The idea is to make it the heart of my slowly in-progress, all old school SQ system in my daily driver…it’s so sexy though I may not want to use it:banghead
I also have a BNIB Cerwin Vega Stroker 15…the all time king of subwoofers IMO. These retailed for 1000 back in the day!
The strokers were the shit back in the day. Granted, there are much better subs on the market these days, but they were awesome.
The truck that got me into car audio was the pirate radio truck from CT. I saw it at a DbDrag show at Boomer on central back in…I wanna say 98ish. Had 9 strokers and 36 memphis 1000d’s
As you may know, I also have a 13W7, but given the fact that I am working 7 hours from home, I need spare tire access. The 13W7 (and it’s box) are pretty friggin heavy…so I decided to shelf the 13W7 for now, and go with this. I’m going to put it in a sealed enclosure, and run it off of my 1000/1.
The main question is what to do in my doors…right now i’ve just got the factory speakers replaced with some MTX coaxials. Given the fact that I don’t want to fart around with fabrication, I guess my only choice is to have a reputable shop do the doors (I don’t mind doing the rest of the system).
my W7 12 takes up a lot of room in the ported enclosure i’ve got now. this is partly the reason why im going with a smaller sealed one. the 1000/1 is a great amp, theyre just a bit power hungry, the efficency isnt the best on those, but its still a great sounding amp any way you look at it.
the doors are not a big deal, unless you want to start going higly extensive and start glassing things. you wouldnt really need a shop to do things for you, unless ur completely strapped for time and it’ll be cheaper for you to pay a shop rather than using ur own time. you can use smaller mdf panels like i had in my mitsu and get great sound out of that with some good old dynamat and just solid panels.
my personal preference is to steer people away from coaxials 99% of the time. i think you would be much more pleased with a normal set of components and a sound processor. it doesnt have to be anything super fancy or very expensive either.
if you want to hear my car, let me know and i can meet you sometime(in the lot or whatever) and you can check out how a component set with a pretty good front stage sounds. if it will be something you’ll like i’ll help you build that. it doesnt really take that much effort, its just you need to be kinda anal about some stuff but it really pays off in the end.
i always get positive feedback from people i suggested to go with components setup in a similar method to mine. you dont really have to spend thousands on speakers either, unles you want to go real high end. it’s totally up to you. let me know what your plan is.
you can check out my setup in person and i’ll explain it all to you if u want to, its not a problem at all. it works in it’s simplicity. most people try to jam in as many speakers as possible all over the place, mine is more minimal(im only running 5 speakers) and more about the engineering aspect of it rather than just the shotgun approach.
i havent gotten to building up a car from scratch in a while, so i think if you decide to redesign yours or most of it itll be fun for me to help out on that project.
also, i’ll trade you my 12W7 for your 13 and some cash if u want, if you dont have the room for it. :thumbup
I can do all the work myself if I chose to, I simply don’t feel like messing with it when I can pay someone else to do it. My free time is minimal these days.
for the fronts i really like a 6.5inch mid with a 1 inch tweet. tell me this, how bright do you prefer your highs? mine are actually very bright, its my preference and a lot of people say they can be pretty harsh at higher volumes. im asking this to try and determine what type of tweet would sound nicer to you.
I still have a nice set of soundstream comps I’ll get rid of cheap just to get them the hell outta here haha. They are what I used prior to my sponsorship, and honestly, If I didnt get what I run for free, Id still be running the soundstreams
if you like them bright, a component set with metal tweeters will sound nicer to you. i have titanium ones. silk is rather mild compared to them and ceramics are kind of in the middle. if you have a sound processor, you can always go with a bright set and just turn them down, while still retaining the ability to go back up if u wish. if you go with composite or silk, theyll stay rather mellow and if youd want them to be really bright, there wont be much you could really do. mb quart tends to make rather bright tweeters, its like their distinction. i have a set of Q’s in my car. if you’ll be out tonight, i’ll do my best to get out to the lot and let you hear em and decide.
i think ~50rms will do it just fine. you can go to 100, but it’ll cost more. im not sure what kind of budget youre on.
It’s just a crappy Sony 4 channel, but I am a firm believer that (for the most part), that the human ear cannot distinguish between 2 amps that are not clipping, at the same power level.
However, I may get another Slash series for the hi’s, just to match…
i liked how the oem stuff in the LS460L sounded. that car has a mark levinson setup. its really not bad, just needs a good processor and it’ll be allright. well, maybe ditch that center speaker too, heheheh