I still have a can of Arctic White from painting an RC51 for Yetti a while back… if you wanted to spray it right.
Like they said, if the paint is 3-5 mills, and its chipped to primer or metal, to fill it will take a few applications. then you will have to go a bit more, then wetsand and buff.
then hope its the right color. You might not notice it from 5-10 feet away, but anyone with an eye for bodywork will notice it for sure.
The problem with it I see is its simply a single stage paint you are slathering on and half ass’d rubbing off with a glove. then once it flashes for a few secs you use a solvent to remove the shit from the top of the original CLEAR COAT on the car… and some of the shit you just put down on the imperfection. Even buffing it out afterwords might leave it hazy. and the poo you smeared over the OEM clear will be hazy too, unless you cut it all out while buffing.
honestly if the chips are concentrated to the front edge of the hood, blending it and buffing it to level out the clear/overspray from the blended clear application will be a million times better than that.
there are a few little chips on the hood that drive me nuts.
the bigy is my rear passanger side quarter panel. Looks like someone keyed it from one of the previous owners. Its down to the metal and is about 6" long.