where can i get a 4pt cage fabbed up? i want a harnass bar in my car and a 4pt to stiffen up the rear of the car… dont say gforce cuz i heard they dont do it anymore
i was also thinking of taking measurments of a 2nd gen DSM and seeing how close the bar would be to my car, i may be able to make that work…
bolt in kits are available on th net for ~149 so for a full custom setup i dont think i should have to spend more then 250 er so
if you just need a 4pt get a bolt in…you’d be hard pressed to find anyone to put in that kind of labor for $250
yea… but i need a bolt in available for my car… i dont know 100% if a Dsm would fit or not
you can weld
make it fit
:word: whats the problem?
nah, i think he’s being lazy 
no i trust my welds, ive nver hever got a chance to measure the loop of a dsm i guess i should do that
big 'ol lol there… A cheap custom 6 point usually starts around $1500 and goes to $3000 for a super fine fit, I would only guess that a basic 4 point would be $500-$750 range.
I really wish I could recommend some to do the work, I really do… :roll:
But why do want only the rear stiff? Even if you don’t want to deal with a full cage I’d still attach a diagonal door bar to the driver/passneger footwell area.
If you go weld in, Procar here in Rochester does excellent work at good prices.
reason for the 4pt is i still daily drive the car and i am not gonna do any wheel to wheel racing so i really just want it for a harnass bar and to stiffen the rear of the car up a lil bit cuz being a hatchback it does have some flex
Yes. That is why I only suggested two diagnal bars and not two door hoops, a halo bar, four NASCAR bars and gussets to reinforce them all. It’s only four more welds to stiffen up all the car and not just half.
i just want to do something like this
So, now you don’t want to stiffen up the rear?
Because if you did you would have the down bars attaching to the top of the struts, a horizontal bar connecting those (like a strut bar) and then an X trianglating everything back to the main hoop.
Somethinge like this, although you can’t see the whole thing…
+1 The pic you posted will do jack shit for stiffening. Plus, the harness bar is in the spine compressor position and is completely wrong.
It looks like an El Cheapo Seat back Brace joe.
Non FIA approved seats (still must be non-reclining) are allowed to have the addition mount there to qualify as a “safe” seat.
the pic is actually of a SCCA runoff tib with an approved cage
yea i was gonna put a bracket across the shock towers
so if i took the main hoop connected the pieces going back to the strut towers then have a strut bar inbetween and an X brace on the two pieces going to the back struts then that woudl be fine?
do u think i can bend that piping with a manual bender like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/32800-32899/32888.gif
ends 6 different diameter pipes from 1/2" to 2". Bending bars can be adjusted to distances of 8-1/2", 11-1/4", 12", 16-3/4", 19-1/2" and 22-1/4". 2" diameter 12 ton jack. Jack capacities: 13-1/4" minimum; 22-3/4" maximum; 9-1/2" stroke. Precision cast dies.
* Round or square solid rod capacity: 2''
* Handle: 17-5/8"
* Overall size: 24" wide, 6-1/2" deep and 21-1/2" high.
* Shipping weight: 117 lbs.
then id just have to get a tubing nother
ala this guy
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/42300-42399/42324.gif
A safe cage and a good cage are two different things.
Yes that cage would meet safety requirements, but it does not mean that it is the optimal design.
As far as the tubing bender, I have heard that they are crap. I, or someone, has this one…
http://vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
Once I can determine ownership I can say weather you can use it or not. I have the dies for 1.5" tubing 4.5" radius. You would have to buy addition dies if you wanted larger tubing.
Yes you could get the bolt in one pictured and then start adding peices to it. It will look like crap as my NX2000 started with an Autopower bolt in cage and then had peices added to it, and still could benefit from a true custom cage.
In the case of the one pictured the loading of forces coming through the tire to the strut and then to whatever you fabbed up would be all “silly”. Without getting deep into it you would want the end of the bar to be on the top of the strut (as close as reasonably possible), then those force will be distributed to the main cage…