Anyone ever hollow out wooden 4x4?

I am replacing an old chain link fence in my side yard with a 4 foot wooden one. I planned to dig the holes out with a rented power auger but before I did, I called the call before you dig hotline.

Everything clears except for the gas line which runs right under the the fence post closest to the house. God only knows how deep the gas line is and if the numbnuts who installed the fence cemented around it. I don’t even want to mess with it, so I came up with the idea of getting a hole the same diameter of the pipe drilled straight through a pressure treated 4x4. That way I can slide it over the pipe and continue on with the fence.

Question is, anyone know where I can get something like this done?

I’m sure none of the big box stores would even touch this, hell they can’t even saw a piece of plywood in half for me correctly.

Can’t you change how the posts are laid out so that you can just avoid going by the gas line? or is it at the end of the fence where you HAVE to put a post?

Unfortunately it’s my only option if I want it to look nice. If I were to move it behind the gas meters I would still have to get the old fence post out of there and that’s what I want to avoid. I don’t want to put a shovel anywhere near a gas line.

Here’s a pic to help visualize.


Fence post in question is the one closest to the house on the left.

Oh alright, so basically you want to hollow out the wood, and then slip the wood “sleeve” over the old post?

Cut down the metal one. Use a drill bit yourself to put a hole in it. Then put a bolt through it to completely secure it?

it won’t be very sturdy at all then

that pole is 48" underground, the base will be strong, but it will create a weakpoint on the 4x4, you’re only going to be able to drill about 6" at most with a normal size paddlebit

I was thinking more along the lines of THIS. With two bolts top and bottom.
However it might be cheaper to pay someone to do it :slight_smile:

What is your fence diameter like 1 1/4" ?

This then.

I was thinking a ship auger as well, but I don’t think the finished product will be very sturdy unless it is a precision fit around the pole. Unlikely. Plus, keeping a ship auger perfectly straight while drilling will be tough.

You could try contacting a millwork shop to see if they have the capabilities to bore. The other problem I see is the 4x4 splitting in half as you remove that much material from the middle. Not to mention the pressure treated wood is more difficult to drill.

i would consider cutting down the pole to arround 16-24" and then drilling the 4x4 to the same depth. Slide the 4x4 over the pole and drill two holes through the 4x4 and pole and secure with lag bolts. Place the bolts perpendicular to add some strength.

or, just dig away and screw the gas line. :slight_smile:

You wont hurt/damage the gas line with a shovel unless you are the hulk, just be careful and dig that shit out.

Cut the old post off at the ground. Bolt new 4x4 post to side of house and continue on with your day…

my fence was just run to the last metel pole and bolted to the pole (no 4x4 at all)

could be an option :shrug: they used what looks like a muffler clamp around the metal pole and drilled 2 holes threw the fence piece and bolted it to the back. plenty sturdy.

If the existing pole is 2", why the hell wouldn’t you just box it in w/ two pieces of 4 X 1 and two pieces of 2 X 1??? If you do it right, no one will know it’s not a 4 X 4 but you.

EDIT: Actually, Isn’t a 4x4 actually 3.5 X 3.5? In that case use 4 X .75 and 2 X .75

You are never going to be able to drill a hole straight enough with a hand drill and depending on the height of the fence, getting it on a drill press is going to be a motherfucker. If the hole is the slightest bit off it’s going to look like crap.

+1 for bolting it to the house

best idea in thread…and fairly easy to do.

cut the pole off flush with the cement and use these:

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/1521/152194_300.jpg

http://www.frankscreations.com/images/hotels/brackets1.JPG

I like Newman’s idea.

But, if you really want a perfectly straight channel down the dead center of a post you’ll need to cut it in half and use a router to cut 1/2 of the channel in each side. With a router table it will be perfectly straight. A little wood glue, some clamps and a little sanding later and it will go back together looking just like a normal 4x4, but with a perfect hole down the middle. Use a band saw with a fence to rip the 4x4 down the middle so the thin blade doesn’t take off too much wood. Using a table saw you’ll end up with a 4x3.85.

You’d need a big router bit, something like this one but more round:
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1245763450_2145+16

I like Newman’s idea.

But, if you really want a perfectly straight channel down the dead center of a post you’ll need to cut it in half and use a router to cut 1/2 of the channel in each side. With a router table it will be perfectly straight. A little wood glue, some clamps and a little sanding later and it will go back together looking just like a normal 4x4, but with a perfect hole down the middle. Use a band saw with a fence to rip the 4x4 down the middle so the thin blade doesn’t take off too much wood. Using a table saw you’ll end up with a 4x3.85.

You’d need a big router bit, something like this one but more round:
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1245763450_2145+16

This isn’t a bad idea, but the fence post diameter is more like 2-3 inches.

For the reason of it splitting alone, I am thinking boring out the whole piece wouldn’t work, not to mention finding a place that would do it is going to be a bitch. However a few feet with the auger bit isn’t too bad for me to do, but I am worried if I could drill it straight.

I was talking to the gas guy when he came by and he told me they are made of plastic which could get dicey with a spade shovel stabbing at it. Also, I am worried about getting the pole out with the concrete. I am going to have to wiggle it back and forth and I don’t want it rubbing on the line while I do that.

That’s not a bad idea.

This seems like the easiest idea so far, the only thing is I don’t see pressure treated 1x4’s and 1x2’s. If I want it to last, it has to be pressure treated.

Great idea, I am actually going to the store today to pick up a router for some other work I had planned this week, I just have to find the right router bit. I think I am going to try this and see what happens.

I knew I could count on the engineering minds of nyspeed.

This sounds like too much work for a post, do what butch said, cut the old one, mount the new one to the house. 20 min job vs. god knows how many hours.

X…

Try buying Cedar.

They are also grown for their durable (decay-resistant) scented wood, most famously used in the construction of King Solomon’s temple in Jerusalem provided by King Hiram, or Ahiram, of Tyre, Lebanon, circa 1000 BC. The wood is also used for humbler purposes requiring resistance to weather, such as shakes and shingles. Cedar wood and cedar oil is known to be a natural repellent to moths,[17] hence cedar is a popular lining for modern-day closets in which woolens are stored. This specific use of cedar is mentioned in The Iliad (Book 24), referring to the cedar-roofed or lined storage chamber where Priam goes to fetch treasures to be used as ransom. Cedar is also commonly used to make shoe trees as it can absorb moisture and de-odorise. Solid cedar guitar soundboards are also prized for their warm tone as the wood sounds as if it has already been “aged”, as some tonewoods, specifically spruce need years to “age” or “open up”.