2014/2015 Snowmobile Season Thread

Was thinking about calling it the 2015 Snowmobile Thread since 2014 looks like it will be gone before any trails around here open up but I did get those 60 or so miles on volunteering during the November storm.

Who’s ready to get out and ride? Went over the sled top to bottom in the off season and swapped my 1" Camoplast Ice Ripper for a 1.22 Ice Attak XT, new slides and several new bogie wheel bearings. Added some Nord lock washers to the y-pipe so hopefully they won’t keep backing out (pretty popular solution from the ski-doo forums).

Now just sitting back and doing a lot of skiing waiting for some snow on the trails. Looks like Tug Hill is supposed to get a pretty serious lake effect dump this week so maybe a road trip will be in order.

Looking like a snowmobile exploded in my garage:

Skid rebuilt with new graphite slides and bearings:

Skid and track back in, ready for adjustment:

No sled for me.

The 800 skidoo I was working on had the same issue with the bolts on y pipe backing out. Some were completely missing. Even had to buy a set of long ball end hex sockets just to fix that one because they don’t leave enough room for normal tools…stupid skidoos :slight_smile:

Any of you guys on here gonna try some races for once? Maybe Andy will get the firekitty out for one again… SHCRA has been trying to get more hilldrags in WNY area. Lots of em out east, they have been trying to schedule one for almost every weekend. Arcade usually has snowdrags early Feb but Marathon might be same weekend…lots of high boost turbo stuff starting to come out lately…

No sled for me this year, but my brother does have an extra Skidoo this year that won’t get used much. I’ll probably just end up using that when he wants me to go riding with him.

Zero interest in drag racing (of any kind) for me.

If anyone else has a Skidoo, these are what you want for the y pipe bolts. Don’t get stranded like I did last year when they back out and you pop the exhaust gasket. They WILL back out. When I checked mine this year they were all at least 1/2 turn loose and one had backed out so far it was about to fall out.

$18 shipped for a 20 pack, you only need 8.

I’ll even offer to let fellow Speeders borrow the fancy new allen tool I got specifically for this job. * some restrictions apply, like if you’re one of those posters who does nothing but suck

1700 hard miles on it last year and hoping for another season like that this year. New X shocks all around 1.75" track all new bogies and slides re geared and clutched just waiting on the new skis and it will be ready to go!

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a302/Ridinred300/gade5_zps7204f6b1.jpg

This is how I’m accustomed to seeing Ski Doo’s so this looks normal to me.

No major changes this year except for a new set of Fox Evol’s up front. I thought my original Fox floats had seals which shit the bed but guess not. Evols were on the way so either I have an extra set of float’s or a set of floats for sale. Waiting on snow…again. Tug Hill was a plan even before the fall.

http://www.nyspeed.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34241&stc=1

Both of my twin spars are ready. I went through the 2007 F6 that I rode 1750 miles last year and the 2010 F8 that I picked up in October.

F6 got new slides, plugs and DD service. It’s for sale but if it doesn’t sell it will be a backup or something a friend can ride.

F8 got all its shocks rebuilt, plugs, pilot skis, DD service, refreshed clutches and a facelift. It came with a hideous sled wrap. I removed that, cleaned the plastics up and wrapped the tunnel black.

Broke it in a few weeks ago when we got a bunch of snow here around Rochester. Notice the F8’s old funky plastics.

There is a weather adviser for Tug Hill tonight through Friday. @Shockwave179 and I are hoping to go up Thursday/Friday if they get anything decent. Anybody joining?

Long track and 1.75… That’s a lot of track for the groomed hardpack we have here isn’t it?

I finally got my sled together last night. Hopefully we get some snow here before I get the itch to go up north. I’d rather not have the maiden voyage be 4-5 hours away.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o2BbZ0TDkco/VKNkAJS_FaI/AAAAAAAACFo/n5uAVQb8it4/w329-h585-no/2014-12-30.jpg

Probably, but I still have my 1.25" picked track incase i dont like it. Lot of my buddies are running 1.5" around here and are realy happy with them and everything i read said to just go 1.75" or you will wish you did down the road. Waiting on some snow so i can do some clutch tuning and see how well everthing works together

Yeah that’s a deep lug for a trail sled lol. My deep lug track for when the hillclimb conditions don’t favor the chisels isn’t even that much lug. And I have a solid 100 extra ponies on tap…haha. If it were me I would be putting that studded 1.25 back on it.

Have fun in the low snow conditions that are all too common here. I will say it looks cool all black though.

studded track has yellow backers on it… ew. It is a stiff lug track I went with it because of the reviews it had in hardpack, bought it used for cheap so no harm in trying. Also concerned i wouldnt have enough traction with the gearing and clutching that i did. Never ridden a sled with clutch or gearing changes so not sure how it will react other than what the internet says

^ Amen to this. I’ll be happy if I can at least take a couple runs up my street tomorrow morning before the plow hits it. :slight_smile:

Plastic backers I take it? I wish they would stop making those. Clutching is always good, so many people have no idea how much is left on the table when not putting a good clutch setup in. My old stocker sleds are proof of that one. Nothing better than surprising stock 160hp 800’s with a pig 140hp 800. Gearing is good depending on the sled. Some really don’t need to be geared down but actually benefit from being geared up. You’ll lose top end with that track but I imagine you don’t care since you geared down anyways.

Usually a track like the cobra 1.35 is a really good deeper lug track because its not as stiff of a lug, but the lug is cupped. Keeps em light for top end while providing good traction in the deeper stuff. Obviously wont have as long of a life though, but most new tracks don’t last like the older designs. They sure do work better.

after my house it turns into a seasonal road for .75 of a mile till it hits a main road. #countryperks

Correct, I don’t do any WOT lake runs or anything just trails and there aren’t any spots that I need tall gearing for really its all corner to corner type stuff as you know and this sled was an absolute dog compared to other 600’s I rode with. It wouldn’t backshift for shit in the deep stuff and I would have to seriously slow it down or stop or else it would just lug trying to pull. May have been due to worn out clutch stuff or just all of the belt dust that was in them but I wanted to make some changes anyways. Fortunately it is easy to revert any of the changes I made if I don’t end up liking it and I don’t imagine I wont like it lol. The only thing I am really concerned about is if I went too far with the gearing went from 23/43 to 19/45 I don’t know if I will be losing more top end than I wanted but we will see.

And yeah they are plastic backers and it is the main reason I ditched the track 2-3 studs were already missing and I don’t want to ruin the heat exchangers. Tons of them are cracked and just asking to be ripped out. I have never ridden a non studded sled so I don’t even know how I will like it and I am guessing Ill end up with a studded track again in the future. (if we ever get some snow)

  1. sounds like the clutch was opening too soon in deep snow and not closing quickly when decell. secondary spring too worn out, too soft, or helix angle is too steep. I would probably have tried a new or stiffer secondary spring, but make sure its still opening completely to not lose topend. you want the softest spring possible in the secondary while still giving good backshift.

  2. belt slipping - if clutches are aligned and belt deflection is good…if theres black rub marks in bottom of primary, go to stiffer engagement rate on primary spring. if theres black marks at top of primary, more tip weight in cam arms. make sure that belt is sitting a bit above top of secondary sheeve, not down in.

  3. as for the gearing…that may have been too much. you still running 10T drivers? for what it is, youre running a gear ratio that’s more for 500ft drag races…on the trail you might be running out of gear. keep an eye on how far the clutches are shifting out on a wide open run. take a sharpie and mark top to bottom of both primary sheave and secondary and run it. if the marking is completely gone its shifting out completely…if you see black rubbing marks on the top edge of the primary, expect to blow belts.

@95dime Yeah still have 10T drivers, clutch was bone stock I went from a 157/303 to a 225/303 and less angle on the helix in the secondary and went from a 160/320 to a 230/350 in the primary and put about 23g of weight in to start - based on what others are running with the setup I have, haven’t been able to do any testing yet. I probably will change the gearing I jumped the gun on those before I really did much research luckily they are cheap enough and in demand on dootalk i will be able to swap em out no problem.

I floated my secondary so i don’t have to dick around with aligning and shimming them, people on the forums have had good luck with it on these chassis and haven’t set the deflection yet as i haven’t gotten a new belt yet. If I am going to be blowing belts i will change it back, speed isn’t worth that much to me at $100 a pop for a ski doo belt

Wondering if the southern part of the hill/Oswego county got some decent riding snow yesterday/last night. I saw that Fulton opened last night.