Clearly they need to come with instructions then…
Thats funny Jesse…since I’ve said the same about you before…LOL
Im just saying theyre dumpy. On the other hand i’ve used large ones to clamp guy wire cables that hold up baffles at the ANG, which weigh several tons…
Exactly my point…those are U.S. made clevises and are doubled up on the cable side of the clamp…and have never come apart. So a little baffled by the stupid comments…
Man you are really hurting my feelings with your awesome comebacks! Your clevices are so awesome, what’s next? You gonna remove the top 2 tranny bolts? Bet you taught him that shit! ITS LIGHTER SO IT MAKES WAYNE RETARDED!!! :retardclap:retardclap:retardclap:retardclap
and ridiculous for suggesting a different way to do stuff! OMG!
I always thought the spring should be preloaded though, not loose when under no load.
clearly, if 1stgen didn’t do it, it’s wrong.
Agian clearly your ego has been ruffled…get a life.
??? dude you’re fuct up…first you say the clamps are stoopid…then you’re suggesting putting a 5lb chain in place of a cable that is less than a pound, to do the same fucking job that the piece of cable can do. Do you need to simply over engineer something because you can? Thats a waste of time, resources and yes weight. Sorry but your an idiot…if you can’t see how stupid your point is then you obviously need to take a xanax or some shit.
…ninetytwo the spring never really leaves the perch unless the car is airborne…the cables are strictly for two places on two different tracks. When the car comes back down, the spring re-seats itself in the perch because it has nowhere to go.
So if I want my car lower right now, it will loosen the spring under no load. But if I install a cable it will be ok? What happens if the spring doesn’t seat correctly when the wheel hits pavement again? I’m just curious since my car 3 wheels often.
The shorter the spring the easier it will be to unseat…the 2" diameter 8" free length springs reseat easy because of the narrow diameter of the spring and the fact they are flat at the bottom. If you are using lowering springs or cut stock springs they may not re-seat due to the nature of a stock spring.
I’ll have to look at my spring size, they are aftermarket coilovers, Stance GR+.
Dude … re-read these posts and re-read my original one. I merely made a suggestion to you and posted an example of ANOTHER way to do it. I didn’t say mine was correct, i asked about the clamps.
i must’ve offended you or something in the beginning, because none of the above was called for.
I’m not the one with the hurt ego, I didn’t get all butt-hurt, just merely responded when provoked.
Dear Wayne:
You are wasting your breath.
However, in a 64’ hopper application the chain is limiting suspension travel against a a spring with an incredibly high spring rate. Also that spring is still compressed and under significant load at maximum droop.
If you notice in the picture the top of Tom’s spring is out of the pocket entirely, and therefore the cable is not fighting the spring force at all, it is merely holding the weight of the suspension, wheel and tire. The purpose of the cable is to limit suspension travel because tom is using a damper that has significantly more stroke than the stock setup. Without the cable the axle hits the frame, and the CV joint gets pulled out.
Wayne, see above…