Where to get towed too??

justinh on the barf … deals w/ a large yard in arizona …

im banned from the barf

if anyone knows anyone with a 1.8T

please hook me up

i need one asap

what the fuck happened?

iirc its justin6h or justinh6 on aim

i follow you i just didnt think the ecu would recognize that, just something i have never read about but thats because i dont know much about the 1.8teeezzz

ian you could try taking it to holtz. the service manager there is is paul. he is nice but he is gonna charge you $$$$ to fix it. tough call, i know caito can fix it, and he is decent with his rates, but getting it there is a bitch. holtz is right there, but you pay dealer labor. unles anyone knows of a local shop that could do it i would pay for the flatbed and get it to caito.

joe

brain picke dup a stock 1.8t for like 600 bucks i think

Check on the Vortex:

I found an AEB engine code for you (big valves) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2300943

You would have to swap the intake manifold and the DBC to DBW.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2290133

can the ecu differentiate between detonation and a bearing knock ?

if not, the comp using limp mode settings to make sure the car can get to a safe location on the side of the road, and thats all its going to allow

exactly, when it knocks past 29.835v on the knock sensor it pulls all boost and timing. Closes the TB, which causes the DV to open, dumping all boost.

Ian, check the IC piping on the drivers side of the car. We pulled that off, and if it popped off it might be causing no boost also, granted, it seems there’s a MUCh bigger problem, check it out. But that will causing bucking, no boost, slowness, and gayness… however, not knock, or oil lights. :frowning:

$500 :wink: – intake mani to turbo, oil pan to valve cover w/accessories and motor mounts… Let me call them up and see what they have, they’re in pittsburgh.

i just need a motor, i dont care where it comes from

hay Brian, would ya be willing to help pull apart this motor and look at what i got going on.

but ya i just wana swap in a motor and work on the one i pull out, cuase the wife needds the car ASAP

wow that sucks man…

sould of got the toyota :wink:

yup, again i totally get that…but what would cause knock if an oil pump is bad. i mean yeah starve the motor of oil and it gets hot, but i dont see it causing consistent knock, then pulling timing. my question is does lack of oil pressure only cause limp mode (direct relationship, not i.e. motor gets hot from lack of lube and knocks)

29.835 huh? i wish i could have that much knock headroom. with the s4 it is pegged at 12.xx…and it sucks cuz i have one per side and they register motor mount movement…and that sucks cuz it will yank the timing across the board.

Spun bearing.

29.835v on the knock sensor… not timing pull… max timing pull is 12.