Product review - AEM UEGO WBO2 w/ round style gauge

NYSpeed Automotive
1

after recently finishing the boosted focus, it was discovered that the wideband we had was not working for us

a friend of mine was nice enough to let us borrow his aem wideband for the sake of getting the car tuned.

i must say, i like the AEM setup much better then the L-C1 ive previously used

everything on the aem is plug and play, put the WB in the exhaust, the gauge in the dash, plug in the wires, hook up the power and ground and your done.

theres also an alalog output wire, and a Serial data stream outputwire

in our case we connected the analog wire to Nicks SCT pro racer software for AFR logging, and using the simple formula of “vx2=10” in his software, we always have afr displayed as an afr# instead of a lambda number

with the LC-1, you have to do a free air calibration before you can use it, you have to set up the graphs for the analog output’s, and -at least as late as last summer and possibly still true - you have to download new software and firmware from the website to replace WHAT ALREADY COMES INSTALLED. not to mention that the LC1 uses a 9 pin cable, and if you dont have a laptop w/ a 9 pin connction you cany use a usb adapter, because even with the best adapter & drivr set, its still glitchy at best

considering the LC-1 is $210 (no gauge) and the AEM is $270 WITH a gauge, $60 extra in price gives you a wideband thats way easier to setup, less problems, less wiring, AND you get a gauge that can be used stand alone, so you dont HAVE to have a laptop to run the AEM

AEM > innovate motorsports …

2

Good info. I am gonna start thinking about getting a WB in my car soon just so I can always keep an eye on a/f.

3

oh yea, for the calibration, the aem is calibrated AT THE FACTORY!

i always wondered how accurate free air calibration in your driveway is, would fumes from the car throw it off? what if you cant do it on a spring fresh day, garages and shops can get stuffy, could that throw the calibration off ?

thats easily avoided on the AEM, the AEM is factory calibrated

when you have the WB sensor itself in your hand, youll notice that the plug end has this odd looking extention next to the wires. that section would be the factory calibration. they test each sensor one by one, then use a laser to etch the board inside there, setting the calibration for life

if you ever have to buy a replacement sensor, THAT one comes already calibrated too, so its again a simple operation, screw sensor in, connect plug, go racing

i would LOVE to get ahold of a zeitronics wb02 for comparison purposes

and i still love the lc-1 for its adjustable analog outputs, cause being able to lie to the ecu > … but thats now the only reason i like it … i still hate that case thats on the lc-1 wiring … dosnt leave you enough cable to mount the o2 on a pipe @ the front of the motor and still have the case in the vehical, so that gay ass case has to chill under the hood, and theres no way to mount it to make it look pretty …fawk

4

i’m glad my wideband worked out for you, now i need some pipe measurements please so i can order :slight_smile:

5

HRK,

Where online can i find this pees for sale? I wanna take a look at it. Thanks.

6

Oh for an FYI if anyone’s looking to pick one up please PM me

7

HRK, the WB needs to be recalibrated for every sensor. no 2 sensors are exactly the same, and as they get older they get “lazy”
the innovative is a more accurate setup.

both are nice, and if i had to just have something in the car, the AEM looks good and is functional… if i needed a tool for tuning, hands down the innovative lc and lm are where its at.

8

we need a tool for tuining

the lc-1 fails to give us any sort of signal, the serial output wont connect to the laptop, analog 1 puts out a constant .95v signal, alalog 2 puts out nothing. i have also gotten no response about this problem on the innovate forum. inntune doesnt have an answer, kennedy’s dyno tune doesnt have an answer. the instructions dont have an answer.

items that work first try > items that dont work and noone can figure out

9

The AEM is nice. We have sold tons of them.

The innovate series is good quality too. Both good products.

10

you have to send the unit back, and innovative will send you a new one. i had the same issue with my outputs. its because you grounded one of the wires. they resolved the issue with the newer ones.

11

battery was out of the car during the entire install, making it kinda hard to do. i dont want to have nick send it back just for them to argue with us about something :gotme:

12

they wont argue. its a very common issue. its all over their tech forums.
get the new and and sell it to make up for some of the AEMs cost :tup:

13

And there you have it. I use the LM1 for tuning and sell both brands for those reasons.

On vehicles with ECUs that you can’t log o2 readings back out of, but the LM1 is great because you have a display to watch and great logging software as well as onboard datalogging. When you can run the LC1 output to the ecu and then log back out of the ecu that unit works like a champ.

The UEGOs are great for permanent install for o2 trimming with standalones. I just don’t allow trimming under heavy load. It’s great to have a gauge so you can see when they get real lazy. You can also see if there’s a sensor error right on the gauge, whereas if you permanently install an LC1 you have no display to notify you if something goes wrong while you’re not logging. Plus they’re great looking gauges that come with multiple faces and bezels so you can make them match pretty much any other gauges you have in your vehicle.

I always replace my sensor WAY before that happens but people who permanently install sensors generally seem to milk them as long as possible.

-Mike

14

yeah, the LC-1 might still be ok, i have to re-check everything. i just dont feel like going through all that trouble half way through tunning and running into problems. im going to re-wire the lc-1 and double check to see if it works one last time before i go sending it back.