I stuck it in my own rear.
Didn’t put enough electrical in the laundry room.
So now, I have to decide how to proceed. Currently there’s a single line power it… The washer (10a), dryer (7a), and light (~.8a). Provided they’re all on drawing max power… I left the old wiring in place since it was done in the last ~20 years or so to code. It’s only 14ga wire, so I’m stuck with a 15a breaker. Since this is the laundry room, I’m using a GFCI on the first outlet.
My parents are offering up a freezer they used to use… Fairly new, fairly large. I don’t know the draw but it’s more than likely 7-8+. So more on start up.
How would an appliance timer work with the freezer? Good/Bad? I see many reviews for appliance timers and how “great” they are to save energy costs. But how “great” are they for the appliance? Will a timer trip the GFCI?
I’m well aware motors are pretty bad to run on a GFCI because of it falsely tripping the outlet… But if it trips it, it trips it.
I can run a new line, but that won’t be until early next year probably. It’s in a small addition (10x8) with concrete floor, no access from above. So I’d have to run wiring all the way around the room. Easiest way is to just run the wiring when I do siding, since there’s a 99% chance it’s all coming off anyway.
So would an appliance timer be an acceptable short term solution?
Having the timer set to keep the freezer off during hours that I would do Laundry?
It’ll work but I don’t know that I’d use one on a freezer. The whole defrosting and re-freezing of contents may be undesirable. Are there any other circuits nearby that have smaller loads that can be branched off of?
From as far as I can tell, if you pack the freezer full and fill the rest of the space up with 2L bottles full of water the freezer will stay cold for quite some time. We’re talking being off for maybe 4 hours a day. Freezers are normally 0F, so warming all the way up to about 25F (where it gets dangerous) should take longer than that… Don’t forget food stays frozen in a power outage for 2-3 days depending on what it’s full of.
That’s why I’m thinking it won’t be a problem… But I’d rather find someone/some people who actually have done/do it.
Yeah… I know.
It seems either hit or miss… Either it will trip the GFCI or it won’t trip it. I have a battery powered temp alarm I’ll put in it, just in case it does trip the GFCI.
I thought about just taking out the GFCI… don’t exactly NEED it… I can put it back in when I run the dedicated circuit for it.
I’m mainly just worried about the sudden on/off of the freezer if it’s in the middle of a defrost or cooling cycle.
edit;
210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel.
(A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in (1) through (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
(7) Laundry, utility, and wet bar sinks — where the receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink.
It’s not like an inspector is going to randomly knock on your door and inspect your electrical. I’d just take it out. The majority of older homes do not have GFCI on laundry circuits and it’s not like you read of people in the paper dying from doing their laundry everyday. It’s just the code making panel trying to safe guard as much as possible for the public. That’s why they want GFCI on sump pump circuits now too which is retarded. If that thing trips out your basement floods. No thank you. Even the buffalo inspectors make you take them out and put in single receps. They know it’s a stupid rule.