probably will have something of that nature. knowing my luck id let off early and get a 14.00000000001
whats wong with a titty in the mouth??
i might run TnT next week same set up with better traction i hope, and cooler temps so maybe ill get a good run in
not much. and the nitrous bashers are just scared of it.
yea hopefully those new tires will help ya out too
haha word!
yea he really shouldnt be hitting boost
shoulnt be drivin it, he should sign the car over to me lol…did i say that??
i just got a set of Dunlop SP 9000’s that are almost brand new from yfz460. they are going on in the front, fronts to the back… eventually. i need to keep it part throttle through first and then whack it in 2nd then it goes pretty well. if i do PT in 1st i can build about 10psi, yet keep traction
that should def help man. i still say get a nasty set of big and littles for it lol :nod
gear dependent boost controller FTW :nod
Bosch ME7.5… no chance paddles. consistent right foot ;D
AWD > fwd and right foot modulation for traction. :banana
im not worried, i know its FWD so why on earth would i want to battle with a car in 1st or low 2nd… if NY didnt have that obd2 scan, i would have gone with an Autronic SM4 setup, but i knew when i built the car i was coming back to NY, i used to live in WA and the county my car is registered in has no emissions compliance laws.
6puck kevlar/ceramic clutch > stock STi clutch in an situation :tong
:crackup
RWD>AWD outta the hole lol
RPS max 6 puck sti clutch > stock sti clutch too :ninja
RWD > * for potential
AWD > * if non-AWD cars using street tires
On street, I am ify about it because RWD can’t heat up their tires unless it’s set up but even then we have our tricks. 
I am strictly talking 60’ in similiar cars
unless u are using nitto 555 drag radials on a highly modded 3000gt… then stock FWD cars > you. :crackup