I believe its stronger, consistent power for plugs. I was convienced by Spoon and BuddyClub when they talk about grounding kit. Why do you upgrade spark plugs wire, spark plugs but not the battery?
Many little things add ups in a well modified car.[/quote]
Convinced by spoon and buddy club?
How is one battery stronger than another? All batteries have amperage ratings for different temperatures etc. They flow the required current for a given load at a certain voltage. I fail to see how one battery is going to have better and stronger electrons than another. One amp is one amp no matter what car battery you use so I don’t understand how yours would be “stronger”.
Why do you change spark plug wires, grounds, etc?
All these things are bottlenecks for current flow. They do not have the same potential for current flow that a battery does. Changing these things to larger size wires obviously does help greatly since it keeps voltage drop to a minimum which in turn keeps current draw for a specific load lower. It also will generate less heat and less heat means less resistance.
I’m not trying to start a fight with you or be a smart ass,i’m just giving my opinion on the subject. I’d bet the battery you have is made by some normal battery manufacturer and is just relabelled by nissan or whoever.[/quote]
As i recalled. A quality battery can be way lighter yet still delivery very consistent crank and power. The ratings from most manufractures labelled doesnt tell you the consistency of the power. They explain how in endurance race, such things are essentially important. In the video i watched the test of a car with a grounding kit and upgraded battery remains more power of the few laps. If you do spark plugs, you know how the distance of the tip is important right? Its the same idea…
The one i got is made by Furajita manufractured. Ofcourse Nissan doesnt make battery lol,
Many haters/ricers here may think i’m stupid or JDM ricers. I also have Nismo rad caps with lower temp thermostat. I guess they will ask how many HP i gain lol
I’m actually debated about it. I was told NOT to charge the battery myself as i think its Dry-cell. I dont know but the damn thing were written Japanese all over it. The Manufracture is Frujakta or something.[/quote]
when your car runs your alternator always chrages the battery, this is the safest way[/quote]
alesser; where are you getting this info? THe alternator is to run any/all 12V power sources and replace the small charge the battery uses to start the car…[/quote]
haha wow, its common sense, try this than, start yoru car and unhook the battery every time, it’ll die in a week, the battery in a car isnt a regular battery, its a rechanragable ‘accumulator’, the alternator always charges it, omfg, did stupidity raise on this forum, not gonna bother anymore…
if a battery is allowed to get really cold on a low or empty charge, you will kill the battery unless you get really lucky
but I can laugh at the mania with this jdm tyte electrolyte box, it’s been proven copper ngk plugs work as good or better than the fancy split tip platinums, why would a battery that’s designed to buffer voltage spikes and create a reservoir for starting the vehicle make any difference?
batteries come in all shapes and sizes, about the only thing relevant you could change is whether it’s a deep cycle or quick discharge type, deep cycle batteries produce less amps longer and take longer to charge, the normal quick type is faster to discharge so you get higher current but can also accept fast charges
the alternator is supposed to supply all necessary electricity for a car to function once started
some people choose to use ultra-light batteries as if saving 8lbs will mean something, but that at least has something quantitative behind it, not some “superiority” bullshit
just get battery that fits, with as many CCA as you need out of it, I usually go with ct’s 72 size for cars, even when the car needs a smaller one, it’s like having an extra can of gas in the trunk, it doesn’t hurt to have extra amp/hrs on tap
really isn’t there a switch (can’t remember the term) that ends the charging process once the battery is full, it doesn’t always charge it.
And out of example where I work we stored 20+ cars for winter and 2 guys (S2000 and 71 camero) both said that they wanted to charge their batterys’ as the alternator shouldn’t be used for charging the battery.
but you failed to answer my question, where did you get your info?
Remember, this does not replace charging the battery. A car’s alternator is not designed to fully restore a depleted battery, but rather to maintain a healthy one. As soon as possible, put your battery on a battery charger such as the Battery Tender, and a give it a full charge for a day or two.
and another; http://forums.p.legend.org/first/msgs/3185.phtml
“An alternator is not designed to charge a fully discharged battery. If the battery is completely dead it needs to be charged with a charger before driving otherwise you will overwork the alternator and you can kill it.”
THIS IS THE PROBLEM WITH FORUMS, CHOOSE YOUR ADVICE WISELY,
I personnally do not post something as advice UNLESS I KNOW ITS CORRECT, and if I don’t my language will indicate it is merely an educated guess
actually for once i agree with darian… charging a completely dead battery is not alt friednsly, sure 99% of the time you’ll get away with it… how ever if u try and do this too many times your alt will die… i let my alt recharge mine durign the winter and while it might not have been in great shape this stress killed it and i had to pick up a new alt
Remember also that every time a battery “dies” and gets “recharged”, it never actually fully recharges. Recharging a dead battery more than once or twice is not advised…it will become decreasingly capable of holding a charge.
At least that’s how i’ve always understood it…for what it’s worth.
alesserfate your wrong. How many volts does the car have running with a good battery and alt we’ll say about 14volts. The more load you put on that battery (lights, subs, etc) the more amps the alt has to put out to keep that 14volts. When your cars of the battery should have 12.6volts. 6cells 2.1volts per cell. When your battery is below that 12.6 volts that alt is putting out a higher amprage cause of the battery being low. Ever heard of a avr test buddy. Our cars alt puts out 80amps max, with all you acc on in the car I doupt it passes 60amps with a good battery. Before you say the stupidity level on this forum raised check your self. If you can do it and get away with it doesn’t mean it’s the right way.