AMS R35 GTR Race Pulley Install/Specs...

Vendor Marketplace
1

Just thought we’d share some install shots and specs on our industry first pulley for the R35.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6662-Copy.jpg
DSCF6662-Copy.jpg768×576

Some of the specs:

• Power and torque gains throughout the power-band!
• Stock-sized main crank pulley (no under-drive related issues)
• CAD-Designed, billet aircraft aluminum construction (T6061)
• Metal sleeve on main crank pulley for a positive seal
• Weighs in at 2.35 lbs. versus 6.17 lbs. factory pulley!
• Fully balanced, super light, and super strong!
• Aircraft grade aluminum construction utilizing strict ISO 9001 manufacturing standards
• AMS laser-etched logo and anodized black for longevity/durability and a stealth stock look
• AMS pulleys have been used for years on highly built VG and VQ powerplants!

Applications:

R35 2009+

Side by Side shots of AMS Pulley vs OEM:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6932.jpg
DSCF6932.jpg768×576

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6946.jpg
DSCF6946.jpg768×576

Picture of metal sleeve for a positive seal between the pulley and front oil seal:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6661-Copy.jpg
DSCF6661-Copy.jpg768×576

Install is straight forward and should take around 2-3 hours using simple tools:

10mm socket, ratchet, extensions
flat head or equivalent for removal of plastic clips
19 mm deep socket (preferably impact) and breaker bar/pipe
jam bar (for main drive shaft)
torque wrench

Picture of the GTR prepping for light surgery at AMS:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6950.jpg
DSCF6950.jpg768×576

After proper positioning on our scissor lift we position the rubber blocks under the OEM mounting points:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6943.jpg
DSCF6943.jpg768×576

Shot of the undertray that needs to be removed to access the lower engine bay. The arrows depict some of the 10mm bolts and clip locations that need to be removed for the front lower lip/bumper to be removed. The front bolts are hidden by rubber plugs that have been removed in this pic:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6909-1.jpg
DSCF6909-1.jpg766×574

Two 10 mm bolts (one on either side) are hidden towards the front wheel splash shield. Removing the plastic clips will allow access to these with an extension:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6912.jpg
DSCF6912.jpg768×576

Front lower lip/bumper carefully being removed:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6942.jpg
DSCF6942.jpg576×768

Front lip/bumper removed:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6913.jpg
DSCF6913.jpg768×576

With the front lip/bumper removed you now have access to the remaining 4 x 10 mm bolts in order to remove the second undertray:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6914-1.jpg
DSCF6914-1.jpg766×574

Second tray removed - don’t mind the salt :eek:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6917.jpg
DSCF6917.jpg768×576

OEM Pulley waiting for extraction:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6920.jpg
DSCF6920.jpg768×576

In order to remove the serpentine belt you will need a 3/8 ratchet. Watch your fingers as the idler arm has alot of tension. Before removing the belt note the routing - may want to draw a simple sketch for reference. Belt is removed:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6924.jpg
DSCF6924.jpg768×576

Now is the fun part - removing the crank bolt. Easiest way would have been to remove the rad assembly as you can then fit an impact gun and voila! However taking the rad out etc is unnessary and more time consuming than needed. Grab a 19mm deep impact socket with 1/4 ratchet and good length pipe to use as a breaker bar. Now you need to jam the primary driveshaft from spinning. Here is where a hoist and helper are very beneficial. Simple insert the crow bar in-between the front u-joint:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6928.jpg
DSCF6928.jpg768×576

Now you spin the 19mm socket counter clock-wise while your assistant keeps the drive-shaft from spinning. Should not take too much effort.
You can shoot some WD40 where the 19mm crank bolt was removed to help with removal of the OEM pulley. We found that the OEM pulley just needs some simple wiggling to pry loose - gotta love new cars :slight_smile:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6929.jpg
DSCF6929.jpg768×576

Now you lubricate the metal sleeve of the AMS pulley with oil/WD or equivalent. This ensures that the sleeve does not bind the crank seal. This is a precaution as the seals are fresh and still soft but on higher mileage cars they become hard and more brittle. Ona higher mileage car we would be replacing the seal regardless. Add some anti-seaze to the inner portion of the pulley and carefully insert making sure the key-ruff does not fall out or move.
Tighten the bolt with a torque wrench to OEM specs (I forget the exact spec and will insert this when I return to the shop).

AMS Pulley installed - not even the dealer will know it’s there :slight_smile:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6934.jpg
DSCF6934.jpg768×576

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q300/amszstore/GTR%20PULLEY/DSCF6935.jpg
DSCF6935.jpg768×576

Final steps involve re-tracing your steps for the under-trays.

All in all this should take a competent shop no more than 2-3 hours to do depending on skill level etc.

With simple equations for power increases the formula is 2.7 hp per 1 lb saved. Expect 10+ hp easily. Our past results with pulleys show a higher output level as cars are more heavily modified. The engine will feel lighter and upshifts and downshifts will be quicker!

Our AMS pulley will be available through exclusive distributors such as Speed for Sale. Pre-order details and delivery details along with dyno to follow shortly.

For those interested we had a feature on an install on one of our kits for the 350Z:

http://amszstore.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=33&pos=1

This is just a sample of things to come from our camp in the coming months for the R35.

Enjoy!

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com
Servicing Nissan’s Flagships Since 1992!

2

product looks good, shaving the weight to 2.35 is quite impressive.
congrats to you guys at AMS.

do the 350z pulleys fit a G35? even though they are the same engine.

3

Nice Vuk!

Kev told me about this today. Mentioned you had a boat on the scissors haha!

4

reconJDM - yes our pulley kits fit the G35 as well, we have installed multiple sets on local G35s. They are also stock diameter but lightened weight, so you don’t get the negative effects of underdriving accessories. The weight difference between our AMS pullies and the oem is 2.52 lbs vs. 7.54 lbs, mostly due to the crank pulley which has a difference of 1.84 lbs vs. 6.24lbs.

Martino - the GTR is a monster when you compare it to something like a Z32 or S13, it’s huge compared to alot of cars and maybe even some trucks.

5

good job

these shood sell like hot cakes

6

wow, any body who eliminates the harmonic balancer with a solid one should go back to trade school.

search crank vibrations on google… you get this, 1st one too.

Crankshafts are the core of the engine. Because of that, they should, by all accounts be rock solid. Although they’re regularly viewed as an unyielding, immovable object, in reality, that’s not the case. The crankshaft twists and bends relative to the loads placed upon it by the respective pistons and rods on each throw. In testing by an industry giant, General Motors have shown that the crank in a 350 cubic inch small block prepped for racing can deflect considerably at 8,000 RPM. There’s more too. A crankshaft also has natural frequencies. Coupled with the frequency of the torque inputs and resonance, severe crankshaft vibrations can result. What happens next? Outright crankshaft failure if a damper of some sort isn’t used to still these vibrations. It wasn’t that long ago that one found aluminum hubs on the nose of a drag race engine. Bad idea. The end result was often a multiple piece crank.

Usualy I dont’ care… but this is my favorite car, and I would hate to see an engine failure on one.

7

My first impression with this reply was to question the tone. Secondly, regarding trade school we are Red-Sealed Mechanics at AMS and have offered our fully balanced crank pulleys as has UR etc. for years with zeros issues on some of the industries most powerful builds.

I see that you have fallen to the fate to internet rumour regarding crank pulleys etc. Referring to poorly made old-school motors which are balanced from pulleys is a bad comparison. These motors were balanced with the pulleys! Most modern motors are fully balanced from the factory internally such as the Z32,Z33,R35. The rubber band on these factory units is commonly referred to as an “Isolator” .

Instead of reciting what is ‘common knowledge’ amongst accredited technicians in the industry I will offer up text from UR’s site

"[SIZE=“1”]People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. “Harmonic Balancer” is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The “balancer” part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L’s, and 1.8L VW’s just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand our crank pulleys better. [/SIZE]"

I hope this info will enlighten enthusiasts. As always we are here to answer any questions and/or rhetoric :slight_smile:

Rest assured your favorite ride is in safe hands and is awaiting several more Industry first offerings from AMS :slight_smile:

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

8

Also plenty of press for this Pulley in all the major mags coming up along with a feature on the installation.

www.gtrcenter.net

has it listed as well :slight_smile:

Regards,

Vuk@AMS
www.amszstore.com

9

Good luck to you boys, i hope your business continue to progress and grow just as well as your guys reputation for superb work and immense knowledge

10

Vuk, please don’t think im trying to discredit you. I have seen some of your work and I know you guys put heart and soul into it.

But unlike most Son members I do not get my info/ “rumors” from the internet. This info was initialy from my engine class at centennial college, which im sure you took aswell if you studied for your licence in Ontario. 2nd, from my Metalurgy teacher at UOIT. And from my CAD Teacher (p-eng degree) who use to design jet engines. (im only studying for my CET)

Personaly I always consault the manufacture, I would ask nissan if this part would void any engine warranty.

Though internet rumor tells me that pushing a couple buttons voids the warranty aswell…

I will leave a short from SUZUKI, Which is NOT an old school domestic motor manufacture, and whos article says NOTHING about engine BALANCING.

[QUOTE]"Suzuki Harmonic Balancer
Harmonic balancers are magnificent devices which are very important to the efficient working condition of your Suzuki’s engine and its internal parts. The engine produces power in a systematic cyclic manner, involving a lot of internal parts in the process. Each of these internal parts has an important part in the engine’s efficient working condition. One of these is the crankshaft that usually suffers because of the vibration caused by the power transmitted to it by the cylinders. To answer that problem, the Suzuki harmonic balancer has been equipped.

The Suzuki harmonic balancer is the specific harmonic balancer that is needed by your particular vehicle make. This component is a vibration damper that is connected to the front of the crankshaft to handle the torsional vibration. This vibration occurs when the cylinders fire, the power transmitted to the front of the crankshaft causing it to move before the rear does and resulting to a twisting motion. When the power is removed from the front, it unwinds and snaps back in an opposite direction and creates a torsional vibration.

At some engine speeds, the torsional vibration is in synch with the power released by the engine to the crankshaft, which results to a phenomenon called ‘resonance’. Resonance causes severe stress to the structure of the crankshaft, which is usually beyond what it can stand. Crankshaft failure is the common result of this. When the crankshaft fails, the working condition in the engine is disturbed. Without the function of the crankshaft, the entire engine cycle cannot be done, resulting to the failure of the whole system.

To keep this from happening to your Suzuki vehicle, the Suzuki Motor Corporation engineers have equipped your auto with a Suzuki harmonic balancer that is attached to the front of your engine’s crankshaft. It is composed of two elements: the mass element and the energy-dissipating element. The mass element of this damper resists the acceleration of the vibration while the energy-dissipating element consists of a rubber, a clutch, and fluid, and absorbs vibrations, resulting to a calmer crankshaft operation. "[QUOTE/]

Its not about the balance of the engine, but the torque each time a cylinder fires. The rapid accel/decel of the crank with power ouput.

If you don’t belive me, please consault the engine designers, and ask why they put it there.

example, before I stretched my 215 on a 10 inch rim, i called Goodyear why not. The engineer that I called was not too impressed to say the least. His words to me were colourful. I almost cost my shop warranty privilages.

11

what vuk is trying to say i think is …

that the motor is balanced at the crank… so… the crank pully is just a pully and does not dampen anything

12

Again, you’re not talking about a Harmonic Balancer, this is an isolator. :slight_smile: Even your qoute says right in it, that it is particular vehicle make (in the case suzuki)

13

I think there is a clear communication problem here as well as a zero contribution to this thread. So don’t take what I am about to say too personally!

Your points are totally off as you first mention we need to go to trade school and then start referencing old-school V8’s?

You now go on to talk about Suzuki motors which frankly is about as beneficial to our scenario here as is the V8’s!

We have several contacts at Nissan in North America and Japan so rest assured we know what we are talking about and do not release a product unless 100% satisfied with the end application. If you want proof of our contacts at Nissan corporate shoot down to Zcon in San Antonio this year where we are a major sponsors right next to Nissan and Advan :slight_smile:

Remember that this is a Nissan Forum and we are talking Nissans!

I wish you luck with your future accreditation. As most in the tuner industry will learn is that they don’t teach you alot of the aftermarket knowledge in trade school. Just like they don’t teach the GTR tech’s at Nissan how to install the parts we are developing/releasing :slight_smile:

If people are worried about warranties then keep the ride ‘stock’ as dealers will try and avoid warranty claims whenever possible. We know this as our techs are ex-Nissan Techs and have witnessed this on stock cars! We’re also SEMA members and I can go on and on about what constitutes a voided warranty by an aftermarket component. Once again they don’t teach you these things in trade school!

If you purchase your R35 do not use LC or disable TC because you will void your warranty - LC is eliminated from 2010 models and 2009 models are being reprogrammed to eliminate these!

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

[QUOTE=Turboner;368349]Vuk, please don’t think im trying to discredit you. I have seen some of your work and I know you guys put heart and soul into it.

But unlike most Son members I do not get my info/ “rumors” from the internet. This info was initialy from my engine class at centennial college, which im sure you took aswell if you studied for your licence in Ontario. 2nd, from my Metalurgy teacher at UOIT. And from my CAD Teacher (p-eng degree) who use to design jet engines. (im only studying for my CET)

Personaly I always consault the manufacture, I would ask nissan if this part would void any engine warranty.

Though internet rumor tells me that pushing a couple buttons voids the warranty aswell…

I will leave a short from SUZUKI, Which is NOT an old school domestic motor manufacture, and whos article says NOTHING about engine BALANCING.

"Suzuki Harmonic Balancer
Harmonic balancers are magnificent devices which are very important to the efficient working condition of your Suzuki’s engine and its internal parts. The engine produces power in a systematic cyclic manner, involving a lot of internal parts in the process. Each of these internal parts has an important part in the engine’s efficient working condition. One of these is the crankshaft that usually suffers because of the vibration caused by the power transmitted to it by the cylinders. To answer that problem, the Suzuki harmonic balancer has been equipped.

The Suzuki harmonic balancer is the specific harmonic balancer that is needed by your particular vehicle make. This component is a vibration damper that is connected to the front of the crankshaft to handle the torsional vibration. This vibration occurs when the cylinders fire, the power transmitted to the front of the crankshaft causing it to move before the rear does and resulting to a twisting motion. When the power is removed from the front, it unwinds and snaps back in an opposite direction and creates a torsional vibration.

At some engine speeds, the torsional vibration is in synch with the power released by the engine to the crankshaft, which results to a phenomenon called ‘resonance’. Resonance causes severe stress to the structure of the crankshaft, which is usually beyond what it can stand. Crankshaft failure is the common result of this. When the crankshaft fails, the working condition in the engine is disturbed. Without the function of the crankshaft, the entire engine cycle cannot be done, resulting to the failure of the whole system.

To keep this from happening to your Suzuki vehicle, the Suzuki Motor Corporation engineers have equipped your auto with a Suzuki harmonic balancer that is attached to the front of your engine’s crankshaft. It is composed of two elements: the mass element and the energy-dissipating element. The mass element of this damper resists the acceleration of the vibration while the energy-dissipating element consists of a rubber, a clutch, and fluid, and absorbs vibrations, resulting to a calmer crankshaft operation. "[QUOTE/]

Its not about the balance of the engine, but the torque each time a cylinder fires. The rapid accel/decel of the crank with power ouput.

If you don’t belive me, please consault the engine designers, and ask why they put it there.

example, before I stretched my 215 on a 10 inch rim, i called Goodyear why not. The engineer that I called was not too impressed to say the least. His words to me were colourful. I almost cost my shop warranty privilages.

14

That is what we were alluding to with our applications :slight_smile:

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

15

Do you have a dyno chart comparing pre and post installation?

16

We’ll have one shortly as it is being done state-side by one of our exclusive vendors.

The formula is a proven one (2.7 hp per 1 lb saved) AMS = 2.35 lbs vs OEM= 6.17 so 10+ should be easily attained considering the weight savings.

Regards,

Vuk@AMS

17

did ur team design the pulley? … if so good job in being the first

18

Yes, all specs done in-house as were our other pulleys.

Thanks!

Vuk@AMS

19

Vuk, wouldn’t you be freeing power rather then making power as you’re reducing rotational mass on the crank?

I look forward to the dyno results as I believe it’ll continue to set AMS apart from other manufacturers.

20

Yes it’s freeing up the power, which is why we added the formula in there. You’d still end up with 10+ hp over what was achieved with the factory crank pulley :slight_smile: