a SERIOUS coilover review thread.

I don’t know a lot about this stuff, but I would assume because of a few reasons.

  1. Having an adjustable pre-load is convenient. If I wanted to tighten my car up for a track day, I do can it in 30 minutes or less. Changing the springs would take a lot longer and would be costly… especially if I use my coils for more than 1 or 2 types of driving I might want 3-4 different pre-load “setups”.

  2. Cost? :slight_smile:

  3. What is the advantage of running less preload? It’s not a big deal as far as I can tell. Mine is set very low right now and I’m going to play with it when I get some time - as far as I know there is no disadvantage to it.

Again, this response was entirely assumptions so don’t quote me.

A quick google backed up my claims 100%:

just look at the graphs for quick proof…

non linear examples: (there is an infinite number of possible curves but here are a few)
http://www.prosig.com/signal-processing/nonlincal/fig1s.jpghttp://www.prosig.com/signal-processing/nonlincal/fig2s.jpghttp://www.prosig.com/signal-processing/nonlincal/fig3s.jpg
http://www.prosig.com/signal-processing/nonlincal/fig4s.jpghttp://www.prosig.com/signal-processing/nonlincal/fig5s.jpghttp://www.prosig.com/signal-processing/nonlincal/fig6s.jpg

linear: (any linear graph will look identical):
Quote to go along with this pic:
“A linear spring is a spring where the force that stretches the spring is in direct proportion to the amount of stretch. That is, the force vs. extension graph forms a straight, positively sloped line that passes through the origin, like this:”

“The slope of this graph is called the spring constant and is symbolized by the letter k. The spring constant in the above graph is 20 Newtons per meter, or 20 N/m. This means that you would need 20 Newtons of force to stretch the spring one meter, or 2 Newtons of force to stretch the spring 0.1 meter, and so on.”

Thats basically exactly what I said above, just in reverse because the are talking about stretching a spring instead of compressing it.

Did I kill this thread? It was crazy for a couple of days and now nothing :frowning:

I’ll delete my posts if that helps! It was going great…

would you mind putting somthing in that is easier to read,

so basically you found compressing a non progressive spring rate spring does or dosent effectivly make it stiffer?

Haha, sorry. I guess you really need to pay close attention to the more technical posts to understand them properly sorry for confusing you.

Anyway, Iquabob was incorrect and compressing a linear spring WILL make it a stiffer ride.

Anyone heard about KTS Type-B coils? Apparently they are in line with the Silk Road RM/A8’s… 8kg/6kg, 15-way adjustable shocks, and are apparently rebuildable for about $550…

http://www.splparts.com/Parts/S13/Suspension/Coilovers/default.asp

http://www.splparts.com/Parts/SilviaShared/Suspension/Coilovers/KTSCoilovers.jpg

get anything with a warranty and can be rebuilt in north america. KEI office coils cannot be rebuilt here, they must be sent back to japan im certain, and if you know where they can be rebuilt let me know.

Safest way is to go D2’s, teins, and cusco’s, good price and good quality, along with a nice warranty and cheap rebuilding prices. hks is rediculously priced, but you get what you pay for

I have my eye on these… bunch of people rate them above the Megans and to be able to have them completely replaced (according to splparts.com) @ $550 seems like a good deal. But I cannot find info on who makes them or what their a copy of etc “didnt look hard” or how long the (replace them @ $550 deal) last, my guess is just a 1yr warranty or what not. But even if that is the case, @ the end of the year you can get a brand new set for half the price ?

From what I gather, you can replace the shock within the coilover system for $550, so it isn’t a warranty thing, they are just mentioning how easy/cheap they are to rebuild… (parts come from the USA, local support etc).

Let me know if you are going to order them, perhaps we can get a deal for 2 or more sets.

Check this out for an install review and lots of pics: http://www.coldfire07.com/s14/alb-080904.shtml

this thread is very informative. however i have not heard of anyone mention
kei office? i know you currently have to have them shipped to japan for rebuilds, but i
recently read this on drift-factory web site:

Q: Where can I have my coilovers rebuilt?

We are currently able to have Kei Office coilovers rebuilt. The price depends on the type and complexity of the coilover. At this time we are shipping coils to Japan for rebuilds but Kei Office is setting up a rebuild center here in the US and before long you will be able to have your coils rebuild state side. If you are interested in having your coils rebuilt, feel free to call us at 805-520-1796.

i am looking into coils in probably a couple months. just want to know if anyone here
is runnig on kei office, and what they think of them?

peace

Megan Racing … well I have heard that they are like most ofther entry level coils. They are stiff.

Enjuku racing uses Megan coilovers (not necessarily by choice) on their Formula D cars.

I’ve heard a lot of good things about Zeal, but I don’t usually trust Forums as “feedback.” Way too many people simply want to justify spending what they did.

Abuse isn’t what destroys coilovers. With oil filled cartridges/dampers, every complete stroke shortens their life.

ALL COILOVERS MUST BE SERVICED

Just like regular suspension, they wear out.

Race cars do not face the same stresses as day to day driving.

A race car might see 100kms after an entire day at the track. Typically, you drive 200km to the track, 200 km back.

Drive on shit Toronto roads for a few KM and your suspension probalby strokes 1000 times.

And as for having to send your coilovers here or there … has anyone actually looked into getting them done locally? There’s tons of suspension places in TO. There’s a guy just down the road from me who is an authorized Bilstein suspension servicing joint. To rebuild a coilover, 99% of the time all they do is change the o-rings/seals and refill with oil.

If you’ve got an old Nissan or Toyota AE86, this is part of the regular service. Newer cars run gas-filled shocks which the average joe can’t refill.

In my crusty old Nissan manual, they even recommend different viscosity oils for heavy duty application. I ran mine with gear oil and whoa …

People should really look into getting custom suspension made.

There’s this company that MSSC has been looking into called Visiontech out of Quebec. They build custom coilovers with external reservoirs, adjustable dampening/rebound and stroke, height adjustability etc for about $2,000 cdn.

As for spring rates, it’s pretty simple.

Here’s a great link for all you S13/14 guys with spring rates for pretty much any possible configuration and even uber cheese stock rates.

http://www.onlydominican.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=471&sid=a330fbf90f5a284ec56bdc0e18130c57

KG/MM or lb/in is all the same. How much weight it takes to compress the spring X distance.

My new coilovers are an 8 kg/mm (450 lb-in)

It takes 8kg of weight/pressure to compress the spring 1 mm. Or, it takes 450 lbs to compress it 1 inch.

This is where preload comes into effect. If you were to install 450lb springs in a car that weighs 2,000lbs …

2,000lbs / 4 (per wheel) = 500 lbs

the car will drop 1 inch on the springs. The springs will no longer be 450lbs (except unless you’re airborn :wink:

When you compress a spring, it increases the spring rate, just like cutting it (different reasons, but same effect)

This is why different spring rates in different cars have different effects.

My car has 8/6 (450/350) setup, but only weighs 2,400lbs. This same setup would “feel” softer in a heavier car. Look at Tein’s spring rates for big heavy turds like the SC400/Soarer. I think they’re about 16 in the front, but feel “cushy” by comparison.

In all honesty there’s no difference between “real” coilovers, sleeves and spring/damper combo beyond presentation.

True you have more adjustability, but this adjustability is very very very rarely done properly by the user beyond ride height. Beyond that, you’ll never really notice a difference on the street. On the race track, driving to the “extreme” you will, but at that point, all the lower settings seem a bit pointless.

99% of people with coilovers would be more than happy with good adjustable dampers and springs with decent spring rates, not crappy Eibach or ST springs with about 30% stiffer than stock rates. STs are about 200 lb-in … which is what, 2kg? These setups are purely for looks and maintaing stock driveability.

I had a 7/6 setup before with KYBs and CM springs, and it was very stiff but very streetable. I stepped up to the 8 because of the new engine (~400lbs) and because I wanted it slammed. Stupid cars came with 6" (no joke) fender gap from the factory, so 3" drop springs weren’t enough.

I could probably setup or at least help setup a GB for CM coils. They’re from Langley BC and even with the extra prototype cost (I had them made for the S12, we needed to sell 15 sets to get them to start production … after 10, they started them anyway and added them to the catalog) I got 4 to my door for $190 cdn tax and shipping included.

It would be great to get a few S13/14s together and do some testing of various setups, provided someone with half a clue how to set up suspension sets up all the cars.

People should really be buying big ass sways way before considering 12/10 coilovers. Running crazy coilovers with stock S13 hollow bars (or S14s without rear bars) is just … uhm … yeah.

Why does someone not get a set of AGX and Springs and use a adjustable Coilover sleeve on those?? see how it works

I’d like to read up more on these CM racing springs. Do they have a site?

because a AGX strut/shock does not come a part like a coil over would to give you the option of having a “adjustable sleeve”

if you want to use a shock/spring combo… you need a few sets of springs “all of which have different ride heights” and you changed your springs based on the height you want. so just get a coilover.

Ya but if you took off the part that holds the spring you could get one of those cheap coil spring, put it on and replace the crappy spring with a good one

ohhhhh, i got’cha now…

^^^ use those cheap sleeve coils with the AGX ? so you have a bit of height control plus the damping control ?

i myself would never touch one of those sleeves… even with the AGX. And (just guessing) AGX brand new = $600cdn roughly? and those sleeves are about $100cdn. so for $700… i’d save a bit more and get coilovers or you could get used D2s as everyone seems to be selling theirs but those I’d also never buy.

Yo can do this with the AGX shocks. Company has done this in the states, however you do not get the adjustable sleve like Jeff said. You cannot keep the same stroke length of the shock without this adjustable sleve. Also, u cannot set up preload.

Now, not all coilovers have this adjustable sleve, many coilovers just have one adjustable collar for bottom spring perch.

Andrew.

Ya that I do know, It would be just for hight adjustment,

for example,

Kyb and Siprtlines, Look great in the back but sit an inch to high in the front,

if you could adjust them you can just lower the front that 1 inch and then have it looking sweet, but still perform good

I believe kei office coilovers have been mentioned numerous times in this thread, I mentioned it as well. FYI that site that offers this “kei office rebuild center” is completely wrong. I called them, they are located in California, but “THEY DO NOT REBUILD COILOVERS” they told me themselves that they would try to put something together after the new year, but that was just BS. Yes, they are a liscensed retailer for kei office coils, they only offer you credit toward your coils and try to convince you to go new by adding another 500$ for per coilover, mind you thats in USD. As for kei office im having doubts about they’re integrity, they’re site has been down since September and offer no help of any kind, even if you wanted to have your coilovers sent to them to get rebuilt, you would have no idea what to do.

Hey guys,

Just thought I would jump in here and give you some of my personal experience.

I have D2’s on my car with a 7/5 setup. Great blend of street to track setup. In the soft settings it is still allot of firm then stock, but still comfortable until you hit pot holes. Very bad. I did have one of the front struts start to go. It started to make some funny noises. I talked to D2 about replacement, it was around 80 bucks U.S. and got a 40 buck credit for shipping it back. All in all I think I had it installed and sent back and was out less then 150 buck after labour. Now I’m not to sure about you guys but I thought that was CHEAP!!!.

So serving D2’s are pretty good and not that much money. Oh and I got the new strut in like 2-3 days, like I said not bad.

I am however toying with the idea of buy the Tein FLEX setup with the EDFC. I just really like the idea of being able to change the setting from inside the car while driving. They cost something like 2000-2500. So not sure if I will do this just for that.

If I do go for the swap I would likely sell my setup for like $700. There is no way that they have more then 10,000klm on them. They still look new and drive GREAT.

PM if any interest or questions, hope some of my info helps you guys out there.

Oh also I know that the D2 will like you adjust the ride height without affecting the spring, can the megan do that?

Later guys

CVM07

Sorry guys I forgot to mention that new springs in what ever rates you want can be purchased direct from them at a cost of $150 plus shipping. So if you want to have a couple of sets it’s not that big of an investment.

CVM07