All these pics are jpg’s straight off the camera (I simultaneously shoot in raw too). No flash was used either. All differences are in exposure and aperture. Shots are iso 400 unless otherwise stated.
Taken tonight in Fairport, NY
f/5, 1/3 sec exp, iso 1600
f/5, 1/2 sec, iso 1600
f/5, .77 sec
f/5, .77 sec
f/5, 1/13 sec
f/5.6, 1/10 sec
f/5.6, 1/10 sec
f/5.6, 1/15 sec
f/5.6, 1/6 sec
f/8, 1/4 sec
f/4.5, 1/2 sec
f/5.6, 1/2 sec
f/5.6, 1 sec
f/4, 1 sec
f/4, 1 sec
f/4, 1 sec
f/7.1, 2 sec
f/8, 10 sec
f/8, 2.5 sec
f/5, 4 sec
f/5, 4 sec
f/5, 3 sec
f/5, 2 sec
f/5.3, 4 sec
f/6.3, 1/4 sec
f/5, 1/4 sec
f/8, 1/4 sec
f/8, .62 sec
f/8, 1/2 sec
f/11, 4 sec
f/11, 8 sec
f/4.5, 1.6 sec
f/4.5, 2.5 sec
This was basically my first time using this camera. I’ll be in Italy in 10 days so I need to get my act together. Depending on the situation and time allotments I’ll probably just use automatic while on the go in Italy. So far so good, I think. I need to make a watermark soon and maybe try to process a few of these pictures in photoshop.
My favorites from this shoot are the third el camino one (a little under exposed though), the one with the street light over the dock, and the one of the cafe.
Yep, lock that iso down at like 200 and use shutter priority to collect enough light. Experiment with it and don’t be afraid to try really long shutter times if you’re using a tripod (10+ seconds). If there is a lot if light it might blow out the shot but just keep playing with the exposure until you get what you want.
And if you don’t have a remote use the camera’s timer to trigger the shutter. Even on a tripod the little movement from pressing the shutter release is enough to lose a little focus. My d40 has a 2 or 10 second timer and the 2 second works great for this. The $3 knockoff remote I bought works even better though.
Yea, I didnt do anything with the iso, I just noticed it was the same for all of them besides the first two. For the first few pictures (not shown) I had it on automatic to see what the camera was metering it at and I think that had something to do with where the iso was set.
I just figured out the timer setting so I’ll try that next time. Link to said remote?
---------- Post added at 11:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ----------
I personally would put the aperature up a bit more and let the shutter do the work on catching more light. You depth of focus is going to be really shallow with those aperatures. It’s not so bad on the garage shots, but and photos where you’re trying to capture objects close to you, as well as objects in the distance, you’re gonna want to crank up the aperature.
This is a really good example:
the railing on the left is REALLY out of focus, and it’s hard to see past the tree, but anything beyond it will start to blur as well. In a photo like this where you’re trying to capture all of the details in the scene (close and far), you need up the aperature.
Also, JayS made a great point to get a remote. But if you don’t have one right now, you can always use your camera timer. Put it on a 10 second timer so that the tripod will settle before the photo is taken.
what would you suggest? I believe 200 is the camera’s ‘natural’ setting. Natural in the sense that the image sensor performs best at that iso (or so I read in a few places online)
200 is exactly what I would suggest. The D40 can get to some decent ISO levels with minimal noise but when you are using a tripod, there’s no reason to hurt the image with that.
The main point is to reduce noise, so 200 might work best for the D40 but not something else. Either way anything under 400 and you probably won’t notice the difference in image quality.
so I would utilize a higher iso to enable the use of a smaller aperature/faster exposure with night photos? (for example to be able to properly expose a shot but not have a street light wash out the image? or not?) From what I am reading you want to use the lowest iso possible to produce the crispest shots (least noise) while still being able to expose the shot. so if I’m running out of aperture or exposure I would bump up the iso to give me a different range of settings to work with?
Pretty much the only reason you would want to bump the ISO would be if you don’t have a tripod, or if you’re trying to shoot something that is moving in low light. A friend of mine has a daughter who’s big time into dance and there is no flash photography allowed. A lot of times the lighting isn’t good enough to get the shutter speed up high enough to get a moving dancer in focus so he has to shoot a higher ISO (or step up to a much more expensive lens).
With a tripod you should always be able to get the proper exposure between shutter speed and aperture when shooting still stuff like you’re doing though.
ISO should only need to change if you having a dynamic subject, or if you want a grainy photo. When I go to sabres games I shoot with 1600 ISO because of the low light and fast moving subjects. If I left my ISO low, there’s no way to get a sharp photo even if I’m at my widest aperture.
