Ask me for stereo help.

[Pewter]

on top of the dash by the red light

[Turbo_Silverado]

sweet. ill be doing that now haha

[imported_Sleeper]

@flyinglow57

i know that they can… ls1 to svt did it to my car before i bought it because it has HID’s and he said that he didnt want the hid’s on all the time.

the ebrake holds on the first click on this car. the DTRL’s im not worried about they are a seperate lightbulb for it. ill just unplug the lights. but the whole dark setting on my head lights suck balls

told u to use resistors,should work out just fine,or else just rewire it in the fusebox itslef.

[amanda776]

PMed you.

[eurodad]

@SleeperGTP

told u to use resistors,should work out just fine,or else just rewire it in the fusebox itslef.

not familiar witj your cars, but my vw all you do is snip the wire at the switch or put tape over the terminal so it won’t contact. took me two minutes

[fshowcars]

@Pewter

anyone >fish ass

[mustang03gt]

Ok, I have a question. My eclipse has an aftermarket stereo in it when I bought it. There are buttons on the back of my steering wheel that dont work…if wired correctly, will it work? Or is there no chance of it working since its not the factory radio? Honestly, I want to find a factory stereo and put it back in. The gts is supposed to have a 6 disc changer, Id rather have that then some special flip front lighted up remote controllin thing. :blue:

[eurodad]

@mustang03gt

Ok, I have a question. My eclipse has an aftermarket stereo in it when I bought it. There are buttons on the back of my steering wheel that dont work…if wired correctly, will it work? Or is there no chance of it working since its not the factory radio? Honestly, I want to find a factory stereo and put it back in. The gts is supposed to have a 6 disc changer, Id rather have that then some special flip front lighted up remote controllin thing. :blue:

it could work but would take someone with skills to take your money… cheaper to get the factory stereo for it if that makes you happy

[mustang03gt]

thanks eurodad!

[F-B-A]

Steering wheel control Module (PAC- SWI-x) Connects to factory wiring below colum, and uses an IR eye to transfer the signal to the aftermarket radio, if the Aftermarket radio is equipt with a remote, buttons/controls are limited, and selective, like for example volume Up could be mute if you so choose to use it that way. Part is less than 80 bucks and install runs aprox. 35. If your vehicle/radio is compatable

[Slowmaro95Z28]

@F-B-A

Steering wheel control Module (PAC- SWI-x) Connects to factory wiring below colum, and uses an IR eye to transfer the signal to the aftermarket radio, if the Aftermarket radio is equipt with a remote, buttons/controls are limited, and selective, like for example volume Up could be mute if you so choose to use it that way. Part is less than 80 bucks and install runs aprox. 35. If your vehicle/radio is compatable

If you can find one of these you’ll be happy with it.

[F-B-A]

^^ the module? if thats what you mean then yes i agree.

I was just pulling your leg with my post, I seriously am happy to see another person on here intrested in 12v. its nice to have some company here as the “minority” (sp)

[eurodad]

@F-B-A

Steering wheel control Module (PAC- SWI-x) Connects to factory wiring below colum, and uses an IR eye to transfer the signal to the aftermarket radio, if the Aftermarket radio is equipt with a remote, buttons/controls are limited, and selective, like for example volume Up could be mute if you so choose to use it that way. Part is less than 80 bucks and install runs aprox. 35. If your vehicle/radio is compatable

when did they come out with them? i’m still all old school. lol

[F-B-A]

As I can remeber this part has been available for sometime now, since the majority oif the newer vehicles have a single wire which exits the steering coloum.

See the wire that exits carries a varity of differant resistances, this part much like the factory radio decodes these resistances, and determinds which function you are selecting, back in the day I belive they sent out a negitive trigger and there were more than 1 wire.

Im pretty old school my self, but thank god for these products with the way these vehicles are changing now a days, can-bus, data-bus, din cables, resistance for door lock and differant resistance for unlock, and negitive starter signal, 680 ohm signal to activate trunk release yadda yadda yadaa is a PITA imo, lol

[Slowmaro95Z28]

Yeah F-B-A, I meant the module. They are simple to install and work pretty good. Oh yeah, I figured you were joking with what you said. I figured since I know about this stuff I might as well offer whatever help I can give. Takes some pressure off you. HAHAHAHA!!!

[starboy]

ok i got one for you. I have a SAAB (beater for the winter). The model I have, only has tweeters in the corners of the dash. BUT I also have a 6.5 i could put in the doors. Now I want to get a cheap componets for the front. So I could have the 6.5 in the door and replace the tweeter. The car has a built in amp. Could I just put the componets in and wire a external amp to it? Or would I have to trace the built in amp (one in the car somewhere) and take it out? Also, what kinda amp should I get for the componets OR do i really even need one?

[Slowmaro95Z28]

This really depends on what you’re looking to get in the long run and what sound you’re looking for. An external amp is the way to go for sound quality but if you’re trying to keep cost down you can easily use the car’s amp. If you go to an external amp you would just have to run the wiring to the speakers like you would any other time. Using the car’s built in amp is pretty straight forward too. You would just use the existing wiring and hook up the new speakers. Do you plan on using the factory head unit or are you going aftermarket?