2010/11 Toyota Camry SE

I would have understood 20k…it’s not like they have to clean/fix the car up prior to sale an invest money into parts, etc. to get it to be sell-able.

All they have to do is buff it. I know it’s how they work, but that’s BS IMO. This car is ridiculously clean other than some body scratches thanks to the environment and car washes.

I’m fine with keeping it…it’s not like I can’t afford it. I’m just trying to do the responsible thing as an adult who’s about to start a family to see where I can ‘trim fat’ so to speak. I’m not hurting for that extra $100-200/month. Just doing my due diligence. I know I’d regret getting rid of it because it really is a fantastic car…but I’ll see what my cousin says. If not, I’ll just ride it till it drops. No biggie. I just figured a car of this class and condition (even with the 78kmi on the clock) would still have some retail clout behind it…guess not.

It’s an 07 M35x, 78kmi, Tech package, Black on black, Elite Infiniti Warranty till 88kmi…etc. Here is ALL the info: http://shift518.com/showthread.php?t=26567

I exspect a thread telling us about how awesome it was, no need for details as you cant get many in 30 seconds :rofl

Sorry ilya, had to :hug

:lol

17k is right on the money.

Trade-In Value
when trading in at a dealership

  • $16,972
  • $16,622
  • $15,872
  • $13,872

VALUES FOR FEB 3 2012 - FEB 9 2012 (updated weekly)

  • Private Party Value
    when selling the car yourself
  • $19,407
  • $18,807
  • $18,207
  • $16,307

Well F trading in then. What a crock of shit. Highway robbery.

The private party values are a little better…but it doesn’t take into account that this car STILL has warranty and brand new wheels and tires (yeah yeah, I know, parts don’t add to the price of the car but that is ALSO BS). You bet your bottom dollar I’m going to try to recoup most of the 2k I JUST spent on the new wheels and tires and TPMS sensors if I sell it.

Oh well, I’ll just keep it. Like I said, only looking to ‘trim fat’ because it’s the adult thing to do right now. If I can’t, no biggie. I can afford it either way.

lol

take over my tsx lease and sell your car to a ukraine.

Well if I sell my car to Ukraine…I’ll definitely be looking at a variety of different options.

I worked for Northway and Lia Toyota, I’m not a fanboy of Toyota’s, but I sold my own mother a 2011 Camry LE, and my sister a Corolla S(too fucking small). I like the SE’s appearance, it’s reliable, still haven’t had any issues with the LE either.

It can’t be accused of being a fun car, but if you’re getting married, I’d say it’s a smart choice, save you some money. Maybe get a nice project and have a cheaper, more reliable daily driver to keep your family safe too.

See above…

Dealer offered me 17k (as did another) for my car because they go for 14-15k at the auction. So, they feel that gives them the right to offer me 6k less than retail (I completely understand 3k or so because I realize they have too make money too) and I promptly left.

Going to try selling it overseas back home via my cousin who has connections in a variety of industries back home.

Dude.

Pay off your M and keep it. Then you have NO car payment. Do you drive that much a year where an 8 MPG difference will benefit you? Have you done the math on how backwards trading a vehicle that you owe money on towards another vehicle you will owe money on in an effort to save $ a month in gas?

Seriously, keep the Infiniti. Pay it off and drive it until it won’t pass an inspection if you want to save money.

I went from a 32+ mpg car to a 14-17 mpg truck and double for gas and still wont get rid of the truck for something better on gas.

Im keeping this truck until its paid off, hopefully for a long time.

Saving $40 a week wouldnt make taking out another loan for a few more years on a different car worth it anyway.

what about an is250? it’s a toyota with awd, and i average 23mpg in the winter and 26ish in the summer

I get 20 with a 6000lb. steel brick that has a V8. Fuck V6s lol.

How do you manage to get 20 mpg? My truck’s best is 18.99 on a trip to Pittsfield on route 20.

Normally in the summer it gets 16-17 and in the winter gets 13-15. I dont beat on it and usually drive on the highway with the cruise control set about 5 mph above the speed limit.

I do 30k a year in mileage (this May will be 2yrs I’ve had the car and I have already put on 46,600 miles). So yes…I did the math and difference is 2,500 a year just in fuel (if I got something that did 30+ mpg on the highway). Not to mention lower car payment (and probably lower car insurance) which is an additional grand or so. And then when you consider the fact that the car I’d get would be cheaper…(say 15k)…then I’d be saving THAT additional 5k. All said…if I had found a dealer willing to be respectful and not a bunch of lowballing douche bags…I would have been saving about $8k right off the top.

When I got the M…I had no intentions of being a wedding photographer and putting crazy miles on my car. But now that I am…it is what it is.

Regardless…don’t know why this thread is still going. Dealer(s) offered me 3k below what I owe on the car (and 6k below what the bank values the car at). I laughed and left.

If they would have offered me the same money as what I owe…I don’t see how that’s a bad deal on my part or a bad reason to pursue such a deal?

BUT…they didn’t. So the M is still here and will still be here for a long ass time as evidently every dealer on the planet is out to lowball people. I understand making a grand or two on a car…but 6 grand? Come on.

I can afford the payment and associated expenses no problem…but if I had the opportunity to lower it…wtf wouldn’t I?

Active Fuel Management, V4 mode FTW. Plus I’m at about 1500 RPM (maybe less) at 65MPH. A calm foot helps.

dealers have to make money on a car.

Somebody took a huge hit trading my truck in and I got a hell of a deal on it from a dealer. It booked for a hell of alot more than I paid for it.

The original sticker price was $34k and 3 years later I paid less than half of that.

I forgot about that on the GM’s. Ford never had that.

On my truck 65-70 is around 1800 rpm. Its got 3.55 gears.

so a jetta or passat TDI wouldn’t be of any interest to you. even if i said i could get you a jetta tdi with 0% apr for upto 72 months?