Pretty sure I am getting a '96 Outback with 100k, with 5 speed and the 2.2L motor. Anyone have much info on these motors? I know they are only like 130hp/140 ft-lbs tq… Is there room to add some pep without dropping much coin? Not looking to make it fast, just don’t want it to be anemic.
Also, any common problems I should look for?
I know the 2.2 has a strong track record of beig strong and running for a long time. Also, does anyone know of common problems I should look for with the 5-speed tranny in '96 Outbacks.
the one we just picked up for rallycross has like 280K on the clock, motor is still running, not pretty, or quiet… the tranny is dead though, only gear that holds really is first and fifth. Should last you a while I would imagine
I dunno how much it would cost but i know the 2.5 guys throw the 2.2 heads on their motors to up the CR. you could probably find a 2.5 bottom end cheap and throw it in, i’m sure that will add pleanty of pep. but while i doubt your looking for such an extensive project, it would be a cool DD.
my 95 impreza sports the 2.2 and it is right around 170k and runs smooth. I don’t mind the acceleration, just can’t pass worth shit is all. Put a cold air intake and an exhaust on like any engine and that should help. Just don’t waist money on it if this isn’t your only car.
So it sounds like the motor is great stock, and not much you can do. But also is very durable and will likely serve my needs as a DD for quite some time?
Now, '96 outbacks. What are the problem areas? Do they eat wheelbearings? CV Joints? Any prone rust areas that will be more than a cosmetic issue that I should be aware of before going in?
on my 95 legacy, I have problems with rust (bottom of the doors, rear quarter by the bumper, and the gas tank door) the underside of the car is in perfect condition except for a noise heat sheild(yet to be fixed).
I recently replaced the cats, exhaust(cats back), oil pan(rust), valve cover gasket.
I bought the car in the fall with 180,000 for $1500 and it now has 190,000
Good deal. Nowhere in particular that are major structural rust problems? Like on DSMs how the front strut towers rust through and ruin the structural integrity of the car.
Also, see you are from Rutland, I am moving up there next summer.
I have a 97 Legacy that I abuse…
I bought it with about 165k and according to the records, before I bought it, a couple wheel bearings and calipers were replaced, the shocks, and the headgaskets (but I think that’s just a 2.5 thing). I’ve had it for almost 10k miles now and haven’t had anything go bad other than a cracked windshield and 2 CV boots (which I clearly deserved). No rust problems.
that’s all I can say really… also you should remove your front bumper, and give it to me
they have wheel bearing problems. but the thing is to make sure when they are replaced to have them filled with grease regardless of what the tech manual says.
On my old sedan the gas filler neck rotted out b/c there’s a shield that traps dirt and water right up against it. I don’t know if the wagons are the same way, but you might want to check it.
Also, on 96 subaru’s, you don’t need to have any readiness flags set to pass inspection as they clear everytime the ignition is turned off. FYI
So I will be getting the car. It is anemic power-wise. I test drove it yesterday and the thing at full throttle feels like my MR2 at 1/4 throttle, but it is very clean. Next to no rust at all. Cold weather package with heated seats, mirrors and windshielf washer nozzles. New clutch and timing belt.
Should be a good reliable DD that will be able to go thru anything with 7.3 inches of ground clearance.
One thing that will take getting used to is having a car that runs silently, and driving a stock clutch. It’s so soft and releases so high off the floor. I am the horrible at driving it because it has no feedback or feel.
