anyone around here do annodizing??
The following procedure is for anodizing aluminum parts. Anodizing will protect the aluminum parts by making the surface much harder than natural aluminum. Aluminum oxide is grown out of the surface during anodizing and then becomes aluminum hydrate that is extremely hard. The porous nature of the anodized layer allows the product to be dyed any color that is required. The method I describe is Type II anodizing (room temperature) and gives an anodized layer of .0002" to .001" (half which is grown into the surface and half out of the surface). Parts anodized will become slightly larger by about .0005" Type III (hard coat) anodizing is done at much colder temperatures and at higher current densities and can reach thick nesses of .002". Type III anodized surfaces can typically only be dyed black or dark green due to the denser pore size. I do not cover hard coat procedure due to it not being in the “home brew” category due to the colder acid temp and high current density that would be required to perform it. The anodizing guide will show you how to perform the more popular Type II anodizing (Room Temp) using the home brew hanging wire method with materials found at typical hardware and auto parts stores, (bare bones method). Almost everything you need can be found locally except anodizing dyes and sealer which I sell small quantities on this site.
http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html
[Only $144.00 Note the 2005 anodizing guide is sold separately
i think not
ill pay someone to do all that bullshit
Pittsburgh Anodizing: 724-265-5110 $45 minimum charge, extra $45 for same-day delivery… at least that’s what they charge us.