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I highly doubt its rusted on. You just need to use better quality tools.
Shoulda went to harbor freight, they have real cheap 3/4" and 1" sets of big sockets.
Or pony up for a compressor, makes life so much easier.
you definitely hammered out the tab on the nut before you did this right? I know it’s a stupid question to some, but I thought I had it hammered out well enough once and went through the same thing. Went back and hammered it out a little more and it came right off.
You mean like the cotter pin? There wasn’t one there from what I remember, although to be honest I didn’t look to closely, I just brought the extension bar and watched Andy break a couple tools…
No, the nut itself is usually hammered in on the edge into a groove that is notched out on the threads
Not a cotter pin. On many axle nuts there is a groove on the axle end and then a received on the nut that once in place gets bent in to secure it.
Yup definitely hammered it out and then some…sears got it done, though they had a hell of a time with it too. Oh well…I prefer doing my own work, but on occasion not having to deal with the frustration is worth a hundred bucks or so…
yeah, for 200 bucks it’s not worth buying 10 different breaker bars and the hours of frustration :tup:
That’s what I thought…glad it worked out.
No offense… but anyone who thinks it is anywhere near cheap for a shop to operate has another thing coming. Between paying the tech, the tools, rent, utilities, insurance, and all of the NYS and federal business related bullshit in general… there is NOTHING of that 80+ left by the time you are done.
If it really was that bad to get off, I would have taken a small dremel or die grinder with a small carbide bit and cut thru the nut where the detent is on the cv joint itself, then taken a chisel and hammer and opened it up enough to pop it off.