The AUTOMOTIVE Winter Project Thread

[quote=“Onyx Z32"”]

On the list:

  • 60k Maint. (including timing belt)
  • UD Pulleys
  • Clean K&N Filters (see pic below yuck)
  • 1 piece drive shaft
  • Spark Plugs (about time, lol)
  • Fuel Filter
  • Steering rack bushings
  • HICAS eliminator
  • Subframe spacers
  • Misc. lines and gaskets that could use replacing
  • New front calipers
  • Oil change

Let the fun begin :tup:

[/quote]

Why a 1 piece driveshaft? I heard many problems with going from a 2 piece unit to a 1 piece. Kinda makes sense when you think it was probably designed that way to elminate excessive vibration. I need a new center u-joint for my 2 piece unit, which I thought about just replacing with a one piece unit. It seems everything I read about people that have done it have vibration issues.

I’ll be busy this winter…

Sell 02 Trans Am and make a profit…
Sell the Stroked 406 from the 84 TA (already have a buyer)
Continue building the new block I have with a fully forged low CR big cubes & stroked motor to throw boost at, so 10s can be old news :snky:

And enjoy driving my camry for a few months :tup:

headers
full bolt ons
run 11.5s

[quote=“POOPRA,post:41,topic:37948"”]

Why a 1 piece driveshaft? I heard many problems with going from a 2 piece unit to a 1 piece. Kinda makes sense when you think it was probably designed that way to elminate excessive vibration. I need a new center u-joint for my 2 piece unit, which I thought about just replacing with a one piece unit. It seems everything I read about people that have done it have vibration issues.

[/quote]

Maybe in Supras :slight_smile:

I’m willing to bet that the vibration issues have more to do with improper balancing of the after market driveshaft than the removal of the center joint.

There are driveshafts available for the Z that have dampeners built on the end to compensate for any lack of balancing. And they still cost less than replacing the factory driveshaft with another factory driveshaft since, on a Z, the center u-joint can’t be rebuilt.

Not to mention it’s been debated that a 1 piece driveshaft reduces some drivetrain loss. But That doesn’t matter to me. I just need to replace my 15 year old, starting-to-“slop”-under-the-power driveshaft. And I haven’t heard any negative impressions of a 1 piece driveshaft on a Z since they first came out several years ago.

camaro:

swap everything between both the z’s
finish rest of chassis/suspension
mock up(maybe install) charger parts

tahoe:

new front leather
maybe get the axles ready for next years swap

[quote=“Onyx Z32,post:44,topic:37948"”]

Maybe in Supras :slight_smile:

I’m willing to bet that the vibration issues have more to do with improper balancing of the after market driveshaft than the removal of the center joint.

There are driveshafts available for the Z that have dampeners built on the end to compensate for any lack of balancing. And they still cost less than replacing the factory driveshaft with another factory driveshaft since, on a Z, the center u-joint can’t be rebuilt.

Not to mention it’s been debated that a 1 piece driveshaft reduces some drivetrain loss. But That doesn’t matter to me. I just need to replace my 15 year old, starting-to-“slop”-under-the-power driveshaft. And I haven’t heard any negative impressions of a 1 piece driveshaft on a Z since they first came out several years ago.

[/quote]

Who makes the 1 piece units for Zs?

OOooo I love these threads.

97 Grand Prix GT:

*More Weight Reduction
*Stock front rotor and caliper brackets so I can fit smaller 15" rims
*Buy slicks for the 15" rims
*Leave current setup alone
*Start Fabbing a crossover pipe to mount a turbo (spare time since I still dont know if I want to go that route)
*Maybe remove plastic ground fx and grind/cut out all the rotted metal and repair. reinstall plasics
*Design my oil seperator assem system for PCV. (probably just use a air compressor unit)
*Figure out how to get better traction
*Run DEEP 11’s with 1.6 60’s or sell the car to a 17yo kid that’ll total it for me.

78 Malibu Wagon:

*Keep running through winter (its a friggen tank)
*Find/Rebuild a TH350,TH700R4, or even a TH200R4
*Install the ported “ram’s horns” exhaust manifolds (headers are shot)
*Fab up a better exhaust system that tucks better than the exh. that is only 2"-4" off the ground.
*Pull the heads off the engine (400ci. sbc) maybe hate myself and buy some better flowing heads.
*Hate myself more, and get a mild (torquey) cam.
For the love of GOD get a GM 7.5" limited slip rear with some 3.55 or something better than the 2.4 or whatever it is. MAN, I’m glad I have that 400 in there because the acc. of that thing used to match that of a Geo Metro with the 305.
*Stip the body down repair and paint
*slooooooooowly keep restoring the ol tank.

Almost forgot…*Get a friggen 650 or 750cfm Holley to replace this weee lil 600 4160 carb. lil fella

[quote=“POOPRA,post:46,topic:37948"”]

Who makes the 1 piece units for Zs?

[/quote]

Z1 makes the one I’m buying - Click HERE

[quote=“Onyx Z32,post:44,topic:37948"”]

Maybe in Supras :slight_smile:

I’m willing to bet that the vibration issues have more to do with improper balancing of the after market driveshaft than the removal of the center joint.

There are driveshafts available for the Z that have dampeners built on the end to compensate for any lack of balancing. And they still cost less than replacing the factory driveshaft with another factory driveshaft since, on a Z, the center u-joint can’t be rebuilt.

Not to mention it’s been debated that a 1 piece driveshaft reduces some drivetrain loss. But That doesn’t matter to me. I just need to replace my 15 year old, starting-to-“slop”-under-the-power driveshaft. And I haven’t heard any negative impressions of a 1 piece driveshaft on a Z since they first came out several years ago.

[/quote]

ughh, i had terrible vibrations on my Z. For the longest time, me and my father were baffled, then we finally figured it out. Then I remembered that you could buy the 1-piece aluminums online.

Instead, we found a place that makes driveshafts, and went that route. They did the job for ~250-300 bucks. It made a WORLD of difference, the car felt much more crisp and snappy afterwards.

house:
finish and move in

94 civic:
b18 swap
boost if i have time

90 civic:
sell

I got $10 on less than 50% of the things in this thread come to fruition :smiley:

well that z1 unit looks nice, I guess ill do some more research because I really need to replace mine too.

[quote=“chino,post:51,topic:37948"”]

I got $10 on less than 50% of the things in this thread come to fruition :smiley:

[/quote]

Hey, Captain Obvious called you’re stealing his lines.

I’m gonna wait till spring to make any decisions about my car. I’m sure I’ll be working on other people’s cars enough to keep me busy.

[quote=“POOPRA,post:52,topic:37948"”]

well that z1 unit looks nice, I guess ill do some more research because I really need to replace mine too.

[/quote]

Keep it to PMs please. :poke:

x…

[quote=“POOPRA,post:52,topic:37948"”]

well that z1 unit looks nice, I guess ill do some more research because I really need to replace mine too.

[/quote]

I used a Z1 made driveshaft on my Non-turbo Z and it was perfect. The model I had didn’t even have the dampener on it. No vibration at all.

saturn:
install engine oil cooler for track day
install engine and trans temp gauges
purchase 8" rims for saturn for trackday
have fun in a reliable track car

SHO:
dyno car
purchase prototype parts from popular SHO vendor
dyno car
install rebuilt transmission (asummng)
remove all turbo pipes and send them away for duplication
buy real drag slicks
hook up NO2 (already purchased)
raise boost to 15psi spray 75 shot and run a couple 11 second passes.
post 94 SHO for sale needs engine and transmission… includes fastest 1/4 mile taurus in the world plaque

fix my oil leak from the bedplate
replace worn motor mount with my solid one
“maybe” fix some bad paint areas
up the jets from 75 to 150

Civic:

solid rear supension
solid motor mounts
gt42r <–maybe
4"dp
3"intercooler pipes
Make catch can
LSD
6 point
Stage 5 axles and hubs
26 slicks
Tune for 28-32psi on c16

:walter:

well shit, as far as the house modding goes:

finish the other half of the bsmt (drywall, electric, droptile ceiling)
paint 4 rooms & a stairway
swap two light fixtures for ceiling fans
demo & rebuild upstrs bathroom (maybe…)
finish garage (string more 110, some 220; insulate; rafter decking for storage; install (5) lights; throw up some pegboard; build workbench & perm shelving; paint floor)
start planning out kitchen remodel

:lol:

:frowning:

Guys, this thread is in Gen Auto - not OT. I need to replace my bathtub, but I hope no one here cares…

garage is directly related to gen auto :wink: