Yeah because you pay $3500 for the car and $350 from the Jegs catalog and you have a sloppy ridiculous 845whp. Domestics got it made.
:lol
No shit. Which makes the slow domestics on this forum sad. 
LOL. Shawn…get to work to pay that rent. Clark… …what do you know about domestics…since when does your ford even run on all 8, and…I’m not goin anywhere anytime soon… except to Mid-O baby!
and The Glen, and Calbogie, and VIR, and the gay limerock…ahhh, I love summer…oh, and the lot , wherever it may be! Maybe I’ll stop at JCPENNY and leave some marks. No more auto-crosses for me.
I got a sugar momma. I no need work.
That’s about all I know about domestics and the reason I wont buy another one.
No go buy that Excursion Deez-ILL.
I wish! :
thats an exxageration but you know it’s true to an extent.
domestic bolt-ons=cheap as fuck.
Its your european stuff that cost big money. Japanesse and domestics are similar.
There is not a single part I would buy from a jegs catalog cause all their LSX stuff is crap + I hate bolt ons
uhh saying you hate boltons is like saying you hate anything but stock…depends what you consider to be a ‘bolt-on’ i guess…
I mean the stupid stuff that gets you 2hp here and 3hp there… I go for the heart of the engine and put a cam in it or something. If its a necessary supporting mod I will do it.
Most European and Japanese NA motors arent built with tons of power left on the table back at the manufacturer. An intake or exhaust on a car like Benny’s or mine will get you 5-7hp each for an outrageous cost. The same part on a big GM motor will do 30+hp. BMW built our motors for as much as they could get out of them so there isnt much left to squeeze out.
:lol
I been getting robbed for the last 1/2 decade then.
Stock SHORT block for my 3/S = nearly $3K.
My ATR catback = $1K (before shipping
I haven’t even warmed up yet.
That is true but also the larger diplacement engines will always have bigger gains from similar mods. If you put 10psi to a B16 you will get about 300whp but if you run a LS1 or similar sized engine on boost you will gain much more, like 550-600whp and the little Honda still has an advantage with DOHC and so on… just a rough example
Its just the nature of most Honda engines. They flow very well and make alot of horse power but due to being efficient and smaller displacement they dont make as much torque… but Honda cars are lite so who needs torque?
maybe EACH thing only gives you a couple hp, but if you plan out your modifications to work together you can get good gains…case in point:
stock bmw s52=~200whp on avg, on avg dynojet, avg conditions.
intake=~2-3whp
tune=~5-7whp
full exhaust=~7-8whp
m50 mani=~10-15whp
big maf/injectors/tune=~2-5whp
end result is ~30-40whp…which isnt bad for ‘bolt-ons’
No, thats the point. For that 30-40whp, we spend $1700. You can get 30whp out of a V8 Mustang with a $50 K&N filter.
ooh this should get good, personally I am all about efficiency, A 4cyl with a turbo can make 700+whp, and still get 25mpg when they arent wot. A v8 that makes similar power probably gets a mpg rating in the single digits, at this point in time with the enourmous gas costs it just doesnt make much sense to me to have a big v8 as a street car.
Well Mike from Synapse says he gets 30mpg no problem and he has close to 600whp…Driving habits have a lot to do with gas mileage…
anyways there’s a few sayings going around…“theres no replacement for displacement” and “the replacement for displacement is measured in PSI” :rofl
Well a crazy turbo civic driven around town out of boost is still a 1.8 liter (or whatever) Honda engine.
In terms of pure power: Displacement > *
Personally, I prefer a V6 FI to get the best of both worlds.
That’s misleading. He isn’t making anywhere near 30MPG at 600WHP.