I’ve finally decided to part ways with my S13 hatch that I’ve owned for almost 8 years, and dumped countless tens of thousands of dollars into over the years. The body is in dire need of some TLC, and someone who is willing to do some body work will have an amazing car. I just don’t have the drive or time to deal with rust any more.
The car is currently in storage until the 27th of March, so test drives will have to wait until then unfortunately. Having said that, you absolutely will NOT be driving this car without at least first putting down a deposit. I’m not letting some 18 year old wrap my car around a pole without paying for it first.
This car is registered with Hot Rod status, so you don’t have to worry about passing e-test anytime soon. I passed with flying colours last year with a “High flow” cat, if you know what I mean. Body has ~275K on it, engine has ~65K (see below).
The car currently makes just shy of 400whp and 330 ft/lbs of torque. Here’s a parts summary (I’m sure I’ll miss a few things but I’ll try to cover most of it):
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION
-S13 SR20DET, completely rebuilt by Canadian Cylinder Heads, currently has approximately 65k on it
-Block was bored 1mm to 87mm. Compression is 150 +/- 5 PSI across all cylinders
-Tomei H-beam rods
-CP Pistons, 87mm stock compression ratio
-ARP hardware all around (main studs, rod studs/nuts, head studs etc.)
-ACL Race bearings
-Cometic 1.3mm Headgasket
-Stock head (rebuilt at the same time as the rest of the engine)
-Authentic Greddy oil pan
-Freddy chrome intake manifold (only replica part on this car)
-SARD 850cc side feed injectors
-Garrett GT3071R T3 turbo, .63 exhaust side (has less thank 8000km on it, bought new last year from Cherry Turbos)
-Top mount stainless steel T3 tubular equal-length manifold (was told it was full-race, but no castings/tags anywhere to verify)
-Tial 38mm wastegate (less than 8000km, bought new with turbo)
-Custom SS 3" V-Band downpipe, and midpipe/test pipe w/flex (made by Tony from DMT, amazing quality)
-3" Apexi N1 Evo cat-back, bught new from Varun about 3 years ago
-Circuit Sports gold anodized aluminum side-feed fuel rail
-custom intercooler piping (3"), 3" thick core rated for 400hp
-Greddy Type S BOV (Authentic)
-Haltech P1000 Stand-alone ECU and conversion harness, tuned by Tony the Tiger at DMT
-4" custom intake piping with HKS mushroom filter
-Walbro 255lph pump, new gas tank straps, reconditioned gas tank from Gas Tank Renu (2 years ago)
-AEM standalone FPR (less than 5000km, bought new last year)
-Custom LS ignition coil setup, escalade ignition coils, V6 3.8 GM 8mm spark plug wires, NGK 9 heat range race plugs —Setup good for over 800WHP— (all OEM parts, cheap and easy to get a hold of)
-Koyo Radiator
-300ZX TT transmission conversion by Mazworx (good for ~800whp)
includes:
-300ZX TT transmission
-1 piece steel driveshaft
-tranny conversion plate
-custom machined bell housing to match conversion plate
-shifter adapter
-nismo slave cylinder
-SS braided clutch line from master to slave
-SPEC stage 3 clutch/pressure plate (rated for 525 ft.-lbs.)
-stock refinished flywheel
SUSPENSION
-HSD aluminum bodied coilovers, 8/6k springs, approximately 15K on them (bought new)
-CP Racing rear 4-point strut bar
-Progress sway bars front and back with adjustable heim joint end links (discontinued, one of the best sets of sway bars on the market)
-SPL Titanium series Front traction arms, rear upper control arms, eccentric bolt lock-out kit and rear toe arms (less than 2000KM on them, bought new from Varun last year)
-5-lug conversion front and back with S14 FLCA’s (more camber) and all OEM parts all around. Hubs/bearings were bought new from Nissan
-There’s probably more here but that’s all I can remember for now
WHEELS/TIRES
-18x10 +18 Work Emotion XD9 in Bronze
-Wheels have very small amounts of curb rash on 3 of 4 wheels, less than 1.5" long, other than that no imperfections
-Tires need to be replaced in the rear, fronts are on their way out as well, but I just flipped them before I stored the car, so they will last another season at least
- Continental ExtremeContact DW, 245/35ZR18 front, 285/35ZR18 rear
-Front and rear fenders have been pulled very aggressively to fit the wheels
BRAKES
-Z32 1 1/8" master cylinder
-S13 ABS brake booster (car doesn’t have ABS, so this helps a lot with brake pedal feel)
Front: Wilwood BBK, 2 piece 13" slotted rotors, Wilwood SS braided lines, bought brand new last season, has less than 5000KM on them
Rear: 300ZX TT brakes and working e-brake setup, Hawk HP+ pads, Stoptech slotted rotors (bought at same time as Wilwoods, less than 5000km on them), SS braided lines bought new 2 years ago
INTERIOR
-Defi Standalone Boost gauge (bought new last year)
-AEM Wideband
-Authentic Bride Artis III driver seat, sparkly silver back and bride gradient cushioning on sliders for Driver seat
-Authentic Recaro reclinable bucket seat (Blue + black) on authentic Recaro sliders passenger seat
-Nardi Deep Corn black w/red stitching 3-spoke wheel and horn button (functional)
-Boss hub
-Adjustable height PBM shift knob (black)
-gutted interior from the front seats-back
-RARE nismo cluster with 9k tachometer and 260KM/H speedo, showing the authentic kilometers on the body (~275K)
That’s all I remember right now, I’m at work so I’ll look through later at home and add as necessary.
Now, for THE BAD:
-The chassis will need to have the passenger side rear frame rail repaired, just above the sub-frame. It’s not completely gone yet (no holes) but it’s getting there
-Both rocker panels will need to be repaird/replaced
-Windshield surround on the drivers side is bubbling
-Wiring for some parts of the ECU is messy, but fully functional. Could use a clean-up.
-Driver side floor near the pedals is starting to rust again (I had it repaired once, not very well)
-No power steering. I have the pump, but you will need conversion lines at the very least to make it function
The frame everywhere else is solid, and I can still jack the car up from it. The car was rust proofed most of it’s life.
I will post pictures when I get home.
As for price, I don’t think it would be worth my while to sell it for any less than $9500, so that’s a starting point.
Keep in mind, while the body is in questionable (yet still drivable) condition, there’s still over $15K worth of parts here.
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