Well strange thing has been happening…i power washed my engine bay after my fourth motor swap and it had slight misfires…now they went away after awhile and for about a month it was cool. Now after being parked in the rain the other night outside it has been running rough at idle after i start it up and wants to die,but after i run it for a lil bit it runs fine(only when motors cold). I took out my plugs and cleaned them along with dielectric grease as well. Helped a lil bit but the codes i pulled are kinda funny and are as follows…
P0102…low circuit MAF
P0134…02 sensor…Bnk 1 sens1
P0243…Selenoid malfunction
P0443…EVAP Emis Control Sys.purge valve C fault…
Now could something of gotten wet or is it something tottaly different? :doh:
wow, sounds like you messed some shit up gettin it all wet. did you start the car right after or let everything dry first?
did you try clearing them all to see if they came back? the MAF code will cause a rough idle, check your fuse box to see if any are blown too. low voltage could mean no power is getting to it. If not sounds like you need a new one
The idle is not rough,just wants to die as soon as the EGR is off andthe rpm’s come down,but if i give it gas for a lil bit it goes away and goes away totttaly after i run it fro about a mile or so. I have washed many mnay engine bays b4 and never had a problem like this,it wasn’t becasue of the actuall washing i think though.
if your MAF is dead your car will run but it’ll have to rely solely on MAP values, an evap problem will cause your car to wanna die too. Seriously check your fuse box first.
edit- it’s weird as hell that all these would go bad at once without a common cause
i will go do that but y would it go away if it a bad fuse after the car runs for a lil bit then? And by run i mean actaully running the car on the street,not just idle
well the fuses you would look for would be for the MAF and the O2 sensor. If those are okay then you would replace both sensors, then those codes should go away(no loose wires or anything). The evap solenoid would be the reason your car wants to die but I’m not even sure on how to go about fully diagnosing that problem.
Think i figured it out…i checked out back and found some wires that hit the headers and must of burnt the plastic tube and one wire was showing,so i taped it up and zip tied it out of the way as well as found my BBV selenoid line rubber boot end was dry rotted and cracked. So i replaced it as well and shut oss the SES light and it is not back on yet(knock on wood).:dunno:
lol I was gonna say to check that too, it’s pretty common to melt stuff back there. It should take about 50miles for the pcm to go through all the checks, after that if no light is on your good.