Ok, I’ve been googling up and down all morning, and other than broken Aussie gibberish, no real information.
Apparently it is somewhat common practice to swap out the ceramic wheel from a T28 for a steel wheel, then boost it to the sky.
Anyone have any info on this? Like is there a bolt on wheel that you just get swapped?
1 BAR is just not going to cut it.
Little bits of compressor coming out the pipes … c’mon it’s not a rotary!
Well the compressor stops being efficient above that anyways dude, you’ll be blowing really really hot air afterwards and its not worth it.
Ya you think that 15-16lbs is pushing the top eh?
yea dude these turbos hate their life above that and we really havent seen much HP gain above that either.
but you know what
we should build a car, s13 SR stock with just fmic and full exhaust and aem EMS with boost control with s15 turbo
10psi
12psi
14psi
16psi
18psi
20psi
see how much hp and what the intake temps go to. beat it daily at 18psi and if its fine then who knows maybe throw all that hteory in teh trash you know? but i bet from 16-18 you’ll find about 4-5hp more (it should be closer to 15-20) simply because hte intake air temps go up so much. Who knows.
that is a good idea, I was almost tempted to do that but ya know, I can not afford to fry things,
Ill dyno 8-10-12-14-15-16 but nothing over that,
I do not want to risk it
Well, this isn’t a S14/15 T28,
it’s a GTS-t R33 turbo.
It’s like a Garrett T28 in size, but it is actually a Hitachi (?) - the
45V1
It’s getting a bit confusing, because everything I find about them contradicts the other.
It’s a bolt on for an FJ and will wring out 300whp at 14psi.
Full boost 2,200 - 8,000 rpm
But apparently anything over 1 BAR for prolonged periods of time will shatter the wheel.
I’d rather trade off a bit of spool for more longevity.
18-20 may be a bit out of the efficieincy range, but to me it looks pretty much on the edge of it’s range (2.2 pressure … 17.3 psi)
If it is in any way similar to a T28.
Damnit, I’m more lost than when I started.
Ah hell, I’ll just bolt it up and see how it goes.
Then I find posts like this that sound sure
“thats a GTR turbo for sure.
the a/r is similar to CA t25, which sucks.
Only turbo from stock skylines thats really nice is one version from the r33 rb25det (45V1), its ballbearing t3. 1.4bar max.”
Now, do you think he meant 14 psi and not 1.4 bar?
It is ballbearing, and it is a T3 flange … grrr
hehe just get a 2871
thats a sweet spoool though
and to know how efficient it is you need to figure out how much air the engine is gonna be digesting at 17pounds, if its not much then the turbo will be efficient. but obviously the more the better 
Heh …
well, I’m not going to worry about big boosting the FJ until it’s been torn down and completely built from the ground up.
Well, 1 BAR out of this turbo to an FJ is not “big boosting”
T3/4 at that same level will hit over 400whp.
600 hp is tempting, but I don’t want to have to drive it. I’ve seen Ben D’s dyno sheet (583 whp).
Once he hits boost, the power climbs exponentially from 80 whp up. He just tries to stay out of boost on the street.
The FJ is very air-injesty. Puts even 6 cylinders to shame. I’d be more technical and stuff, but I’m too fried right now to get into it, suffice to say it flows EXTREMELY well.
Then add the NISMO cams (trying to figure out the lift conversion, but duration is over 300 on the exhaust side), slight bump in C/R, 450 injectors, plus a full tune, I think it should hit the 300 whp mark in this variation.
I did the smart thing and trolled some Aussie Skyline forums and a bunch of guys there are running 16 psi through these turbos for years with no problems.
But they seem to be of the mindset that the wheels are not interchangeable, it is the center section that has to be switched out, and the housings ported to fit.
F*ck that.
So I figure if I set it for 1 BAR, that gives me a bit of breathing room in case of some creep/spike.
“Only turbo from stock skylines thats really nice is one version from the r33 rb25det (45V1), its ballbearing t3. 1.4bar max.”
damn… i remember bidding on that turbo on ebay, i lost the bid by like $15… i was so pissed.
Birdhouse …
If you want one, I can get more. Let me know.
I know exactly what turbo you’re talking about.
I believe there were 2 types of turbos fitted onto R33 RB25’s.
Looks almost identical to a t28, but has a t3 flange.
One was rare and could boost like a mofo (the ballbearing steel wheel one), and the other was that ceremic wheel.
I’ll try dig up the info I had on them.
Matty and I have spoke a few times in regards to the S14 Turbo’s and trying to figure out which one has the Steel Wheel and which has the Ceramic Wheel but I gave up along time ago… LOL
Have you put any thought into sending the turbo to cherry turbo’s and having the stock wheel replaced with either a steel or titanium wheel ?
^^^
It more than likely could be done. But the more I’ve looked into it, the cost of changing the wheel, rebalancing and any machine work + the cost of the turbo in the first place, you’d be better off just buying a GT28.
In the case of the R33 … it’s not even a Garett turbo, it’s a Hitachi, so it may be harder (more expensive) to track down a suitable wheel.
They all have ceramic exhaust wheels. The R33 turbos came in series 1 and series 2 configuration.
Series 1 had a steel compressor wheel, ceramic turbine
Series 2 had a plastic compressor wheel, ceramic turbine
The plastic one spools like a mofo, but apparently can’t take the heat of serious boosting.
The R33 turbos are cast as “Nissan” turbos. The 45V1 is the series 1 and 45V2 is the series 2.