I am looking for a complete rear bearing carrier, steel axel, rotor, sprocket assembly from any 4 wheeler. Would prefer a yamaha setup, but it doesn’t matter.
The cheaper the better.
going into the cart?
look up on ebay. I am sure a yamaha yfz450 setup could be had cheap, or even cheaper a 400ex one. stay away from the z400 setup its a little cheesy and isnt the easiest to adjust.
Yup! I have been looking on there all day lol.
whats the width on the cart? Becasue a stock YFZ with stock wheels is around 46" wide. 50" wide I believe is the max legal for racing, so most aftermarket axles are +2’s.
I am just thinking that the front suspension, if you were to use ATV a-arms mounted on the side of the frame are going to be way out there. On the nose of a atv frame the mounting points are not much more than 6-8" apart left arm bushing to right arm bushing.
It would be sick to get an IFS setup off a Polaris 4x4 atv and make longer CV’s. then you could mount those arms out farther (if needed) and have IFS instead of a solid rear axle.
Also with the eight of the motor and most of the driver weight on the ass end of that thing, that axle will see ALOT of stress, much more than it would under the proper ATV it came from. So you wont want to go mounting the wheels/tires backwards to get more offset to push them out farther. If the widths will match the front suspension, and you can still stay in the 50" zone wide, get a strong aftermartket axle. lonestar I ran in one of my machines, a Durablue in another, and a Ge-Force in the last. Prices higest to lowest. The geforce was $300 Irc, and had a lifetime warranty. not as strong as the Lonestar but they werent dicks about the warranty like lonestar was.
I am not using the axel. It’s getting cut down to just a $1 off the rotor and sprocket, and I am welding u-joints on the ends to work with the original axels. So I really am just using the center section.
I am not looking to spend more then $100 on the whole setup.
Why not just buy a pair of pillow blocks and appropriate diameter stub shaft then to form a jackshaft setup? Weld on your sprocket carrier. Far easier to fab a mount setup for it too since the pillow blocks will be setup for such a fashion.
Cheap pillow blocks:
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-Pillow-Block-Bearings-cln-Eccentric-Locking/Categories
You can buy shaft stock on their as well but you can find it non-keyed and cheaper elsewhere, like a go kart website.
Just a thought for you instead of buying an ATV setup. It’s essentiall the same idea behind the primary drive for snomobiles, they just used flanged bearings instead of pillow blocks. It’s not weight loaded on your jerry rig there, so it doesn’t requires the taper bearings. Just radials and maybe a lock collar to set a tiny freeplay.
Tis how I did it on that one I made years back for a guy 
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Yea thats pretty much what I am looking at now. It will make any adjustments needed a lot easier. Thanks for that site! I plan to go with flanged bearings though, it would be easier to setup the brackets since I plan to use the stock trans mounts.
Adam has the rigth idea, but dont weld the sprocket right to the axle/shaft. get a sprocket flange off an atv axle that has the same inside dia splines as the outside dia shaft your using. then slide that over and weld it on. that way your only a few bolts away from replacing the sprocket and cant adjust the gear ratio as needed.
I think i have a stock YFZ axle laying around that was bent at the ends but if your cutting it off at the sprocket and the break hub then your good to go. and a YFZ bearing carrier is cheap on ebay. now i understand what your trying to do, I bet you can get all the parts for well within the 100$. Also are you running the brake inboard on the axle or at each hub?
Also if you use the pillow bearings like your talking now, I think it will be WAY better than adapting the atv carrier. If I still have the axle, i will measure the bearing surface with a digi-caliper for you, and if you see a bearing with the right inside dia, your golden.
I like that idea much better too, becasue you can make a big mounting plate for the two pillow bearings to bolt to and then machine adjustment slots in the mounting plate to allow you to slide it forward and backwards to adjust the chain tension.
effing-sweet setup I think.
Yea decided to go with a 1 1/4 keyed center shaft, 4 4-bolt flanged bearings on each side of the mounting brackets, removable sprocket holder, and keyed hub/ rotor. I will also be running a jack shaft setup right above it to line the motor up in the center of the buggy.
I am going to make them all in one removable unit. This will also stil the rngine loser into the buggy for better exhaust clearance.
Good Much better than the atv axle in so many ways. The flanged bearings will work very well too as long as you have two very study vertical and parallel surfaces. Make sure you buy flanged bearings that are floating. If you don’t you have to be 100% certain that you accurately mount the bearings perfectly concentric or they’ll burn up really quick due to offset thrust load.
Thing will be a fucking hoot though. I’ve got something similar in nature in the works, still collecting random parts for it though and have to CNC a few other parts yet. Tad bit different in the track surface though :tongue