Another boring boosted ls1

Builds
1

I’ve been keeping up with a build thread on wnyfbody, so many of you have probably already seen this, but I figured I would share here too.

While reading through this, keep in mind that this is my first real experience with boosting a vehicle and/or any sort of real attempt at fabrication.

This is going to be a low boost front mount truck manifold setup. I originally wanted to keep AC, but doing intricate fabricating with C6 manifolds with very little practice / background, and having to buy and change the k-member didn’t sound all that appealing.

Build plans:
-on3 76mm .96AR turbo running around 4psi for now
-5.3 manifolds with egr blocked off (already had these)
-waste gate – precision 46mm
-2.5” stainless hot side
-3” ebay cold side kit, with 31x12x3 intercooler
-ebay china bov
-valve springs - undecided
-pushrods - something stronger than stock
-60lb injectors, most likely siemens

Here is what I’m working with:
Picture from when I picked it up - 100% stock 200,000 mile fbod.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0299.jpg
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After a few ricer mods and cleaning it up a bit towards the end of the summer - C5 wheels, eibach pro kit, slp lm1…

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/400455230.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/400471969.jpg
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So the first step was to take shit out - Removing the ac compressor and the alternator, along with getting the manifolds removed from the block.

Look at all that space:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/11-23004.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/11-23001.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/11-23003.jpg
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After removing what came off with nuts and bolts, it was time to get out the saw and die grinder to make room for the alternator and the fmic.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0450.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0455.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0465.jpg
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---------- Post added at 10:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------

The bottom support for the radiator needed to be lowered.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0460.jpg
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Fitment from up top.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0458.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0463.jpg
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Cold side piping layout.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0483.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0484.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0486.jpg
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---------- Post added at 10:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 PM ----------

I bought a new tig welder to use to make the crossover. Before starting on this, I had about 10 minutes total of tig welding experience, so it doesn’t / isn’t going to look pretty.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0489.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0492.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0493.jpg
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http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0494.jpg
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---------- Post added at 10:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------

Welding it up.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0499.jpg
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Test fit.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r281/ryanbgb22/IMG_0500.jpg
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Next up is installing a vband clamp on the crossover and starting on the down pipe.

2

ill be watching the progress =)

3

Nice work :tup:

I’m going to think every FBody is boosted come spring, lol.

4

It seems like its the trendy thing to do.

5

i would just run a different blowoff valve than ebay, but whatever floats your boat. good work so far

6

First time I’ve heard of someone boosting a 200k engine but I’m used to people turboing a 4cyl, not an LS1. Good luck, I wanna try this :slight_smile:

7

Don’t coat your exhaust manifold until you find out all the spots it cracks.

8

Im stoked to see this build finished! What are you gonna do for managemant? Im thinking you might need a fuel pump upgrade and colder plugs, if not now, def down the road. I would add some kind of flex pipe to at least one side of your crossover pipe/flange setup or it will eventually crack Im thinking… Other than that looks like a great start! Im surprised you didnt consider going T4… even Divided tang T4 instead of T3 (at least thats what it looks like to me)

9

Im no Welding Pro, but shouldn’t you “back purge”? the pipes for welding stainless?

10

Neither am I, but it was back purged while welding up the joints.

11

Oh good deal, usually when people take the pics the plugs are still in place. Good deal and good luck with your build!!

12

looks like its gonna be a fun project!

13

Spotted this thing at the track last night, looked good. :tup:

Did you run it by chance? Any updates?

14

Not bad. But I do have a question, why’d you stand the factory radiator up and cut the hell out of the support instead of going with a stood-up Griffin like most people do? (Don’t need to cut the bottom support, and cools better than the factory LS radiator which is marginal at best).

15

The majority of people end up cutting and standing a radiator upright stock or aftermarket.

16

I did run, first run my time never displayed due to the “computer freezing.” Second run I ran an 8.7 (street tires just roast once I get into boost) at unknown MPH because “the ticket never printed.” I’m currently running 6psi with the MAF. I’m still on stock (probably rebuilt at some point) trans, 10 bolt, and engine with 200,000+ miles, and all seem to still be going strong other than the rear main seal pissing all over. I have a built 4l60e and a 5.3 iron block with ls9 gaskets, ls6 cam, and arp studs ready to go in as soon as something lets go (not going to rip it apart when it’s still working). The car needs to be cleaned up quite a bit, but I’m having fun with it. Once the engine comes out I need to paint the engine bay and clean up a lot of wiring.

I’ll see if I have any up to date pics. Current setup is huron speed kit, on3 turbo, jgs BOV, jgs WG, racetronix fuel pump, dumped exhaust after the k member. Radiator is back in the stock position. Lots of small things to finish that I just never seem to get the time to take care of; I’ve also become quite fond of the idea of a boosted c5, so we will see where that goes.

17

Auto + 10bolt + drag radials should be fine for a while…

Cut 1.6/1.5s on a 10bolt with drag radials

18

I realize people stand them up… I’m in the process of doing mine right now! But most people who do it, leave the bottom cross member and switch to a Griffin 55241-X (this is what I’m using) or 25241-X.

19

Durr my bad I thought you were talking about the top went back over the pics

20

I edited my last post with the mileage of these components, lol.