Ok I bought a ninja 636 that was dropped the other day. I went to go look at the bike and it started up and ran great I loaded it up brought it home and it sputter starts for one second then stops or it won’t start at all. I notice when the FI light is on it will turn but no sputter start. Any ideas need help asap
It may or may not be throwing a code, you’d have to try pulling one to see. That would be a good start. No lights were on when you first looked at it correct?
No that I noticed. The bike will only sputter start when the FI light is off. How do u check the codes? Someone told me it could be the tilt sensor but I thought that resets when u turn the bike upright I hear a little ball in the sensor when I give it a slight tap. Also when it sputter starts and I go to try to rev it to keep it running that is also when the FI light will go on when I touch the throttle.
I actually have never pulled a code before on a bike so I’m not sure how that would work. Have you disconnected the battery at all? That could reset the ECU and maybe give you a clean slate to start with.
Yeah did already and it comes on still
Check the wiring, could be a bad ground or something damaged from when it was dropped. Otherwise, I’d suggest checking the plugs and it might not be a bad idea to change them even if they look good. After that, maybe coil packs?
Also, how many times have you tried starting it? Engine could be flooded if you’ve tried cranking it enough times.
Does it have oil in it?
I’ve never done this before, but taken from kawiforums here’s how to pull codes. It’s possible that you won’t pull a code at all. The only way you can pull a code is if the FI light is on and stays on while the bike is running. But since yours isn’t running we can’t know for sure if it’s throwing a code or not.
There is a way of doing a diagnostics check on the bike and reading the service codes that the ECU is putting out. Under the seat, where the butterfly servo is located is a diagnostic lead.
If I recall, this is an orange wire. You need to fabricate a ground wire to attach to this lead to be able to pull the codes from the ECU.
Once you have the lead made and plugged in, there are 3 service modes for reading codes. User Mode, Dealer Mode 1 and Dealer Mode 2.
Once you have the lead made and plugged in, there are 3 service modes for reading codes. User Mode, Dealer Mode 1 and Dealer Mode 2.
[QUOTE]
User Mode
The ECU notifies the rider of troubles in DFI system and
ignition system by lighting the FI indicator when DFI system
and ignition system parts are faulty, and initiates fail-safe
function. In case of serious troubles ECU stops the injection/
ignition/starter motor operation.
Dealer Mode 1
The FI indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show
the problem(s) which the DFI system and ignition system
has at the moment of diagnosis.
Dealer Mode 2
The FI indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show
the problem(s) which the DFI system and ignition system
has at the moment of diagnosis.
Self-diagnosis Procedures
○When a problem occurs with the DFI system and ignition
system, the DFI indicator light (LED) [A] goes on.
NOTE
○Use a fully charged battery when conducting
self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light (LED) blinks
very slowly or doesn’t blink.
○Keep the self-diagnosis terminal grounded during self
-diagnosis, with a auxiliary lead.
•Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the
Frame chapter) and pull the self-diagnosis terminal [G]. •Turn the ignition switch ON. •Connect an auxiliary lead [E] for grounding to the self
-diagnosis terminal. •To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 1, ground [A] the
self-diagnosis terminal for more than 2 seconds [C], and
then keep it grounded continuously [D].
○Count the blinks of the light (LED) to read the service
code. Keep the auxiliary lead ground until you finish reading
the service code.
•To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 2 repeat opening
[b] and grounding [A] the lead more than five times [F]
within 2 seconds [C] after the lead is first grounded, and
then keep it grounded continuously [D] for more than 2
seconds.
Self-diagnosis Terminal [G]
○Count the blinks of the light (LED) to read the service
code. Keep the auxiliary lead [E] ground until you finish
reading the service code.
NOTE
○If the self-diagnosis mode is in dealer mode 1 then you
need to enter the dealer mode 2, turn off the ignition
switch once.
Service Code Clearing Procedures
•Enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 2 (see Self- diagnosis
Procedures in this chapter).
NOTE
○Make sure to keep the grounding until the following
opening and grounding starts.
•Pull the clutch lever in more than 5 seconds, and then
release it.
•Repeat opening [b] and grounding [A] the lead [E] (self
-diagnosis terminal [G]) more than five times [F] within 2
seconds [C] after the lead is grounded, and then keep it
grounded continuously [D] for more than 2 seconds.
[/QUOTE]
I tried afew times to start it won’t then after a few times it will do the sputter thing. But will the flood make the light flash or will plug I know the FI light is for the fuel injection
Yeah the FI light does stand for fuel injection but it also pretty much doubles as a CEL. If the bike is running and it stays on, then that’s it’s way of telling you there’s a code being thrown. What mods are done to the bike? That could possibly help in the troubleshooting.
Yeah has oil. I tried to start a few it won’t but then it will do the sputter thing after a few timesm will a flood or plugs make the FI light come cause I know that for fuel injection. Also I heard of the light comming on for emissions but 03 didn’t have emission
Borrow someones ecu and see if that fixes it.
Well anyone have a ecu I can borrow? Where can I get plugs from a place open after 530 cause heblers and pioneer are closed today
freewheelin’s open til 6, or get the part number and go to bob weaver.
The more I’m thinking about this now, I bet it is throwing a code since the light comes on only when it’s running. If you’re hearing the ball in the tip over sensor, then that SHOULD be ok. Although I’ve also heard of situations when this was not the case. When you turn the ignition to ON, does everything work as it should (fuel pump primes, exhaust servo motor whirrs)? Which side did the bike go down on?
Yeah I hear everything u said when I turn the key on. It was layed down on its right side
Just an FYI but if the FI light is on, you are definitely throwing a code.
FI light = CEL
mine had a loose positive wire on the battery and the FI light was on, tightened it up and it fired right up. this is probably not your problem but worth a shot…
EDIT: all my lights were on because it was just turned to ignition on durrrr
The FI light I mainly on when cranking
And again that comes back to pulling the code. Spark plugs wouldn’t be a bad idea, but having that code would give you a good indication of the problem.