Pin 14 TPS signal on theTCM. Check it for 0.5v when hot.
since i’m an assclown and you seem to be right on top of the subject, YOU FIX IT.
you say his car is at our shop right now? it hasn’t been here for a long time dude. get your story straight before you even consider ripping on a shop about a situation you seem to know next to nothing about. you might know his name, but it seems that’s about it…
you might work for nissan, but don’t think that gives you the right to chime in with your false assumptions about us.
our conclusion: hacked up harness is the issue.
if you don’t like it, and if steve doesn’t agree, that’s not our problem.
thanks.
The only problem I have, is you can swap the harness and not fix it. We all have to learn sometime. The Factory service manual gives you a breakdown on how the system works, then the wiring diagram and schematic. Thats were you want to start with all your problems cause it gives you a break down on the system works and what sensors it uses and for what. This is where you’ll trace/find your problem. Use the FSM and you shouldn’t have much problems in the future, not saying your going to be some crazy tech who can fix anything because we all get stuck but it will help a lot. Don’t give up on the car, you give up and you lose.
smurf, thanks for actually being polite this time around…
matt, dan, and marc went through the schematic in the fsm. i swapped the tcu.
i’m quite sure that marc tested the pinout you mentioned and if i remember correctly, it read 0.5V.
if you were to look at the harness, you’d immediately see that it has been tampered with before and the issue isn’t a new one.
yes, you’re right. we do all have to learn sometime. hell, i learn something new every day. but in this case, it would take more time than to just swap a harness, and it would be at steve’s greater expense (which i don’t think he’d prefer).
and since everyone agrees it’s a harness issue, he should be posting up a WTB for a new harness and not a TCU… or just going ahead and doing a 5-speed swap.
this all basically boils down to what prodigy (marc) previously stated:
It was quite obvious to me that this car had some serious issues with the transmission long ago, which were partially remedied by someone splicing in pieces of a new harness. As you might imagine, this makes simple multimeter continuity testing (or “proper diagnostics” as you call it) quite difficult, as continuity can no longer be assumed. It’s quite difficult to tell where the harness has been spliced in and where it simply leads to dead ends. Now, we could always rip the whole harness out and “parts swap” a new one in, since according to you that’s all these guys are good at, but that would be both foolhardy and ludicrously expensive.
now it’s all up to steve…
part it