Is this somewhere you think you’re going to be for a long time? That would make my decision a lot easier.
Cons are listed more as a general basis. Not just for me. This is more to get feedback on why people choose Copper over Black Iron. Soldering Pipe is “easy.” But, is it worth the extra $300-400 to plum a shop if you don’t need to?
You have to plan just as much for copper as you do with iron; Pitch, Anchors, Drainage port, Breakouts, etc… so what is the real benefit there?
I could also argue that the pre-determined 1" tap length would easily outweigh the copper “cut to length” because you still need the extra 1/2 inch on each end.
You have to de-burr, emery cloth, clean, and flux EVERY solder joint. Then apply heat and sweat the fitting. If you fucked it up you are done. Cut it off and throw it out.
You have to cut, lube, tap, clean, and dope every black pipe connection. If you fuck it up you just loosen and put in another piece.
I can’t NOT ignore taking the more cost effective route and going with black pipe.
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Another very valid point. I suspect I will be gone in 3-5 years. No need to invest that type of scratch. But, I’ve heard people say 30+ years on the Iron Pipe. How valid is that? I’m sure guys on here are working or have worked in shops with probably 50 year old piping without issues.
So, even if I was staying permanent what would stop me form using black pipe?
Good point though Beck.
Copper would be fine but it’s expensive. It’s inert and easily workable so it’s appropriate for things like potable water, analyzer sample lines, small diameter connection points where you need flexibility, etc.
You can use plastic, but it has to be entirely purpose-made components. If you use PVC cemented together fittings you’re just asking to lose an eye when it breaks apart.
For permanent instrument air distribution systems carbon steel is the way to go, which is what “black iron” from a hardware store is. (If it were actually iron it would just break when you tried to thread it.)
I’d run the main header with steel pipe and fittings and make the connection to the compressor (since it probably vibrates and/or gets shifted around a bit) with something flexible like a properly rated hose or loop of copper tubing with compression fittings. Just make sure you secure the ends and support it every 15’ or thereabouts so nobody gets hurt.
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Use black pipe. It’s the right material. Everything else is a compromise for ease of installation.
^ Good information. Thanks Mr. Fry.
The flexible line makes sense. Never even crossed my mind.
Keep in mind PVC does not show up on x-rays. 
why “fuck shark bites” ? Just because of cost?
Not to throw another iron in the fire but I believe PEX can be used. There may be a specialized variant of the PEX for the compressed air option but you won’t find a quicker, easier means of connection. Use standard PEX for plumbing wherever possible.
I vote carbon steel. Rent a pony threader to thread it. It’ll make quick work of it.
Just attach regular air line to the wall, then you can take it with you relatively easily when you leave.
I’m a copper guy myself. 10% off coupon at lowes makes it a little more reasonable. For my it’s easy to cut and sweat together. Anytime I’ve worked with black pipe, it’s almost always been a pita with threading and the fittings.
I did copper here in the house I’m renting, but will be taking it wi me. Once I buy another house and build a real shop like Juiced; Ill prob do the HDPE kits, similar to listed above.
This is a great discussion. I was just wondering what is the best way to do this myself. I just have a 2 car garage, but i want to plumb a line from the back left corner to the front right to make working outside easier, and also run one into the basement, so i can use it in my workshop there if needed.
Shark fittings turn plumbing into floppy, sloppy, lines. I know they are the “bees knees” for a lot of people but honestly I don’t like them. If I had a rotted pipe it can be used to replace a section but I would consider it temporary until I can drain the system and solder in a replacement section. I can see those things failing over time. I’m not sure what their pressure rating is, don’t care to even look, but if I can pull them apart with a little horse shoe tool I can imagine 90 PSI firing that fucker across a room at some point. Threads or an Intermetallic bond is the only way to go. Plastic grippy fingers and an o-ring, not so much.
I was waiting for you to chime in. Your setup is nice. But, you will never be able to use that same setup and you need to cut it to get it out. If anything all your 10(?)ft pieces are now going to be 9’10" when you hack off each elbow/tee. Granted, it won’t cost as much to retrofit into yoru new garage but to me it seems like more trouble. I would think Black Pipe is more flexible for removing and reinstalling.
Also, I’m calling BS that you will take it. I bet you ask for compensation from the landlord and leave it…LOL.
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I see what you did there. PEX is probably a good alternative. But again, it’s not cheap and just to add you need “special tooling” to crimp the rings. Not a big deal, just another point.
Oh, it’s coming with. The Sub-panel I installed in the garage I’m leaving, but the copper air lines are coming with.
True on having shorter pieces, but that’s what unions are for. And you always need short pieces for stubs, corners, condensation traps, etc. So the setup I have with the lengths I have won’t get wasted when I relocate them.
The same issue could be said with black-pipe; the lengths in one garage are not going to be the same for another. Yes, you can reuse the fittings, and probably some of the pipe, but you’ll still end up cutting/threading and buying more for what you need.
My main issue with Black pipe is more that you have to start in one exact spot and build from there. Then once you’re done, if there’s a leak where you started… you have to take EVERYTHING apart to fix the leak at the starting point.
Plus the fact that I never had/don’t have the cutting/threading tools to work with it easily. I have all the tools/equipment for copper lines.
In all reality though, any of the solutions will work just fine; the Aluminum/HDPE kits, Black Pipe, or Copper. It’s all about what you feel comfortable working with and have the tools for (or are willing to spend the $$ on tools for).
It’s like comparing slam pigs from the buffalo area; some are easier to get to A2M, while others are just cost more $$ to get into bed; in the end, they all still work as cum dumpsters.
True. If you plan on how to cut it you can make it easier. I’m not sure cost for new elbows/tees is enough to avoid chopping it up. It just seems like it could be a huge PITA to relocate any piping.
True. You can still also get unions as you mentioned so that may help with “shorter” sections.
You definitely can’t hug walls with Black Pipe as easily as you can with copper. This is where flex hose comes into play for tight areas.
Leaks blow, literally. Dope does make it much harder to get a leak. NEVER use tape.
Tools needed for black pipe include a tri-pod, threader, and a hack-saw as basic tools. The great thing is you can rent an automatic threader for something stupid like $15. Manual kits are $200+. But, if you use standard sizes you won’t need any of them. So yes, it is an investment. But, if you need to run gas lines then you can do both at the same time.
Agreed. It may look like I am pushing Black Pipe. Well, I sort of am. I’ve been checking/asking around and most businesses that I have talked to that are more than 15 years old seem to have Black Pipe. Most “personal” garages I have been in seem have a hose winder right on the compressor or after a few feet of pipe/regulator.
HAhahah, WTF!