youre arguing that a k03 will make 250AWHP though. youre crazy. it wont happen. its impossible, all the turbo is good for is a quick kick in the pants from the torque onset and a little midrange power. the turbine simply cannot keep up with the engines exhaust flow at higher rpms, the wheels and the housings are just too small.
-a k03 has no turbine efficiency when boosted beyond the stock settings(or compressor for that matter)
-the compressor map puts everything to the far left and down towards the bottom(which is great for low end grunt)
heat. thats all the turbo produces at higher boost levels
back pressure. thank the stock 1.97" mk4 downpipe and the 2.17" b5 downpipe, along with the terrible housing design KKK/BW uses for that turbo in all configurations
You are correct. A ko4 will not last long at 250whp.
I also stated this in my very first post.
I would NOT run a ko3 for anything other than stock? Why would you?
The entire point of me posting was to state you should keep your stock power or GO BIG.
1.8 is only good for 300ish WTQ, then you need rods. My whole point is the 1.8 Needs all or nothing, you go big turbo full build or you leave it alone.
There is no point in bolting some pussy ass k04 turbo on there, or any K, S or T series turbo.
You go GT, you go 28r or bigger, you throw rods and pistons at it, fuel, and management. This, and inter cooling is all you need, but it isn’t coming cheap.
But it is still cheaper than going k04 or some APR kit and then doing it right after.
i wouldnt go that far. the newer T series are pretty baller.
the T3/T67DBB is an awesome turbo
the SC62 is nasty
GT turbos are great, but there are other alternatives, like the bullseye power S256/264
the BEP/BW S256 compares to a 3076R and makes great power on the 1.8t.
there is also a newer 50trim floating around with a DBB CHRA that spools and respools like a GT turbo, and makes more up top than a 3071R.
on my k03 setup i went chip, ebay downpipe and a catback. that was it. drove it around for a while and went GT.
fail… you need a “highflow” manifold, uppipe, downpipe, TIP, injectors and then find a k04-20 file… waste of time for 250-270whp… its still a k0-x… this isnt an S4 where you can get away with k03/k04s and be fast
plus the k04-20 makes ALOT of torque, and several people have bent rods/windowed blocks using them
stock rods suck. some people have made close to 400whp, mid 300s torque on stock rods… but why try to be lucky. 400$ plus install for a set of rods is cheap insurance compared to buying a new shortblock.
Well even the newest T series wheel is 30 years old. The GT series is actually ongoing. Sure some of them are 8-10 years old now but some are even newer.
The GT wheels are superior to all the other wheels i mentioned. All the other wheels are still good, but they just aren’t the best anymore.
I wouldn’t kick one to the curb, but if i was spending money on a new turbo, Id have a GT CHRA and a Tial turbine housing with 3 V bands. I wouldn’t really think of anything else.
If I was thinking with my wallet, id have a stock car, oh wait! I DO! Or I would buy some big burly Holset or my old good friend the Schwitzer S series.
the new precision turbos(6262/6265/56/60), and FP custom wheels(HTA) are far superior to even a GT wheel. they are billet, lighter, better more consistant than the cast wheels garrett uses.
I am talking about turbine wheels. You are talking about compressor wheels.
There are advantages to billet wheels. The material is isotropic as well is stronger.
Billet wheels are a solution to VERY high pressures, and fatigue failures when the wheel resonates at stall conditions.
Now if you were an engineer, you would already be moving past billet wheels and you would be interested in
boreless compressor wheel. You can find these on the Garrett GTA57-70 or the bigger holsets.
To be perfectly honest I think the ideal turbo is a Garrett GT turbine wheel, in a Tial turbine housing, with a boreless holset titanium wheel, and Gt ball bearings. The holset has a water cooled COMPRESSOR volute.
well first and foremost, i was never talking about turbine wheels.
and secondly. why dont you look at the sub categories where DBB is a listed option, insteasd of blowing your horn and looking foolish.
edit: tial housing has no real advantage other than being a vband housing(except the weight reduction it has over the castiron housing.) but my supplier has non tial, vband housings for his billet turbo’s he makes using precision wheels.
also, im not going to argue because youll go off on some tangent about a make believe unicorn turbo that would never work on a 1.8t, which afterall is the topic of this thread. so im done with you, mr stock turbo guy.
