:tup: This car is going to be ridiculous. Sooooo hot.
-edit- Not to hijack, but do you know where I can get spotweld cutter parts around here?
Your progress is >>>>>>>>>>>>>> mine so I need to keep movin’.
I honestly don’t know where to get it. Call around some machine shops and ask around.
Get yours done for Spring. I was pushing mine for March for the World of Wheels, but I’d rather test and tune my car before bringing it to a show, even if that means missing the show. That way I can do it right and there will be plenty of time to play with a safe and reliable car 
Miss the show if you need to. No point in having to do the work twice.
I do want to drive mine for summer :tup: On February 5th, MAC Antique Auto is supposed to be open in their new location in Lockport - I took the day off. Their cover car for Mustangs is a '68 Highland Green Fastback. 
If you’re free we should head down there.
you better have your car done for the show joe :)…it’ll be the only reason i attend
Very, Very, Nice… I like that cluster you got there.
Keep it up!
Look, 2 days in a row with updates!
New springs installed. 2" drop Hotchkis
Slight difference? 
Before:
After:
Plus it should drop some more once they break in and I add the radiator, PS pump, alternator, battery, etc.
But wait, there’s more!
Being that we did the swap from a small block to a big block, one difference in the engine compartment is the heater core cover. The small block cover is too close to the valve cover on the big block. So there is a kit to make the cover work with a big block heater core. I removed the heater unit from under the dash and the heater core.
I cleaned it up and will be repainting it since it is out.
I also did this without having to remove the heater core cover, which is a pain in the a$$ needing to take the hood, fender, and inner fender. No thanks.
Next, install the big block heater plate and drill some holes and then reassemble.
lookin good joe! once it settles and you have your wheels on it, it’ll look badass :rockon:
where did you get your sodablasting done?
Jessie, aka suzukiriderman on here.
All i did to run the heater core after going to BBC was take the front cover piece off on the firewall (was able to leave hood, fenders, etc. on) and turn the heater core around so the inlet/outlet tubes are on the other side of the cover. All ya gotta do is line up the tubes with the cover on the other side and drill holes for them to come out and they pop out over there leaving plenty of room to run your hoses. The kit you have is probably more ballAr but you can do this “mod” easily & free.
Actually, I just bought the big block heater core. I took off the heater cover under the dash and will be drilling the holes in the heater core cover.
I needed a new core since the last one was crap.
Did you use anything to hold the heater core to the firewall, like a metal strap?
Not that long. I was their first test rat. I think it was there for a week.
Jessie can correct me on that one.
ahem Updates?
[quote=“TrueBlue,post:334,topic:13530"”]
ahem Updates? 
[/quote]
You should talk
I installed the from window stainless and also put the 700r4 crossmember on. Pretty boring stuff.
I ordered $120 more of parts. I have to swap the heater core out and drill 2 holes in my newly painted heater core 
I’ll have a new power steering pump this weekend and get that project finished also.
I talked with my painter and I’ll probably trailer it to his shop in March / when the snow melts and finish up the underside and install the all new stainless steel brake lines
Wheels possibly will be ordered in the beginning of next week, then take up to 5 weeks
I might have a line on your electric fans, I’ll know more this weekend.
[quote=“TrueBlue,post:336,topic:13530"”]
I might have a line on your electric fans, I’ll know more this weekend.
[/quote]
Excellent. I know 2 other people looking for them too, but me first
Placed the order for my wheels today
I found out that they have soft lip for the same price as standard lip.
18x8 in front and 18x9 in the rear. Should have them in 2-3 weeks 