pulleys

i need to replace my pulleys, not real urgent but they should be replaced they a little noisy, but i was wondering? how are the under drive pulleys? will i actually see a diff? are they worth the extra cash?

i mean the Unorthodox Racing Ultra Street lightened underdrive pulleys

Are they worth the cash?

Depends on whether or not you think a 3-5 hp gain is worth the money.

Underdrive pulleys have been proven to make gains.

i just checked out the website, and they would be worth while, but i heard stories about them, such as charging problems due to saller size or being unbalanced

If you can get one for less than $100 they are worth it…Taking weight off the crank is always good IE Lightened Flywheel

does it still have a damper?

KA’s, SR’s, CA’s ETC (most of nissan’s older engines) are all internaly ballenced. They do not have a damper like honda’s and most other cars or do they need them.

Thats good to know, but why are there SR dampers on the market if they arent needed?

I have never seen one, do you have a link?? The SR crank pully has a piece of rubber in it (damper) but it is only on the part of the pulley that runs the AC system. I believe it is the same on the KA’s but am not to sure.

I guess HKS makes it…

http://www.envyperformance.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5047&CFID=3434934&CFTOKEN=90641669

Universal. The picture is of a 5m or 7m toyota engine.

HKS makes stuff for non-nissan just so you know

lol…love ur signature quote thingy fallen…lmao

Sorry, its not the one I read about way back when, if i ever find the one that I read about (some obscure company)… Just saying that they make em, why? I have no idea… Nothing a balanced rotating assembly cant handle…

Oh well…

Thanks for the props about the name, feel free to use it…

Personally I feel that the money could be better spent elsewhere. Here is my explanation of why. This is coming from Honda applications but I have no reason to think there would be a difference on your car. The theory is that you’re basically changing the gear ratio (yes I understand there are no actual gears involved) between your crank and your alternator / PS pump / AC compressor. The idea is with the altered gear ratio your engine will have to make less power to turn your accessories. To test if this actually works or not a friend of mine in the states decided he was going to actually test them out on a dyno. He was using the AEM pulleys on a b18c5.

To test the car made 3 passes with the stock setup. It pulled it around 185ish. I don’t remember the exact numbers. Then he simply took off the belts to the crank. In theory this should result in even more power gain then the under drive pulley because they car didn’t even have to turn the accessories. The car was allowed to cool for a half hour then they made three more passes. He managed to net a total of 3whp with no belts at all. Even with drive train loss of around 15% that means the alternator (the only accessory his car had) was costing him at most 3.45whp… This rounded up is only 1.9% of the total power his engine is making. Then he installed the under drive pulleys. His car made a whopping 2 peak WHP over stock. But then again by the time they were making the 3rd set of passes the sun had gone down and it was 5-10 dregrees colder out. When you look at the fact he had to remove his harmonic balancer in order to install the AEM pulleys, personally I don’t feel it was worth it. Yes it’s likely that a car running a power steering pump and AC compressor could likely see higher gains, it’s unlikely it’s anything you would feel. I would be surprised if it saved you even a tenth of a second in quarter mile performance.

Recognizing that in-line 4-cylinder engines are inherently out-of-balance and that crankshaft harmonics contribute to bearing, oil pump, rod, and crankshaft failure in high horsepower Hondas at least. I would assume Nissans are not that different. I would say spend the money elsewhere. Suspension bushings, a good tune up, or even a day at a driving school is a far better investment IMO.

Here is a link to the fluidampr site. The HKS one likley works just as well, its a lot more baller thats for sure.

http://www.fluidampr.com/

KA’s, SR’s, CA’s ETC (most of nissan’s older engines) are all internaly ballenced. They do not have a damper like honda’s and most other cars or do they need them.[/quote]

I guess I should have read all this before I typed all that out. What do they use to internaly balance the engine? They are not spending the the time to match rods/pistons and balance the crank from the factory are they?

i love how its listed as a hks product where the picture clearly shows an ATI product.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/charts/damnissan.htm

that would be the one I saw…

Drastic changes in pulley size lead to accessory problems and not a lot of benefit. Look for lighter pulleys that are only a little smaller than stock. I have a UR aluminum under-drive crank pulley (less than 1 lb) and a Stillen aluminum flywheel (5 lbs.). Between those two I have taken about 10 lbs. off the crank, and the engine is much more responsive. You’re right about peak horsepower, not too much gain there, but for driveability and double-clutching there is a world of difference. Guess it all depends on what you are looking for and how you like to drive. Also, just change the crank pulley… not worth the money to spend on the accessory pulleys. The weight off the crank to lower the rotating mass is the main goal.