yeah if you’re gonna attemp something like that then you’re better off just either buying something turbod or pullin the motor from the rare turbo sunfires and using that.
i hate when people say “oh it’s a t3/t4” oooo that’s cool so you have a t3 compressor cover on a t4 exhaust side hooray for you what are the wheel sizes… “wheel sizes? it’s a t3/t4” :rolleyes: :rolleyes: you can get a billion combinations of t series wheels put in those 2 housings from a 250hp turbo to a 800hp turbo.
Originally posted by BlueMeanieTSi yeah if you’re gonna attemp something like that then you’re better off just either buying something turbod or pullin the motor from the rare turbo sunfires and using that.
i hate when people say “oh it’s a t3/t4” oooo that’s cool so you have a t3 compressor cover on a t4 exhaust side hooray for you what are the wheel sizes… “wheel sizes? it’s a t3/t4” :rolleyes: :rolleyes: you can get a billion combinations of t series wheels put in those 2 housings from a 250hp turbo to a 800hp turbo.
good point about wheel sizes,I like to act dumb, and keep my impeller trim a secret;) :naughty:
Originally posted by BlueMeanieTSi yeah if you’re gonna attemp something like that then you’re better off just either buying something turbod or pullin the motor from the rare turbo sunfires and using that.
i hate when people say “oh it’s a t3/t4” oooo that’s cool so you have a t3 compressor cover on a t4 exhaust side hooray for you what are the wheel sizes… “wheel sizes? it’s a t3/t4” :rolleyes: :rolleyes: you can get a billion combinations of t series wheels put in those 2 housings from a 250hp turbo to a 800hp turbo.
Thats probably the biggest thing i dont understand is the wheel size on the turbos, how are they measured and what do the different sizes do?
Originally posted by 97GrandAMLD9 Thats probably the biggest thing i dont understand is the wheel size on the turbos, how are they measured and what do the different sizes do?
It’s not just wheel size. Compressor impellers and turbine wheels are trimmed to different contors (TRIM), wich determine the flow range. Each trim has a letter or number to ID it…Example T04B,S-4 trim…Start looking at some maps to see what works for your plans. The real trick is match’n the turbo to your engines power band. Most people skip that part or have no clue about matching the turbo to there motor
Originally posted by 97GrandAMLD9 Can someone explain this to me
The numbers on the left is the pressure ratio. that is how much pressure that “trim” compressor can run. the scal is basicly in Bar. so one bar is about 14.7 psi. but, right now you are breating in 1 bar of pressure… so most people look at the compressor perfomance at 2 bar. that means… whlie the turbo is spooling, you are looking at the range of 14 to 15 psi being fed into the motor.
the grid in the middle is the compressor efficaintcy. (sorry, can’t spell) the closer you can stay in the center loop… the cooler the compressed air charge will be. but you will be perfectly safe going the entire way to the right of the graph. If you go off the graph… the compressor just turns into a heat source, and we all know that hot air does not make HP. and in this case… it will just melt your pistons or cause uncontrolable detonation and bend your rods.
the botom of the graph is how much air it can put out. so you will have to calculate your engines air consumption at or near your red-line.
after you figure that out, all you have to do is draw a line on the X axis for your air… then draw a line on the Y axis for how much boost you want to run… and see if they intersect in that graph. If they do… you can run that compressor. if they don’t… pick one that they will.
once you find the compressor you like… then you have to choose a turbine that will work with your engine. (the exauhst side) this is both the wheel and housing. then you have to figure out what AR ratios you want your housings to be. that will dictate how fast your turbo will spool.
just an FYI. I run a streight T3. my compressor is a super 60 trim wheel stuffed into a cut Nissan 300ZX housing with a .62 AR. My turbine is a stage 2 wheel using a Ford t-bird housing with an AR of .48.
My turbo spools very slow compared to a turbo on a factory car… but, I can make 11 psi the entire way up to 8200 RPM without the compressor falling out of efficancy, or running out of air. most factory turbos will run out of breath around 5000 rpm. (boost will drop off) but they will spool just off of idle. Hell… while I was over at keystone last sat… I heard WRX BOV’s popping just while they were moving up in line getting ready to stage. I can’t get my BOV to make nose unless I’m reving my engine up to its re-line while out of gear.
But you have a lot of reading to do. you still have to address your fuel and timming problems after you select your turbo.
But boost is a drug… once you have it… you will never be without it. I turboed my truck when I was 17. the turbo was removed for a superchager. along the way, I had multiple turbo dune buggies… and now I’m 32, and I just started the turbo honda late last fall.