So the time has come for me to face reality… the sunshine doesn’t last all winter here like it does in California, so I need to start thinking about storing baby Sally for winter.
I’m moving into a new place that has a garage in two weeks, so at least I don’t need to have it stored someplace else. Since I’ve never stored a vehicle I’ve been doing some research on what I should do to prep the car. Obviously this is still at least a month out but I want to begin thinking about it now. Here’s what I’ve read, and some questions I’ve come up with. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
Make sure the garage is dry. I’m not sure what I should do if it turns out not to be dry… I obviously don’t want her sitting in wet air slowly rusting. Should I run a dehumidifier, even though I can see that getting pretty costly…?
Add a fuel stabilizing additive to the gas, and fill the tank. Any suggestions on a brand? Does it even matter if I get a certain brand versus a cheaper version? I don’t like the idea of guess and hope for the best.
Change the oil (thank you, Porsche, for making me use 10 quarts everytime I change the oil :roll: ). Should I go ahead and switch from 15w-50 down? Last winter (which was my first snowy, non-California winter) was only “mild” according to most people I talked to here in Rochester… Do winter temps here typically stay below 32F? If so, then I’d maybe go down to 5w-30… but if they generally stay between 32 and 50F, then I’d go to 10w-30. Does it even matter if I’m not actually running the vehicle? I’d, of course, run the vehicle for a short amount of time to make sure the new oil gets circulated.
Put the car up on jacks to relieve pressure from the tires. Then I read another website (here) that said this was bad given that with modern independent suspension it’s not good to leave the suspension “unsprung.” Instead, they suggest upping the psi to 40-45 (since it will drop with the temperature), which will prevent flatspotting and leaks. I don’t have a clue which of these is best (in general, or for my vehicle specifically).
Wash and wax the car, wheels and interior really well.
Disconnect the battery. A Porsche specific website had this to say about removing the battery altogether: [size=2]"[/size]It should be pointed out that in many of the newer Porsche’s (such as 993’s) you may end up disabling the security access code if you remove the battery. You may in fact need to leave the car unlocked so you can get back into it, and may need to have the security code reprogrammed (by a dealer service center). Yikes! It may be better for those cars to leave the battery installed and make sure you have it on a trickle charger." Should I use a trickle charge to protect the battery while it’s still in the car?
Cover the vehicle with a car cover and make sure the tires are protected from the sun.
Park on a plastic/vinyl sheet and put cardboard underneath the vehicle to catch any extra moisture.
I read many places that it is NOT recommended to start the car every once and a while, because that will create moisture in the exhaust, which will remain there and possibly rust.
Several websites have suggested either removing the spark plugs, or loosening the plugs and shooting either fogger oil or motor oil into the holes to prevent corrosion. I’ve also read it’s a good idea to squirt WD-40 into the cylinders and air intakes, then turning the engine over a few times with a wrench (and repeat this every three months). It’s a major PITA for me to get to my spark plugs. I’m not 100% sure, but we think I might have to drop the engine to get to them. Is doing all this really necessary? Please say no, please say no, please say no…
Store desiccants in the car to prevent mildew and keep leather from deteriorating. I had to look up desiccants, but this seems like a good idea?
Check antifreeze to be sure it’s appropriate for estimated temps.
Release seats so that the backs are as far forward as possible… since they use springs and springs do have a memory. This is anal, but I figured since I read it, I’d throw it in here too. Couldn’t hurt, right? Wait, I have electric back seats. I have no idea if they still use springs… I feel like an idiot for not knowing that.
Cover openings, such as the exhaust to keep moisture/rodents/etc. out.
Your check list is pretty good. I know there are some search topics on here but you pretty much have it down. Like Newman said you dont have to get to crazy with it.
here’s some of my thoughts/what I do, at least on the steps I’ve heard before…
Stabil has always worked for me
I’d advise against periodic running to circulate the oil…When you’re ready to take it out again, pull the fuse for the fuel pump/injectors and crank the starter long enough to build oil pressure then replace the fuse and away you go. I’ve also heard to change the oil just before you store it and just before you start to drive it again
I just add pressure to the tires…never had any issues with flat spots
If you do trickle charge the battery be sure to get a charger that senses when the battery is charged so that it only charges when necessary
See #3 above
never heard of that
Arm & Hammer makes a box of baking soda perfect for storing cars. you take the sides off the box, put inside, and it keeps the car for getting musty
Yeah, I meant that I would run the car for a short while right after I changed the oil before storing, so that it was circulated. I wouldn’t run it periodically just to do that. Hadn’t thought about changing the oil again before I start to drive it come nicer weather… I can’t see how it would hurt.
to sum up all you really need is a decent cover & a trickle charger plugged into a Timer switch so it kicks on for say 20 mins a day to throw some juice in the battery. and a breatheable cover to keep moisture out and dirt/dust spider droppings (pita) off of the car while stored. a box of baking soda cant hurt either.
Something to keep rodents out of nesting in the vehicle cant hurt either.
mothballs, hifrequency rodent chaser, ball python.
Nothing funnier than fireing up a car after winter storage and having a pound of sunflower seeds & walnuts fly out of the tail pipe. from a packrat (squirrel).
i just pull the car up front of my garage, put the car cover on it and leave it for the 5-6 month winter… i wash and wax it b4 i put it away with a fresh oil change and a nice full tank of gas. ill let the car run for about 20 mins every 2 weeks or so… dont have any problems
I would use a trickle charger. After being stored from Nov-April, the S2000’s tiny battery didn’t have enough juice to tackle the 11:1 compression and we had to use a jumper pack.
Just adding tire pressure works fine. Make sure to keep your race tires in a climate-controlled place though. Heat cycles + extreme cold kill R-comps.
I wouldn’t worry about the plugs or lubing the cylinder walls, they’ll be fine.
Cassie, if you want, I can go over the CORRECT storage methods with you. I just dont feel like typing it up right now. Either call me or come over. I’ve only done this, you know, a few times.
as long as it’s fairly fresh, do it in the spring, before you start it up the first time - don’t change weight, you won’t start it thus don’t need the cold-start protection of a thinner weight (you’d want 5w50 like the new Platinum stuff btw)
I would buy those rubber anti-flat-spot pads you park on if anything
yes, and maybe put in a mouse trap or two under / around the car
that one is up in the air, if your garage has power, yeah, a trickle-charger is smart, but I’d just store the battery in your basement ON A SET OF 2x4 boards, NOT ON CONCRETE (kills batteries)
good idea re: shit dripping etc on the car. if there are, a nondescript car cover might be a nice theft deterrent too
i would think that unless you have a MAJOR moisture problem on the concrete / or a dirt floor this is unnecessary
correct, bad idea.
absolutely terrible idea it’s not a 60s rustang
VERY good idea
it’s not Fargo ND and you’re on OEM coolant, should be fine.
waste of time / retarded
rodents is the key here, don’t ask how I know an OILY rag in the tail pipes is good, it reduces the chances of (surface) rust and the oil should also discourage a rat from pulling it out to use as a nest material. also totally overkill though, me, I wouldn’t bother.
WORST idea I’ve read. do it in the spring - brake fluid is Hydroscopic - aka it absorbs moisture, so why the heck would anyone do it BEFORE letting it sit and absorb 3 months of moisture, vs doing it before driving the car? :shoot: porsche n00bz on the 986 forums (like mister hocky-puck-jack-pad moron from last night lol)
Mike: Oh I most certainly will be calling you. I just wanted to make sure I’m not missing something huge, in case I need to buy stuff in preparation for the prep, heh. Want to make sure I have my bases covered before the night before I decide to store it.
Dave: Shouldn’t you be on your way to Georgia? But thanks for suggestions.
an OILY rag in the tail pipes is good, it reduces the chances of (surface) rust and the oil should also discourage a rat from pulling it out to use as a nest material. also totally overkill though, me, I wouldn’t bother.