yea, if you are REAL careful you can use a lighter… but its a very mine touch because you need it hot enough to heat the skin, but not hurt the coating. I’ve done it a few times… just didn’t deal with it yet.
I also finally got my alarm installed yesterday. Ended up working on it from around 6pm til 1am. Added the alarm, remote starter (with neutral safety wire run into the hood pin since on the 04’s its grounded when in gear), trunk release solenoid, and window module controlling the 2 front windows. Even with the amount of wires coming off the alarm, by just pulling off the knee bolster you really don’t see any wires what-so-ever. Everything is tucked away nicely. Also threw in a much nicer shift knob (cobb subaru knob with black ball and blue ring) and got my headlight fixed and working properly. I have some pics that I’ll try to get posted shortly.
Looks like you need a JSEnclosure…
I do. I want to get one that fills in just the space in front of the seat. I’d like to have the amp on the left with it slightly sunken in so the face of the amp is flush with the “face” of the box and the wires will be 100% hidden (or as hidden as possible) with the sub on the right. And I’d like to get as much air space as possible (up to 1.5 cu.ft.) without losing a ton of trunk space.
Let me know what you can do and a price. not sure when I’ll be able to afford it, but I’d like to do it soon as my sub is just in a basic crappy box for now.
Some pics of the alarm install and sub added to the trunk
Almost all cleaned up. A couple last thing to tidy up:
Remote start kill switch behind the hood release:
Window module tucked into the door panel:
Wires run inside the factory boot… yea, it was a bitch:
Trunk release solenoid mounted:
Temporary sub setup until I can get a better box:
Some mad tite JDM upgrades today…
Nokya Hyper Yellow (2500k) 55w foglights:
Innovative Wideband Gauge to go with my LC-1 wideband controller. Not sure if its working 100% b/c it was really jumping around even at idle and never seemed to change much from 8-10ish even with some throttle. I’ll have to look into it further. This is also a temporary location. I haven’t quite figured out exactly where I’m going to mount it. Thinking about doing the clock pod but not 100% sure yet:
JDM Auto intercooler switch connected to a pressure switch set at approx. 10lbs. Immediate spray switch still works, and with the Auto switch on, anytime I reach 10lbs boost it will automatically spray the intercooler:
Quick LED I threw into a pre-existing hole in the steering surround (assuming from the factory boost pod) just to let me know when the sprayer is activated.
Innovate is junk, and will probably continue to not work correctly. Speaking from experience.
Well it was used for the tune, and its all tuned so if I can’t get the gauge to work I’ll just sell it and deal with getting a new setup next time I need to tune it.
That’s an analog gauge, right? You have to setup the LC1 via the serial cable to output the correct voltage range for the gauge.
Ahhh. I was unaware of that. Stupid question here, what do I have to do to do that? I’m assuming I can’t just plug the serial port into my laptop and have it pop right up. I’m guessing I need software and what not???
The gauge he posted hooks right up to the wideband w/o adjusting any voltages.
If no one ever changed the analog outputs on the LC1…
Here is the manual-
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf
When you’re sick of that garbage wideband, install an FJO and enjoy years of trouble free, zero maintenance service. If you can’t tell, I really hate Innovate.
If it’s on the ancient firmware I don’t even think it’s scaled correctly by default. It’s worth a shot. Should also do a free-air calibration on that junk ass piece of shit LC1.
yea… sure thing. I’ll ahve to get some software and dig into it (without changing anything). I also believe I may have connected it wrong. The wire diagram I looked at said to connect the yellow wire to the analog gauge, but that appears to be analog output #1 which later in the manual says it is used to mimic the factory narrow band. And that the brown wire is the wire I need.
They all do the same job, it just depends on what voltage range it’s set to output at. The brown wire is set by default to the range of the gauge so as long as no one has messed around with the LC1 that should do it. Otherwise you’ll have to hook up the serial cable and program the analog output correctly.
I’ll have to check it out. Now if the brown wire is already connected to something, can that just be tied into for the gauge or will it create too much resistance/voltage drop and throw off whatever it is connected to?
Another update 7/28/2011:
Put in a couple audible middle fingers today. They sound great and demand a lot more attention than the stock horns… don’t actually look too bad either. I also rewired the alarm so that the confirmation beeps will come through the siren, but anytime the actual alarm is triggered it will bypass the siren and activate the horns. I wasn’t going to put the siren in, but the confirmation beeps were so friggin loud I didn’t want to piss off the neighbors every morning… lol.
Horns mounted and wired:
Sealed dual relay pack tucked away behind the bumper. The relay is not just simply zip-tied to the frame. There is a strip of “cheese strap” behind it that it is attached to. The zip-tie is there only to keep it tight to the bracket and to make sure the wires don’t ever get pulled.:
Siren mounted on the fender:
Fused 12v input for the horns:
Power wire neatly run along the hood release cable:
All finished and ready to scare the shit out of a few people:
I’m starting to agree with the guy that said stop adding the unneeded electrical junk:lol But again, nice wiring job, rare for me to say that.
I do put a lot of electronics in my cars, I will admit that. But I am very tedious when it comes to wiring so I rarely have an issue that is a result of adding said electronics. However, this is probably it for a while on the electronics aspect… there really isn’t a whole lot more I can add… lol.
