Body/Exterior
See update below for details on accident. There is almost no rust on this car. Body has a few imperfections. Passenger side door does not open from the outside. Needs plastic piece. Driver’s side molding has some deformation. Car has been repainted. Paint job isn’t the greatest but still looks decent. There are some chips, dings, and scratches from it sitting in the garage. The frame rails I had welded on have some surface rust. Other than that there is no rust or bondo. Previous owner always wanted a 93 Cobra (which he went and bought after he sold me this car). He put on the 93 Cobra spoiler, clear corner lenses, and fiberglass cowl hood. Trunk is debadged. Rear window and rear side windows are tinted very dark, I think 10%.
Engine/Performance
Engine is a Ford Racing GT40 XB3 5L crate engine (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=3791). Has shown different numbers on two different dynos. On a chassis dyno the car did 298hp, 275tq (if I remember correctly) at the axles. That was before the underdrive pullies. Good for numbers, not good for tuning. I also had it on a Mustang dyno and it did something like 230hp, 260tq (at the wheels). Good for tuning, not good for numbers.
Power/Drivetrain
GT40 Upper and lower intake (polished) - Rare and in high demand
BBK Shorty headers
BBK Fender CAI
BBK Off-road Xpipe
BBK Exhaust (sounds awesome) w/ polished end pipes (not just tips, they go up under the car and look much better than tips)
BBK Underdrive pullies
New Energy Suspensions motor & transmission mounts
New alternator & Relocation kit 130amp alt.
New accessory belt
New silicone coolant hoses (heater core bypassed)
New 180 degree thermostat
New oil pan gasket
New Center Force Dual Friction heavy duty clutch
New FMS Flywheel
Ford Racing 3:73 gears
Optima Redtop relocated to trunk with 200A breaker
Brand New upgraded t-5 built by P&J’s
Suspension/Brakes
Steeda Lowering Springs
Steeda Front Strut Tower Brace (powdercoated black)
Steeda Full Length Subframe Braces (with torque box reenforcement)
SSBC Rear Brake Kit: 10.5" slotted disk brake conversion, included new master cylinder, extra set of pads included, WAS NOT CHEAP.
Energy Suspensions front swaybar endlinks
Wheels/tires
Cobra R Replicas
Chrome set has 245/45/17 Nitto 555s in the front and 275/40/17 Nitto 555R drag radials in the back. Front tires are like new, drag radials are almost new (both have less than 3k miles on them). They have only been to the track 3 times. Only the last time were “proper” burnouts done, for only 2 passes.
Interior
Adjustable shift light (no huge ugly aftermarket tach, just a light)
3 pt harness with Ford Racing shoulder pads (for autox ONLY, NOT for safety!)
Metal shifter surround bezel
Shift knob
Other than that the interior is mostly stock. Most of the interior was painted black by the previous owner, some of the panels are still red (see issues below). Includes Sony door speakers (if I remember correctly they are 5.25") and some kind of cheap dash speakers. No speakers in the back. No head unit included.
The interior is two tone. The car had a red interior and the previous owner wanted black. He started to change it to black but never finished. Has a black dash, black center console, and a few panels. Rest of interior is red.
The heater core is bad and is bypassed. Not really necessary since the car shouldn’t be driven in cold weather anyway.
I did a quick and dirty job of rolling the fenders to fit the wheels. The paint is a little chipped on the underside and they are “lumpy”.
Passenger door is hard to open due to the damage mentioned above. Also, the driver’s door lock doesn’t work because it’s disconnected and missing the actuator. The outside door handle is broken on the passenger door. Inside handle still works.
Electric mirror switch is disconnected, as is the stock lighter. I wired two lighter plugs under the driver’s seat.
Could use a good dyno tune.
Racing from previous owner:
I bought the car to race, not be a garage queen. It was used for the BMW and SCCA 2004 autox season. It has been to Watkins Glen once. It has been to NYIRP drag strip many times. I have all time slips from the strip.
The car really wasn’t competitive at autoxing. The one wheel peel was the biggest factor. If it had a good LSD installed and some good dampers (Koni sports) it would handle significantly better.
NYIRP was a different story. I started at 13.8 when I got the car, then dropped to 13.6 (both on 245/45/17 Supra V712 tires). Then I got the drag radials and couldn’t seem to drop the time. I changed my launching style and dropped it to 13.3. Then a fellow Mustang racer told me to try doing a burnout in 2nd instead of 1st. That made the difference. Best time was 12.90, followed by 12.97 on the next pass. Unfortunately it was the last Friday the track was open that year. With the rear upper control arms and other available parts it could drop a few more tenths. I have never done any type of “power shifting” with the car. No shifting without the clutch, no full throttle shifts. I always let off the throttle.
You can see everything I have done here as well as pics:
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67839
Have reciepts for everything…over 12k
Car looks great…needs paint…runs awesome…sounds better.
I am going to ask $6500 OBO for the car but will entertain offers.
