How do they split the torque in and AWD system? I believe mine is a 60/40 Rear/Front. How would I have to go about changing that. Still I am not sure and cant imagine how you can send different amounts of torque to drive wheels and still have the same gear ratio’s front and rear.
[quote=“BikerFry,post:2,topic:25094"”]
Pull out your front axles. :tup:
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And then change the Quattro badges to Bittro.
Changing your differential is the only way I know of fucking with the bias.
Stasis sells one…$ta$i$.
by the way, do your research…you have Torsen differentials…those are a 2:1 torque delivering ratio. So if you’re making 300 lbs/ft, 200 will go to the rear, 100 to the front. Don’t forget Torsen is the only system that can do side to side differences, too. 
[quote=“articzap,post:4,topic:25094"”]
Isn’t the torque split controlled by clutches or something?
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That’s the haldex system.
[quote=“DarkkstaR,post:6,topic:25094"”]
Changing your differential is the only way I know of fucking with the bias.
Stasis sells one…$ta$i$.
by the way, do your research…you have Torsen differentials…those are a 2:1 torque delivering ratio. So if you’re making 300 lbs/ft, 200 will go to the rear, 100 to the front. Don’t forget Torsen is the only system that can do side to side differences, too. 
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stasis sells hardened ones as well which i reccomend.
also, you have 60/40 front/rear. not the other way around. and thats initial tq bias. all bets are off when there is slippage.
why do you want to change it anyways? you realize with your auto trans things change a bit right?
Stasis’ has a diff that is 3:1 IIRC.
[quote=“DarkkstaR,post:6,topic:25094"”]
by the way, do your research…you have Torsen differentials…those are a 2:1 torque delivering ratio. So if you’re making 300 lbs/ft, 200 will go to the rear, 100 to the front. Don’t forget Torsen is the only system that can do side to side differences, too.
[/quote]
That is not what torque bias in a TORSEN diff represents. 2:1 torque bias represents relative torque available when a wheel begins to lose traction. So lets say the front wheels were only able to sustain 100 ft lbs of torque. Then the rear wheels would have approx 200lb/ft of torque avaibable to them. And it works in both directions.
Initial torque bias is all wheels having equal traction, one set of wheels will receive XX torque and the other set with receive YY torque.
And side to side torque transfer is determined by the front and rear differentials.Where as the front and rear transfer is determined by the center differential. Also, there are many types of differentials that can be used for side to side ransfer, Clutch type, Torsen, Torsen II(helical) Viscous. I’m sure there are others.
word you should totally change it to 10/90 rear/front that would be bad ass…
and why would you want to change it from 40/60? and what would you like to go to?
[quote=“ILCisDEAD,post:12,topic:25094"”]
word you should totally change it to 10/90 rear/front that would be bad ass…
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not as much as you would think. the weight ratio of this car almost makes it a neccesity to have the front wheels driven with more bias.
my car is setup with an rs4 center dif splitting intial tq bias 40/60 f/r. i would like to get a stasis rear dif and then my car will be for the most part balanced imo.
automatic trans are a completly dif story though. there, thats twice that i said it.
YES! Engine ahead of the [front] wheels AND most of the power to the rear!
I want it to handle more like a rear drive, and not plow as much in the turns. But I’m not sure what makes it different with the auto tranny. I would like more power to the rear is what it comes down to.
thats ur susp. setup.
get some good coilovers(macpherson replacements) and play around with your camber/toe setups that will help you achieve your non"plowness".
2-3Degrees of neg. camber up front will resolve that
[quote=“SoloIIscoob,post:16,topic:25094"”]
thats ur susp. setup.
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ding ding ding
-3 degrees front is a bit much for daily driving. The best way to determine camber is to read up on some audi forums and find out what works/what doesn’t. -2F/-1R is a good place to start. Springs/coilovers and swaybars will help too.
And all that should cost a lot less than a new center diff.
o i was just saying 3 for spirited driving(i ran 3 on the auto-x course) and 2 on the street. but 2-3 degrees of camber in the F will make the plow truck feeling go away
however, this is in consideration of drop height and other susp. upgrades you have with the new shocks/struts that will give you best F-R camber/toe/caster. get on some audi forums and check out some auto-x and or track setups.
stasis=pimp. go stasis, you will enjoy them. heard nothing but good things about them for S4s. or i would go check out ohlins.
BTW hey zong! pm’d