Quality Control

I am making this thread due to the apparently large number of people out there who are simply misinformed when it comes to Brand v. Quality and what separates quality audio from garbage audio. Mods, this would make a great sticky.

If you are only interested in making noise and shaking bolts loose on your car this thread is not for you.

Ok, so the first and most important part of any sound track, etc, is format. You can have the most expensive sound system in the world, but if the soundtrack is in the wrong format, you might as well be listening to it in a stock setup. Let me explain:

First you need to know these definitions:

.WAV : Waveform Audio File Format: Uncompressed WAV files using LPCM are the most common form of audio format in terms of quality. An example of where you would hear this form is from any Music CD you actually purchase from the store. These tracks are all pressed in WAV format.

Lossy Codec: Lossy Codec is when you compress a .WAV file into a smaller file in which you lose quality due to the fact that you are simply compressing a large file into a smaller file. Examples would include MP3, WMA, etc. These formats are common due to the fact smaller files are easier to transfer and store.

Lossless Codec: A Lossless Codec is a file system in which files are also compressed, just not nearly as much as a Lossy Codec. When speaking in terms of Car Audio, this form is basically as good as it gets. Examples of this would be FLAC, WavPack, etc. This form is not popular as it take much more file space to store the same file. Therefore increasing transfer/download times and using more space than a Lossy Codec. This system is still not as high in quality as a strictly uncompressed .WAV but it is the answer to having a quality sound in your car without using as much space as an uncompressed WAV and unless you have a high quality output system this is just as good as WAV.


So after reading the above format information, we have concluded that the best format for car audio would be uncompressed WAV, or a WAV using a Lossless Codec such as FLAC. If you have your music in this format you ahead of 99% of people out there.


Important things to know regarding output equipment:

Name Brand (Big Box) does NOT, I repeat NOT, mean you have good equipment.

Bose, Harmon Kardon, are just a couple of popular brands in which people automatically assume they have the best there is.

Now before we even get into speakers, the second most important part of audio output is your processing unit, and the path/energy your audio takes to get to the speakers. I.E (Amps, if needed and your “head unit”.)

A good head unit will give you the ability to control your audio I.E (Equalizer) whether that is digital or manual, either one works. Equalizing your audio, (Bass, mids, highs, fq, etc) is VERY important and varies from music types to personal preference. Second, your head unit has to be able to “PUSH” the music out to the speakers in order to maintain quality. Good head units will come with “built in” amps to help this process. If you are asking a lot of your system, additional amps are sometimes required.

Other devices to help quality would include line conditioners, and capacitors if your output devices are highly demanding.

Speakers and Steup:

Speakers are where all that hard work to just get the music ready to listen to comes into play. Your speakers have to be able to keep up with your quality or your whole setup will be compromised.

Brand: As previously mentioned brand name is a flaw in the audio world. Brands such as Bose, Harmon Kardon, etc are example of overpriced equipment with mediocre quality. The truth is, a 200W speaker is a 200W speaker. What separates the two would be quality of the materials used and how it is put together. Because of this a 200W speaker can cost $25.00, or it can cost $2,500. Point here is DO YOUR RESEARCH before purchasing your equipment.

Balance: Balance is also very important in terms of quality. I can’t tell you how angry it makes me to see some kid driving around in a $5k car with a $5k stereo system, listening to Rap(Not Music), with nothing but BASS hitting your eardrums. Congrats, you just spent $5K to have the worst quality sound possible.

In order to maintain quality you need to balance your speaker setup. 12" speakers in a car are overkill and ruin quality. A good set of 8" subs in tune with the rest of your system is ideal. Again the idea here is not Loudness, it is quality.

Power: Example: You have a 500W system in your car with a 200W head unit.

In order to maximize quality you want to have your output devices, outputting the most it can to the speakers WITHOUT hitting or going over the rated max. In the above case you need to somehow incease your output NO MORE than 300W. If your output power never exceeds the ratings on the speakers, you can listen to high quality music at any loudness without sacrificing quality. If you have a 1000W amp pushing to 500W speakers, you will blow the speakers, and before you get to that point, quality will be severely compromised.

Conclusion: There is a lot more to this than what I posted. This is just to give everyone an idea so when you are talking about your audio system to someone who knows what they are talking about, you aren’t bragging about your Bose sound system, while listening to MP3’s of Eminem, through a 12" subwoofer.

Anyone else who knows what they are talking about feel free to add anything you deem important. Thank you.

awaiting vot to come in and confuse us all . but at least he will understand it

Little bit of “meh” information in there, but for the most part pretty spot on.

I actually played my truck yesterday for the first time since last summer. I was noticing it was blurring my vision standing outside of the truck (considering i only have 1/3 of the subs even being powered) i just really dont enjoy it anymore. Granted, I had a good deal of mid and high range speakers, so its not just overwhelming bass, like most of these kids now a days seem to focus on (I also get a good kick out of kids with a loud sub stage, and are still using the factory speakers - although SOME stock speakers arent bad, the majority are)

Hell…In my daily driver I have an older pioneer h/u and nothing else

So what type of audio file format does Apple use? AAC or something like that? How does that stack up in terms of quality versus mp3, wma?

AAC is Apples MP3 basically. Apple Lossless is Apples FLAC. They are very similar in construction to their counterparts.

Good thread, thanks for sharing this information. :thumb

Apple uses something called ALAC. its exactly like FLAC.

I agree with the info Adam posted. Good info and explained in a simple manner.

Not quite. 300w speakers on a 300w amp can definitely blow. A 300w amp driven to clipping will be more harmful than a clean, unclipped 500-600w amp any day.

You can definitely overpower speakers safely, too. I’ve done it for years. Power ratings are a warranty thing, not a definite. The gain is your friend.

Only pay attention to RMS ratings as well… Peak power is bullshit. Generally, most higher end companies will state it as twice RMS power… in many cheaper brands they will state it as 3x to 4x RMS power. It’s marketing bullshit.

Power: Example: You have a 500W system in your car with a 200W head unit.

In order to maximize quality you want to have your output devices, outputting the most it can to the speakers WITHOUT hitting or going over the rated max. In the above case you need to somehow incease your output NO MORE than 300W. If your output power never exceeds the ratings on the speakers, you can listen to high quality music at any loudness without sacrificing quality. If you have a 1000W amp pushing to 500W speakers, you will blow the speakers, and before you get to that point, quality will be severely compromised.

A little confused about your logic here. Maybe I am just misunderstanding but the way you have it worded, it sounds as if you are figuring it out using a High level input which in MOST cases is the wrong way to go. Low level inputs are normally the best quality because you are not “double amplifying” the signal. In which case you are better off matching the power of the amp to the speakers (keeping in mind 4ohm vs 2 ohm vs ____, and the bridging capabilities of the amp) and leaving the head-unit out of the equation.

I was completely confused by that as well. The wording of the post suggests that a 200w head unit with a 300w amp is 500w… It’s not. It will still be 300w, regardless of the high level input from the head unit. Truth be told, using high level inputs is a severely broken method as the SNR degrades substantially. If you must use it, use it only for subwoofers.

I like that he took the time to make this and I don’t want to be a dick, but the information is hardly spot-on.

The general idea is correct but like he said, there is MUCH MUCH more that a good quality stereo involves. Its actually quite funny he made this, I am currently putting my stereo from my truck into my VW and I was trying to see what I could do to not have the sub overpower everything else. The system consists of:
Pioneer Avic Z2
Kicker 700.5 5-channel amp
Kicker 12" L5 Dual 2ohm.
Eclipse 6.5" rear speakers

Currently thinking about what to do in the front. I would like to go Eclipse components but they are a little pricey for me at the moment.
It is all powered through a Kicker 1/0 power kit with a Tsunami 2F capacitor (not the greatest quality but it helps a little). Also going to be running new grounds from the chassis to the battery, engine to battery, alternator to battery (it probably doesn’t help at all, but I like to throw an extra ground on there). Also replacing the alt. to battery power wire. Twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire will run down the pass. side (less factory wires) and the power is all going down the driver side. I will probably be using the generic kicker ported box for now but will be building a sealed box when I get some time… thinking about POSSIBLY doing a false floor but I’m a little hesitant b/c there is a small leak somewhere back there and I tend to get water in the wheel-well when it rains hard. Not sure on the full plan just yet… just need to get something besides the radio and just front speakers. Its starting to drive me nuts.

Edit: Holy crap… apparently I’m writing a book.

I could talk for hours on car audio. I just have lost the passion I once had. Its a damn shame too, I have a fully built truck that is most likely the loudest thing in the area. Maybe I should bring it to the lower lot one weekend and throw a for sale sign on it, maybe get some of the PR’s to throw in on it

You know, with all the cars I’ve done, I have never truly NEEDED to wire in batteries or large/many capacitors and rewire power and ground cables under the hood with 0 gauge and beef up alternators. If your goal is purely SPL, yea, you would need it. Overall, for a quality sounding setup, there is no real need for that.

Marty, here, knows more about SPL than me, so if you want that kind of advice, totally ask him. I only know a bit about it and did a little work with it but got tired of it really fast.

Its all about voltage man, clean, continuous voltage. Takes power to make power.

The underhood wiring, or more commonly refereed to as “the big 3” is a very common and basic upgrade that is a great starting point to upgrading the system.

I know SQ world-level competitors that have their underhood wiring upgraded, because it cant hurt.

a step up system is bad ass, i just cant swing one. but i definitely want that on tube amps and some rainbows prolly