…what if I already bought a new ECU (re-capped) w/ DSM link, GM MAF, MAF-T, Profec-B Spec II, and the harnesses etc. to go with that? And I have a deal lined up on an Evo III mani/o2, big 16g, 550cc’s, and AFPR. Now to source a good FMIC setup and fuel pump. The question is do I bother w/ cams or not? Of course I’ll need to dump a new clutch in it too. But then the “power” side of things is done.
255lph fuel pump should do you fine, I had the ACT 2600lb clutch in mine and fucking loved it. Might be something better out on the market now though… been out of that loop for quite some time now. :hs:
as far as the cams are concerned, you could do it if you like, but I would imagine if you’re only running a 16G it’s probably overkill. All of the shit you have listed should get you to ~400hp. Would also recommend some ARP heads studs and a good head gasket to handle the 20psi + you’ll be pushing.
Twin disk is the only way to go. expensive but you will never ever ever regret it. prob never haave to worry about changing either. I run the quartermaster and love it. power train technologies is another great choice. sty away from exedy especially used there was a mixup in disks early on that wore out the splines in the hubs
Word. I plan to keep boost a little bit on the moderate/safe side, but ARPs and a good head gasket are in the plans now too. Ah, you have to love the snow-ball that is modding cars.
Standard arps are no better than stock 6 bolt head bolts. they stretch just as easily but allow slightly higher torquing and even clamping due to the stud vs the bolt.
If you’re going to do it right get L19 studs from arp or buy the magnus/a1 studs that are also available.
Don’t wste money on crap. l19s with oem composite gasket + oring is the best option.
Do I really need to oring for a DD type car. I don’t mind keeping the boost lower than the 20+ mike suggested. How far can you go (boost wise) on L19s, OEM composite gasket (is there a part # I need to look for) but no orings?
L19s and oem I the only thing I recommend anymore. oring only if you’re looking for lots of power. I just mentioned what the BEST thing for these cas was.
Just as an fyi I run 29psi on my 70mm with the oring combo no knock on 93 octane…afr is still 10.9:1 with room to go. that’s an 88lb/min capible turbo.
What about all the millions of dsmers running arps and a stock MLS or aftermarket headgasket pumping round-about 30psi thru the motor knocking and running lean as fuck afrs and all hell …and they have no trouble with hg/studs. Hes not trying to run 7’s theres no need for a oringed block and l19s yet.
Not trying to start any pittspeed shit I just think thats overkill IMO.
That goes for a twin disk too. What the heck he hasnt said anything about plans to go that high. Darkstar is right a nice ACT 2600 or 2900 with street disk and you will never regret that.
I don’t care about millions ou there who later try and explain coolant bubbles down the road. I also don’t care about what you think works or doesn’t. He asked I said a bulletproof setup. ovrkill? MAYBE but I’ve done ths for 10 years. I know what I’ve had to go back and fix and spend MORE money on trying to fix shit laIve even done big builds and went back and replaced stuff that was “supposed” to be perfect with even better stuff.
I’ve run or raced single 2100, 2600, 2900, carbon twin and metallic twin. the carbon twin is perfect for him.
Do it right or don’t do it at all /thread. I hate the budget dsmer mentality.
the only headgasket anyone should even think about is the full grommet style from power enterprise or Apex-i. power enterprise has one for the evo I-III. here is more info on it.
it’s what we have run in everyone of our motors for the last 2 years, run them in our modified car making somewhere around 1400HP, and have zero headgasket issues.
thats because no one is smart enough to. ask brent how many head gaskets he goes through. he was showing us, saying, “tried this one from cometic, junk, this one from felpro, junk, bought this one down the street at the auto parts store, junk. the only one that has come close to holding for me is the mitsu multi layer.” we just kind of shook our heads. we’ve run 60 PSI from a GT4788R through one of these gaskets and holds just fine.
Thanks for all the input/advice everybody. I think I’ll start w/ the maintenance stuff, and give the car a complete once-over. I’ll test/replace the ICS and the wiring for it, then once I’m sure they’re good I’ll put the new ECU w/ DSM link in. That way I can drive the car a bit and find the other problems it’ll surely have, haha.
Keep the advice coming! Next big question: to cam it or not? Are later 4G63t cams worth the effort?
Oh, and I just scored a new slowboy Walbro 255lph setup cheap.
werd. The Galant will NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER be faster than the Vette. He fell in love with “my” talon, and wants to recreate that for himself. It’s kinda cute actually. In that “I’m from California and our idea of a man’s night out is blowing each other on the back porch instead of on the bean bag chairs” kinda way.
I’ve never heard of an ISC frying an ECU, and I can’t understand how it would happen.
But, that’s irrelevant now, nice buy!
I think the most aggressive cams were the 93-94 stuff. You’re better off going something like HKS 264/272 or so (FP1/Comp equivalent, whatever you can find form some place reputable.) I know AMS did a cam test way back when. I think they made the most power on 264/272 on a small turbo.