i have a 94 acura integra ls with 196,xxx miles on it. and starting Friday night it just shuts off while driving. its happened twice. once going ~70 on the 90 and tonight going 45 on transit. the car just shuts itself off like someone turned the key. tonight i had cruise control on when it did it on the 90 i did not. im thinking its crank sensor related or something like that? i really have no idea when it comes to hondas. let me know if any of you have any insight. thanks in advance
Hmmm, thats pretty weird but it could be many things. Did you check the battery connection first? I once had a loose terminal that wold come off once in a while. Could be bad main relay, thermostat ground, bad ECU, etc… what else is it doing when it shuts off? is it losing power completely or just the engine dies but everything else stays on?
completely off or just motor shutting off? does it start right back up?
A friend had this happen on a 92 teg, ended up being the distributor, 94 is when the body style changed, idk if the motor changed, not a honda guy but good luck
My distributor went on my 91 years ago, but I couldn’t re-start it so not sure if that would be it or not.
i’ll talk to you in person this afternoon, so i wont have to type a book. theres a number of things it could be.
Similar symptoms when I had the dizzy go out in my CRX. It would also stumble, and the tach wouldn’t hold steady.
It could also be the main relay, but that’s usually a starting issue when it gets hot out. The solder on the contacts crack, and the heat causes them to separate.
sounds like an ignition coil. happened to me this past summer. it left me in the middle of sheridian stratching my head.
its one of two things, its either spark related or fuel related.
Honda reccomends the fuel filters to be changed every 60k, raise your hand if youve EVER done one on a honda.
a fuel filter being clogged cuts you our at higher speeds more often than idle.
I’m also going to agree with rex2nr about it being a dizzy issue, it could also be that.
I dont think its the main relay, however its winter time, and if the heats pumping inside the vehicle mainly on the floor, it is possible to recreate the symptoms of a car sitting outside in the sun, and the cracks expanding with heat in the solder.
there isnt going to be a for sure fix for something like this.
I’d look at your coil, and check inside the cap while you have it apart, for arching or burns. if you havent done plugs, pull one and take a look.
your basic tune up, of cap, wires, plugs, fuel filter, is very cheap insurance if it hasnt been done recently.
I believe the coil for a honda/ acura is very cheap aswell.
Crank trigger was the first thing that came to my mind.
edit. i forgot to add that if i pull over and come to a stop and turn the key off and sit for a few seconds. the car starts right back up. it took longer to start on the 90 tho
everything else stays on the car is just not running. if i try to restart it while moving it just cranks and wont start.
Sounds like the ignition coil/distributor.
check the thermostat area wiring harness ground, if its loose or iffy fix it. I would open up the ecu and check for corrosion, somtimes they get full of water and junk and intermittantly die, ive seen this on accords too. All else fails, substitute a known good distributor and try that, but try the others first.
check: plugs, wires, fuel filter… do a tuneup as karter said to make sure
it’s kind of going to be hard to diagnose if it doesnt happen all the time
My car would cut out at like 4500rpms on the highway sometimes, and it wouldnt let me go faster until it dropped below 3000rpms or something… it’s the dizzy
could be anything, check if you’re timing is somehow off
alternator? idk lol
update. car still does the same thing. i replaced:
fuel filter
spark plugs
wires
distributor/ignition coil etc.
i have no idea what it is at this point. does it all speeds too. anywhere from 5th gear going 40 to 5th gear going 95 and anywhere in between. gonna go check to see if theres any codes but im stuck at this point
id say check/ replace main relay. after it shuts off. dose the fuel pump still prime and the check engine light on the cluster go away follows by a click noise?
ill work at it next weekend when i come back from school. its throwing code 15 which is “ignition output signal” im sick of testing shit on the car, continuity is good on the black w/ yel from distributor to ignition and yel w/ green to the ecu so maybe its the ICM? i have no idea.
in my track car i have the same thing happen but i just have to shut the key off and right back on quik with out ever pushing the clutch in and it turns right back on like im just loosing power
i tried the main relay as well. thought that was it but the problem is still there.