i was told to talk to 1 of u guys and see if u either could make me a angled shim for my rear end to help correct my pinion angle…
i got a 4 degree 1 in now and its not big enough at ride hieght my pinion is +2-3 and was told it needs to be -2
guffey
Are you still running leaf springs?
I just spoke to Jeff@1st try. We were thinking that new weld-in leaf perches would be easy to do and the pieces are pretty inexpensive.
What’s your thoughts on this?
that would not be a problem, you can get the shims but, at that angle i would reset the pinion angle. get a new set of perches and have them welded on. not a problem to do if you are still running leaf springs.
whatever u guys think would be the best way, i just need to get this done A.S.A.P. i can’t afford to kill another rear end or driveshaft…
Yes i’m running leafs still, as of right now my setup is a Belltech 5/6 wit hellwig front and rear sway bars - 3" leafs 3" angled blocks + 4 degree angled shim, 3/4" tranny spacer & 1" carrier bearing spacer…
how soon could u do this and about how much would u want to do it?
aight guys i got a ?
would it make a difference if the Angled shim was under or on top of the Drop Blocks ?
Every shim pack I read the instructions for recommend the shim to be placed on the axle’s spring pad side…but these were in lifted applications, not lowered applications.
But, it’s a trapezoid when you look at it from the side view. I’m guessing based on geometry alone that the pinion angle change will result from either position.
uh oh then…i might have goofed then…i got the shim under the Drop Block
I always had my shims under the lowering block.
[QUOTE=jagsthatrun.com]PINION ALIGNMENT SHIMS
The Stealth Conversions pinion alignment shims should be installed directly to the leaf spring with socket head cap screws supplied with the alignment kit.
When installing the shim onto the leaf spring pack, hold the spring pack together with a pair of Vise Grips® or C-clamps before removing the original bolt.
If lowering blocks are used, the alignment shim should be installed on top of the lowering block (see next page). Stealth Conversions Lowering blocks are designed to allow bolting alignment shims on top of the lowering blocks.
QUOTE]
thats were i got my kit from…i just caught that if u use a block it should be on top…damn it !:rant:
DOH! I always had mine under the block too. I only used 2" blocks at the time so it probably wasn’t as drastic of a change as yours. I also don’t have my carrier bearing shimmed.
If Jeff ends up re-doing the spring perches, you could always permanently attach some steel blocks to the axle [perches]. I’ve heard of the nub on blocks shearing off and the block popping out. Just a thought.
i dunno what to do anymore…i just want my truck right for a change and not half assed together like the help i’ve been getting on it from “so called friends”
I’d definitely recommend the weld-in perches with a re-degree of the axle in that case.
with it being like +2-3 degrees do think i’ll be ok untill jeff can setup it up right, its my daily driver
My lifted truck had the wrong pinion angle for a few months and it tore up a pinion bearing and a universal after a long enough time of hammering on it. Was fine after we shim’d it…so it should be OK for a little while.
its only till next week sometime