Okay this is really annoying, i could be enjoying my drive, when i pull up at a red light, and then the light turns green, and shit the gear dosent want to go to first no matter how hard i try, it seems to push back, i tried everything it works well in the neutral positions, like it normally does, but resists to go in 1,2,3,4,5,R, even when i try a combo of releasing the cluth and trying again, happened to me twice the same night yesterday, is this the comming of a burnt clutch or a Gay gone tranny?, i’m not sure bout the clutch because it didnt grind, just as if the car suddenly descided Oh F## Off i’m not moving another inch. I think tranny is going!!!
okay i went for a drive today on my way to get some stuff for my work, and i noticed same thing, ONLY when i come to a stop, put the gear in neutral, and then press the clutch again and try to put it in 1st gear it dosen’t want to then i quickly have to try if it will go in another gear, if it does then i quickly put it in 1st, and drive off, if that dosen’t work i have to release the clutch and press it and rev the engine slightly and the stick goes in first smoothly and slugishly,depends, so to see if the tranny was gone, i pulled it hard and no problem the gears are like butter, however this happens every time i stop and try to use 1,2,3,4,5 again.on the odd occasion if the car is rolling it will go in 1st.
Parking it in the garage, i also ended up grinding the Reverse gear, so to me that confiremed it was the clutch that is gone, but my car does have THE disease(popping out of 5th gear), so i’m not sure it could be either.
Hanzzz if you get to read this try to tell me whats wrong, i will check again tomorrow before i go to my mechanic to get my wallet raped.
Try adjusting your clutch cable then.
My car used to do what you’re saying only thing is that it was when the car got warm/hot from driving for a while. I bleed the brakes and the problem went away but I realized there were a few things that could fix this.
When the car got warm, the clutch fork would ‘flex’ a little more than normal. The air in the clutch line would expand and not allow me to depress the clutch to the right position to disengage the clutch.
I opened up the hood, and tested the clutch arm, it seems to have slack, i’ll try fixing that tomorrow. If thats not the problem…
About the Fork and flex, i don’t know if my clutch is alowing for correct depression, but the clutch seems to depress all the way fine, though it has gone softer, now i can’t be 100% sure maby my foot is used to it, but i turned the car off, and then tryed going through the gears, and surprisingly, the gears are way smoother than first time i bought it,and they do go in every gear over and over again with no effort.
there’s nothing wrong with the gear box, your clutch just isnt disengaging all the way. there shouldnt be slack in the clutch cable but there should be a small amount of play. i dont know what would cause this, but i doubt it is the fork. the FWD clutch fork setup is very different from the RWD one on nissans.
you’ve got the right idea, just adjust the cable for now, see if it solves your problem.
I couldn’t reach the cable arm under the hood, but i think it just has little play, though having this problem in the last few days iv’e noticed when the car gets hot, in day time, like today while i drove to down town for work, with my office dress shoes it was a bit harder to use the clutch but i really did feel the heat having something to do with this, my car was hot because of the afternoon heat, and i could feel my clutch grinding when pushed alllll the way back, and the 1st gear felt like it was sticking, also been noticing burnt smell, but very rare almost not enough to notice otherwise.
I did some research that the OEM B13 cluthes are very OEM, i.e they really can’t withstand any happy foot, and that they usually go around 130,000km which is the exact milage i have now.
I guess i’ll have to beat it out till i can get it fixed just spent from the B13 savings,lol, for parts ordered online.
I’m thinking now, just to save money so i can make a sr20VE and VE tranny drop same time, i really dont want to mod the GA anymore and then have to redo that again with the VE.
So i might just lower the car, do interior assesories, fix the body up, slap on the supension, till i can do the big swap.
I heard even that CENTERFORCE clutches for B13 get killed easily, and that ACT is the best. It’s all because i think the stock tranny wears the parts out too fast not that those companies suck at making cluthes.
Just a note. Most VE’s came with a CVT tranny so unless you have all the associated hardware and accessories, a VE tranny isn’t feasible. SR16VE close ratio trannies are hard to come by as well. I’d stick with a regular DE tranny if I were you.