Dont know what you have going on there… I welded the bung on to the side of the pipe a few inches away from the stock WB O2. Even calibraited it in the pipe, your suposed to do it in fresh air hit the button and then stick it in the pipe and complete the process. Even with me not reading the directions its dead nuts on with the same readings as my stock WB O2.
I even pulled the battery for 2 months on the car and fired it back up, didnt even calibrate it again, and once it warmed up it was again right on with the stock WB O2, i assume the controller has a watch battery backup or something.[/QUOTE]
My Corvette makes an LC1 come up with an overheat message (sensor about a foot from the turbo), where as the FJO works fine.
My Corvette makes an LC1 come up with an overheat message (sensor about a foot from the turbo), where as the FJO works fine.[/QUOTE]
Man I fucked up my quotes and in turn yours fucked up too. lol I was reading your quote from me above and was like wait that sounds like something I… ohhhh i see. lol
Anyway, I am sure it has alot to do with being that close to the turbo… mine is about 1.5-2 feet from the turbo. Maybe the FJO has a better O2 or something. dunno.
The AEM widebands are cheap, but trust me if your running racegas you will be going through sensors all the time. If you drive the car, you will be lucky if the sensor last a season. I had one burnout in 2 hours on the dyno, lol! PlX makes good widebands for the money and last pretty well, my next wideband is a MOTEC PLM with an NTK sensor.
Compact, I have been using a plm on my dyno for 5 years and love it, I tune over a 100 cars a year and I like knowing that when I need something to be reliable it is everytime. Don’t get me wrong the fjo is a great wideband, but the Motec has worked great for me.