After looking into it I’m pretty sure that the TW (water temp) sendor is for the ECU and the coolant temp is just for the gauge. So Im going to try unhooking the gauge sensor and installing the new electric Auto meter one. Think it will be 1/8NPT?
If your ECU Is not getting a temp reading, it will not engage VTEC!!!
One of the checks it does is to make sure coolant temp is @ a certain threshold before it allows VTEC to engage
(the other checks being vehicle speed (>15mph), oil pressure, RPM, TPS)
Might be a pain in the ass at this point, but a good spot to tap for water temp is the bottom of the radiator. In the B-series, coolant flows top->bottom. Also a good spot to tap for a water cooled turbo.
I was responding to the question:
“Does my ECU need to know the coolant temp? If not couldn’t I just use that port?”
The temp reading from the top hose is going to be hotter than if u tap the bottom…I’d think you want temp of the coolant entering the water jacket vs temp leaving.
I left the stock sensors alone, I also added the electric water temp to the lower hose so now I have a reading for both! There is a sensor on the head that is just for the gauge which I could have used but didn’t. And now since I have it Ill just stick the mechanical gauge in my oil pan next oil change, Just for a little more info!
I was supposed to dyno yesterday but this guy failed… Sucks.
[SIZE=2]Instead of just buying a 2.75" to 2.50" reducer I tried coupler on coupler. Let this be an example of what not to do!
Anyway Mike from Innovative still got the car pretty close just street tuning. We started seeing problem when we tried using the boost controller. The pipes hold at 10lbs but started slipping at 12 and over. Probably a good thing in the long run, Im still getting this thing tame at 10lbs! I need to get better quality couplers and a few more T-clamps and try again!
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:tup: :tup: got a ride in this beast over the weekend, it fucking moves, especially for low boost. Can’t wait until you get back and get all the odds and ends worked out.