roll cage question

Since my last thread somehow isnt on here because I cant seem to find it.

I’m up here at Wyo-Tech and I just acquired a 92 Mustang LX. Since I just started chassis fabrication I’m not sure of which type and size I should go with for my roll cage.Mind you I’m going to put a full roll cage in it because it’s going to be my track car only pretty much. So I was wondering what size piping I should use not to mention what type of metal I should go with. Also, I’m going to be boxing in my A-arms and stuff for a stiffer ride so I was wondering if anyone could share some tips on how to go about that.I need to know this ASAP because I need to order all my tubing and metals soon.Thanks.

http://www.pittspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31575

check post & u will find it,so stop :crying:

i would do 1-3/4 mild steel

http://www.pittspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31560

wow that was hard!:ugh2:

1 5/8 if doint full cage. i don’t like weight so i would go with chromoly if you can TIG weld

i was gonna tell him cromo, but i don’t think they are getting that crazy up at that school.

Nah I wasnt crying like I said I couldn’t find the thread my bad I just need to put my order in soon for my piping is all.

I’m not sure if I will be to good at tig welding for the simple fact that I haven’t done it yet.And as for the chromoly stuff we can do whatever we want its all a factor of time up here and they judge your grade on what you have done not what you tore out or how nice it looks the finished product is what you grade it on.Hell I could tub it if I wanted to but time won’t permit me i’m pretty sure. Thanks for helping me with the sizing of piping I need now my last question I need answered is.

How many feet of piping i’m going to need to do this?

Oh yea hey Tim when are we going to stuff a rear-end underneathe of that Mustang so I can get it up here its going to stay in the garage at school till I take it home I already talked to 1 of my instructors and he loves Mustangs so thats always good news.

I’d just buy a kit and go from there. You’ll still spend a lot of time measuring, cutting, trial-fitting and grinding!

Well I would do that but It’s my project up here at Wyo-Tech like I said they are going to give me credit at school to do it.And I mean whats cooler then passing a class and getting shit done for your own car at the same time? Not to mention it looks better that you do all the work yourself for the simple fact that not to many people have the tools to even do one to try.I’m already a certified mechanic now I’m in fabricating and building stuff from scratch its a good acomplishment and to have a sense of self pride.Everything I do to this Mustang is going to require alot of fabricating.And I already talked to another kid We’re going to stick a roll cage in my car and put frame connecters and boxing the A-Arms. And with my last couple weeks I’m helping a kid put a supercharger kit on his Mach 1 and dyno-tune it we’re shooting for 8psi considering its still pretty stock so my time is going to be streched out thin.

If your paying to go there to school for FAb, shouldn’t they be teaching you how to do all this? Proper sizing, measuring, ect???

yea they are going to but i want a real racers opinions on it

whats your instructors names?

You don’t need “real racers” opinions. You need a rule book for the class you want it to pass. Also you don’t need any pipe, you need tube.

:bigthumb:

Ok I know piping is for pressure and tubing is the most common used in chassis work I’m not dumb thats just what I called it. my instructors are Mike Tom and some other guy I forget his name haha.I’m also learning that I don’t have a very steady hand when it comes to MIG welding so this DEF. isn’t my strong point I can’t wait to TIG weld.I can lay a nice bead down with good penetration but I can’t get my steadying hand to stop shaking I don’t know if it’s because I had major reconstructive surgery on my rotator cuff and I just found out from my motorcycle accident that I tore it again and my ligaments are ripped off my elbow.So it’s either that or something I’m doing wrong.So does anyone have any pointers on how I can steady my hand more?

It may sound like a smart ass comment, but it isn’t meant that way. Use two hands. I’m left handed, so here is how I do it when my hand gets a little shakey, I hold the control part of the stinger with my left hand, control the trigger for wire feed with my middle and index fingers, and with my right hand I hold the nozzle part of the stinger. Not too far up to get burnt, but far enough up to steady everything.

My instructor actually found my problem with my welding today.I wasnt holding the welding gun up high enough so I was getting sloppy control problems now I can weld pretty good actually lets just hope things keep moving along swiftly and I get my degree in automechanics.