98 AWD Spyder - roller or running.

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Right now there is no engine or transmission in it, but the rear end and driveshaft is in, waiting for a engine/tranny/tcase. I have driven this car everywhere, ive put well over 20,000 miles on it as an awd car and loved every minute of it. If I wasn’t getting another spyder to convert – I wouldn’t even be thinking about selling this.

I Have no problem getting this car running if you get me all the stuff it needs

Here’s what the car is:

98 Red Spyder GS Auto converted to AWD with a 96 parts car (no parts car comes with – its not needed)
Factory NON ABS CAR!
Cruise control is still wired in, just need pump and stuff for it to work.
Has faded and cracked CF hood - would be good painted factory red
Clean title (cheaper insurance since its titled as a GS :smiley: )
All wiring, Welding, and cutting has been done. Just needs engine and tranny.
Has single piston GST calipers up front. I can put on gsx dual pistons for a price though…
Stock GSX suspension
Sway bars front and rear
will come on stock swirly rims
Car right now is wired for an evo 8 ecu, and speed density but to switch back to MAF would be a 1 wire solder job.
2 step works and i wired the clutch in for NLTS to evo ecu.
5 speed swap. only problem is reverse lights dont work, but i never really needed them or cared…but if you want i can wire in the manual reverse switch to make em work.
Brake lines replaced all around with rubber lines
STM master > slave clutch line

Heres what will be needed to get the car driving on the street:
Engine with all sensors
Transmission
Flywheel
Clutch/pp
Slave cyl
Axles
Transfer case.
Exhaust
Windshield (ive driven it everywhere with whats in it, but unless you know someone it wont pass inspection)
Evo 8 ECU, or i have a stock gsx ecu i could wire in.

Everything else is there and ready to go. I have a TON of extra parts too, so if you want to pick the car up with a head, block, and have them built and swap in your tranny that would work as well. I just don’t have time (or money) right now to do this and the others.
Heres pics, threads, and videos of everything I have on the car (online). All work was done by me as well, and if you have any problems or questions I will be more than willing to help you out or solve them for you!

http://www.mitsu-media.com/showthread.php?t=11367 < Build Thread
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPDkmjf1Qyw < drag video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjUyrmzAuoM <drag video 2 – I won!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUIBRgiMZIw < driving in the hills down in Arkansas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jrcF294nOY < video of rust, and when the engine spun the balance shaft bearing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7VBnzSdtX0 < Video of the HX35 on the car. This was the 3r d trip to Arkansas with this car.
http://s824.photobucket.com/albums/zz170/hortanica/GSX%20Spyder/?action=view&current=2011-04-22_18-45-18_475.mp4 < Friend revving it (Next to white spyder im picking up from the south) video
http://s824.photobucket.com/albums/zz170/hortanica/GSX%20Spyder/ < build photo album

Make me offers on it. It needs a lot of body work, but for an awd spyder - the hard work is already done! Also open to trades…

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Rad. GLWS

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If this gets parted I’d take the top motors

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Is it just strut tower rust or is the undercarriage and wheel wells bad as well? Pm me as to a ballpark price of what you’re looking for as is.

Sent from my DROID Pro using Tapatalk 2

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Deathproof they are yours if it does…

The driver side strut tower is the only bad rust. the wheel wells are still solid, which is why i kept it. passenger side tower is fine, underside is fairly clean. could use a good sanding and undercoating. only other rust through spots are in the trunk on the sides where, on every 2g ive had have been rusted out (under the trunk plastics where the drains go through) nothign an hour with fiberglass wouldnt take care of, i just never cared enough to do it. It also has the core support I picked up from you a couple years ago now (at least im 99% sure it was you) you have pm though.