I daily drive a 18 year old car and its great. I have all the comforts I could ever want.
Ive driven old junkers daily and I wont do it again. My oldest daily driver was 14 years old.
Id love to keep my truck until its old but I wont go out and buy another old beater daily driver again.
When I get in my 17 year old Mustang it just seems like an ancient shit box.
drew ,did ya hear a whistling sound when ya got that phone call? cause if ya did it was you dodgin a bullet .there were 3 motors in those land yachts a sohc 3.0 a dohc 3.0 and a turbo dohc 3.0 alll of wich were crappy unless highly and i mean highly maintained ,and that wasnt even a help
^^^^ not getting it
i know ya aint .reading > you
:retardclap
shes DOPE.
also an excellent way to get carbon build up on the valves and pistons.
my gti, i let idle for 10-15 seconds until it settles down, then i drive keeping revs low by the time my gear box is warmed up, the oil temp/pressure should be at temp as well. usually 10-15 minutes of operating time i figure as i dont have a temp/ pressure gauge. coolant temp means nothing. but letting it idle to temperature is a bad idea and your oil temp will still be out of its optimal range.
first off, if I dont let the car warm up to atleast 120*, it drives like complete shit. The clutch shifts like shit and not to mention my oil pressure goes over 80psi even if I bring it up to 2500rpms if its atleast not a little warmed up. Coolant temp means everything on my car because the cam runs off it. If the car isnt warmed up to decent temps and you start driving it, every time you try to stop the car drives down to 300rpms, and bounces up to 1500 and does this for a few seconds before it finds idle, where as if I let it warm up, its good to go right off the bat. Im not talking about warm up to 180*. Im talking about me letting it warm up to atleast 110* where the AIR pump and shit shuts off.
I would rather have carbon buildup anyways then drop a spring, or two or 3.
now, back on topic…
Im thinking about buying this stealth, gutting it and LS1/T56 swapping it.
Drew,
Buy a reliable DD. (Think Honda, Toyota or Buick Regal… for you domestic guys)
Dump more money into SSssss.
Sincerely,
Ryan
Letting your car idle to warm up is not a good thing, best startup method is to start, wait 30 seconds, and start driving. Keep it under 3k and put as little load on the motor as possible.
Idling kills gasoline engines.
oh ps: find an early to mid nineties toyota. thank me later. seriously.
corolla/celica/camry…you simply can not go wrong, they’re indestructible forces of nature.
or buy an 8 valve MK II Jetta, Golf, or GTI. I had a Jetta coupe and drove it back and forth from PA every weekend for a while. That car ran awesome and I only paid $400 for it.
Don’t listen to this man ^
Yes, listen to me. Not all VW’s are junk. There is nothing to an 8 valve. That car ran great. The only reason I got rid of it was because I got an inadequate exhaust ticket and I didn’t want to buy a new exhaust or pay the ticket so I sold it.
Drew I have owned both the NA and Turbo and let me tell you from experience it is a BAD idea. They break ALL the time, and parts are not cheap. They are also not very fun to work on. The piston knock he told you about is not piston knock. It’s lifter tick, almost every 3S i have seen has one. Even the VR4 is a bad idea for DD, unless you don’t mind spending your life under the hood. Bad bad bad idea. IMO.
he said its a wrist pin bearing…had a shop diagnose it
but like I said. Im thinking about picking it up for a project car and ls1/t56 swapping it.
That is an absolutely horrible idea.
+1, and you can’t afford it.
Buy a Buick with a 3.8L.
Once again, Toyota Corolla. Find me someone that has owned and and was unimpressed with the reliability.