Thinking i might take alot of time with the z and work on it slowly over the summer.
toying with the idea of getting something to rip around in this year as i do miss having a a “summer” car that actually runs.
most i would want to spend is 5k but would prefer to be in the 3k range.
or ideally if anyone happens to know of a dark blue 88 GT that i sold maybe 9 years ago to a guy in Colden…I would like to buy it back.
Thanks
Would really prefer a fox body as opposed to the other bodys.
this?
I hate it when you read through a FS post and see a ton of stuff wrong at the end so here’s what it needs right at the top. The clutch is completely shot and it has some damage from a minor accident (details below). It still runs fine but will need to be towed due to the bad clutch.
Open to any reasonable offers, including trades! I have $10k+ into it but don’t expect nearly that much due to the current condition.
This is my 1989 Ford Mustang LX notchback. I purchased it in April 2004. The previous owner had owned it for many years. It was mainly a weekend cruiser for him. He only took it to the track once. As far as I can tell it has never seen winter. The previous owner kept it garaged and didn’t even drive it in the rain! I bought it with about 116,600 miles. With ~123,500 on the car now I’ve put less than 7,000 miles on it. Engine has < 20k miles.
So here’s the story. I garaged the car in October 2004, after owning it for only 6 months. The oil pan gasket went and a few bolts fell off the exhaust so I figured I’d put it away for the winter and fix the issues. Then I got a great deal on some upgrades, started the work, but never finished it. Someone broke into the garage at some point and stole the Wilwood front brakes and the brand new coilovers I had sitting there. I lost interest and motivation. I got the car out of the garage last summer and put it back together. I drove it for a few months then garaged it for the winter. I had it out for a whole 2 days before I blew the clutch and it hasn’t been driven since.
We’ll start with some pics. I have a gallery of pics (all high res) here: http://roclife.perception.cc/album39. Many of the earlier pics do not include current modifications (such as front strut tower brace, newer wheels). I have included comments with each picture so you can tell what is new and old.
Body/Exterior
See update below for details on accident. There is almost no rust on this car. Body has a few imperfections. Passenger side door has some damage in the jam (not visible with it closed). Driver’s side molding has some deformation. Car has been repainted. Paint job isn’t the greatest but still looks decent. There are some chips, dings, and scratches from it sitting in the garage. The frame rails I had welded on have some surface rust. Other than that there is no rust or bondo. Previous owner always wanted a 93 Cobra (which he went and bought after he sold me this car). He put on the 93 Cobra spoiler, clear corner lenses, cobra taillights, and fiberglass cowl hood. Trunk is debadged. Rear window and rear side windows are tinted very dark, I think 10%.
In 2007 someone pulled out into the front of the car. As a result the bumper, fender, headlight, and a hood latch need replacing. Insurance quoted it at around $1100 but the parts can be had from a junkyard for around $300. I already have the screws out of the fender.
Pics of the damage:
Engine/Performance
Engine is a Ford Racing GT40 XB3 5L crate engine (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=3791). Has shown different numbers on two different dynos. On a chassis dyno the car did 298hp, 275tq (if I remember correctly) at the axles. That was before the underdrive pullies. Good for numbers, not good for tuning. I also had it on a Mustang dyno and it did something like 230hp, 260tq (at the wheels). Good for tuning, not good for numbers.
Power/Drivetrain
GT40 Upper and lower intake (polished) - Rare and in high demand
BBK Shorty headers
BBK Fender CAI
BBK Off-road Xpipe
BBK Exhaust (sounds awesome) w/ polished end pipes (not just tips, they go up under the car and look much better than tips)
BBK Underdrive pullies
New Energy Suspensions motor & transmission mounts (brand new, transmission mount needs installing)
New alternator
New accessory belt
New silicone coolant hoses (heater core bypassed)
New 180 degree thermostat
New oil pan gasket
Mac heavy duty clutch
Ford Racing 3:73 gears
Optima Yellowtop relocated to trunk with 200A breaker
Suspension/Brakes
Steeda Lowering Springs
Steeda Front Strut Tower Brace (powdercoated black)
Steeda Full Length Subframe Braces (with torque box reenforcement)
SSBC Rear Brake Kit: 10.5" slotted disk brake conversion, included new master cylinder, extra set of pads included, WAS NOT CHEAP.
Energy Suspensions front swaybar endlinks
Wheels/tires
When I bought the car it had 93 Cobra wheels on it. They would not fit over the new front brakes so I replaced them with some newer Cobra eBay specials. I have two sets of identical wheels, one chrome and one silver (17x8 in the front and 17x9 in the rear). Chrome set has 245/45/17 Nitto 555s in the front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R drag radials in the back. Front tires are like new, drag radials are almost new (both have less than 3k miles on them). They have only been to the track 3 times. Only the last time were “proper” burnouts done, for only 2 passes. The silver wheels have Kumho Victoracer V710s on them. They were used for a few BMW and about half a season of SCCA autocrosses. One has a corded flat spot from the brakes being locked up at Watkins Glen. The other 3 have a reasonable amount of tread. They could be used for at least half an autox season if they haven’t gotten hard. May need some conditioning from sitting for so long. The car includes the chrome set, the silver set is available if wanted.
Interior
Adjustable shift light (no huge ugly aftermarket tach, just a light)
3 pt harness with Ford Racing shoulder pads (for autox ONLY, NOT for safety!)
Metal shifter surround bezel
Shift knob
Other than that the interior is mostly stock. Most of the interior was painted black by the previous owner, some of the panels are still red (see issues below). Includes Sony door speakers (if I remember correctly they are 5.25") and some kind of cheap dash speakers. No speakers in the back. No head unit included.
Extra Parts
Here’s a list of other parts that are available for the car.
D&D Motorsports tubular K member w/ welded rear brace and tubular A arms
Heavy duty rear upper control arms (BBK??)
Aluminium driveshaft
Caster/camber plates (brand new)
Another set of lowering springs (Steeda or H&R??)
Extra T5 that needs rebuilding
Original rear brakes, master cylinder, extra disks, few other extra brake parts
Some other stuff I’m not remembering
Known Issues
Sometimes the transmission grinds 3rd when accelerating hard (like at the drag strip). Very typical of T5s. The funny thing is that it didn’t grind once when I brought the car to the Glen. It did grind on my best passes at NYIRP.
The interior is two tone. The car had a red interior and the previous owner wanted black. He started to change it to black but never finished. Has a black dash, black center console, and a few panels. Rest of interior is red.
The heater core is bad and is bypassed. Not really necessary since the car shouldn’t be driven in cold weather anyway.
I did a quick and dirty job of rolling the fenders to fit the wheels. The paint is a little chipped on the underside and they are “lumpy”.
Passenger door is hard to open due to the damage mentioned above. Also, the driver’s door lock doesn’t work because it’s disconnected and missing the actuator. The outside door handle is broken on the passenger door. Inside handle still works.
Electric mirror switch is disconnected, as is the stock lighter. I wired two lighter plugs under the driver’s seat.
Could use a good dyno tune.
Racing
I bought the car to race, not be a garage queen. It was used for the BMW and SCCA 2004 autox season. It has been to Watkins Glen once. It has been to NYIRP drag strip many times. I have all time slips from the strip.
The car really wasn’t competitive at autoxing. The one wheel peel was the biggest factor. If it had a good LSD installed and some good dampers (Koni sports) it would handle significantly better.
NYIRP was a different story. I started at 13.8 when I got the car, then dropped to 13.6 (both on 245/45/17 Supra V712 tires). Then I got the drag radials and couldn’t seem to drop the time. I changed my launching style and dropped it to 13.3. Then a fellow Mustang racer told me to try doing a burnout in 2nd instead of 1st. That made the difference. Best time was 12.90, followed by 12.97 on the next pass. Unfortunately it was the last Friday the track was open that year. With the rear upper control arms and other available parts it could drop a few more tenths. I have never done any type of “power shifting” with the car. No shifting without the clutch, no full throttle shifts. I always let off the throttle.
Summary
There you have it. I loved this car. It is damn fun no matter what you’re doing with it. I’m selling it because I’ve lost interest, have 2 other cars, and I need a good daily driver.
I have over $10,000 into the car. I have dated receipts for every part I’ve put on it since I bought it and all labor that I’ve paid for. I have non-dated receipts for all the parts the previous owner put on it (printouts from Summit). I have a binder with everything (receipts, time slips, etc).
OPEN TO ALL OFFERS
I’ll also consider partial trades. I’m open to anything in decent condition, but especially Subarus (WRX or 2.5RS), A4/S4, GOOD condition Metro, BMW 3 series, Civic/CRX, or DSM.
I talked to Dan about that car maybe 2 years ago lol…I might have to hit him back up…didnt know he still had it.
boy have i got a car for you. 
its a mustang, but not a 5.0.
what is it Sir Nikuk?
Horrible idea. Take all your time / money / effort and throw it at the Z. Don’t waste your time. If you have $5k to throw around, even $3k you could have all or most of the parts ready to go for the Z.
And you’ve been down this road before…
Wrong…The Z needs wayyyyyyyy more than just a motor dropped in it.
as far as I know nothing has changed, same deal.
i talked to him before it was hit…almost 3 years ago now lol
I would hate to lowball him terribly for it. I know he took good care of it.
I’ll lowball him, if you don’t want it. Could be a fun track car.
he just got an S4 so price might have dropped on this…
low ball him all you want, I think he’ll just be happy to hear people are interested.
Craigslist should be covered with these things. You could pick one up for 2500 and all it would need is a cleaning. (One hell of a cleaning…)
EDIT:
You willing to drive a few hours for one? They are seemingly cheaper out in Albany…
http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/1035237147.html
http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/1028663992.html
I have checked craigs…nothing really exciting out there currently…there were some great deals in the fall but I didnt want to store one all winter.
This is a whim…so it has to be the right situation and a car that i can drive all summer and sell it in the fall at little to no loss of $
eh. scratch me out then, as i have to put the FI back in it and finish tuning. Won’t be ready for a couple weeks.
Sounds probably dumb… But I’d sell you my Toyota Supra Turbo 5spd… $4000.
Needs nothing but a home, and an owner that will enjoy and take care of her.
I would wait for the right car 
Doesnt sound dumb…just no desire to travel that road again…I have had 2 of them.
buy my notchback
I am going to look at one tomorrow so I will keep you posted.
What are the details/specs on yours? and of course…Price.
Ive got a 5.0 but not a 5spd
74k miles