bell housings are completely different… the ka gears are stronger then the sr …so thats why some people swap the sr bell housing onto the ka tranny tail end… but yea i don’t think it will work man cuz the bell housings are different… so therefore they have different bolts…thanks anyway tho
for anyone that is having trouble finding the sizes of the tranny bolts look here…
bolts to oil pan- M10 AND THREAD PITCH IS 1.5
BOLTS TO BLOCK-M12 AND TREAD PITCH IS 1.75 - look in the fsm to find the lengths of each one… and just phone a local bolt shop for good quality bolts thats what im doing…SB simpson n burlington sells all sorts of good quality bolts…
that being said i still need the size of the pressure plate bolts…does anybody no what the size is?
KA and SR flywheel bolts are not the same. The bolts to hold the transmission to the engine are fairly interchangeable, though they may not fit in the exact same places, they’re all the same thread pitch between most if not all RWD Nissan motors.
i have all that hardware anytime man, give me a shout.
as far as the emissions just pull all the stuff that u dont use that is attached to the shell and for the bolts go to nissan or varun (slippery silvia) he stocks them new or used if u dont want to pay the new price get good condition used ones some bolts u can get from parts source, ct, home depot ie rad support and stupid little things like that.
but strait up man its worth the loot when u get something that will prob last longer then the car itself if i was to snap a let say a Tranny Bolt i would change them all at that time and feel good that they will never need to be done again
the only emission components on an sr20det are the AIV and PCV system
dont get rid of the pcv system. thats dumb. keep it a closed system (that means no open breather filters. plumb the valve cover breather back into the intake. use a catch can if you want.) oh and buy a new pcv valve.
aiv pumps fresh air into the exhaust stream to help light up the cat sooner. most motorsets dont have the aiv valve anymore and i doubt yours does either. (the control valve sits on top of the exhaust manifold and plumbs into the ex. mani)
if you are using an aftermarket exhaust mani you can’t keep the AIV anyway.
i dunno what the hell else you’re referring to
thanks alot guys…so i got my presure plate bolts yesterday, so i decided i would throw the clutch together… i put the flywheel on first…got the alignment tool and got the clutch in the center. So i go to just put the pp on and its so tight against the clutch, i can’t even spin the clutch at all becasue it is squeezed between the flywheel and pp, and its just on there a little bit, because i havn’t even put the pp bolts on yet. What should i do? or is it suppost to be like that? im not sure because this is my first clutch job. any help would be greatly appreciated… oh and it is a exedy clutch and clutchmaster stage II pressure plate…
Dude, I seriously hope you know wtf your doing. Or have someone around that does.
As for your clutch question; the clutch is engaged right now. Once the release bearing presses on the pressure plate it will release the disc from flywheel.
So yes, everything is normal. Torque the bolts to spec with locktite on the flywheel to crank bolts please.
it doesn’t hurt to ask,… ive spent way to much money to mess up now…
I’m just sayin
yea…for anyone looking to do a sr20det swap yourself take at look at this link for you ka24de removal…it is pretty much tells you everything you need to do to remove your ka and it has pictures… http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/do-yourself-section/106753-s13-ka24de-engine-removal.html
UPDATE!!
for the last couple of days i have been takin the ka24de apart and its almost ready to come out…but theres a problem i have a huge hole in the front drivers side…it starts half way on the floor pan and moves about 4 inches up the fire wall…the guy before me tried to fix it and made it worse… heres my idea im going to cut around the whole to take off any rust thats left, and then rust proof it(tar,paint…etc…) then im going to take a piece of sheet metal and bend it to fit, get some sort of cocking to put on the perimeter of the hole. through the new metal on and pop alot of rivets in it. then im going to seal it again from the bottom with some(tar, paint, etc.) And then im going to go under the car and fibreglass around the bottom of the hole just to seal everything back up again…yet again paint and seal it lol. so does will this be strong enough if done like this? any help would be great thx guys…
pictures
BTW, for anyone who says that Fastenal or Brafasco are a last resort for bolts, you are greatly mis-informed.
The bolts that Nissan are going to give you are misc. shop bolts that are usually grade 5 or maybe grade 6.
Fastenal and Brafasco carry grade 10-12 in stock all the time.
Don’t bash them because they have the dealership vastly beat when it comes to hardware.
Dude…that is really bad. flex mess right there, i’d find another chassis.
I would find a welder…
some people fix things, some people throw things awaY
hey, i dont know if u still need the oem bolts, but if u do, best bet is to PM ARC240 (his engine build has only new bolts. hes nuts liek taht…
anyways, u got some pics!!?
So you did that work to the motor and then put a OEM HG?? Arn’t they poop?
im not gettin another chasis…im just going to fix it…and i used a oem headgasket because im not going above 300 hp. and i will get some pics latr
call Draggone for welding work