best single suspension upgrade

Dude, stop starting shit and give some thought to what you read next time. The guy said putting the bushing INTO the arms only, which is very reasonable timing if you know what you’re doing.

Seems like someone got their panties bunched up in a real hurry…go fuck your conical ball joint seats buddy. If you’re going to bust out z32 upright talk in this thread at least mention how far down in the list that would be for the best single suspension upgrade? You’ve mislead enough people already…I see things haven’t changed with you so much after all…

Here we go…again, and…fuck man again???

Maybe you read it wrong or took the comment wrong.

I stated I installed all the NEW bushings, in under 30 minutes. I did not say that I REMOVED all the old bushings + installed the new ones in 30 minutes.

But regardless… I never used a press to remove the old bushings and I never used a press to install the new bushings.

If you don’t want to believe me that is totally fine since I really do not care. In the end, you stated you cannot do it without a press and I simply said I installed all the new bushings within 30 minutes without a press. So either accept that fact or stop giving out wrong information since you obviously never installed a ES Bushing Kit yourself or you’d know you don’t need a friggin press.

took your advice folks, did the Cusco front and Rear Struts- read is the stlalth inside trunk and the front and Rear Progress ones.

![file:///F:/DCIM/100NCD40/DSC_0022.JPG](file:///F:/DCIM/100NCD40/DSC_0022.JPG)http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll290/zac3ne2nr/Canada%20DaY/DSC_0025.jpg

congrats zac… i’m running progress front and i love it

Hey John, how is yours set up on the front… the furthest position?
How are you end links set up?

Zac

I think the progress sways are the most rare sways for a 240sx.

Not many people have them but are the best.

The endlinks are the biggest factor in the product, and takes a bit of playing around to get to the good spot.

The closer the hole, the stiffer the setup…iirc from my last setup

^ yup closer the hole, stiffer it is.

IIrc progress dont use stock type end links, if you wanted to be badass and get the most out of them, you could make some solid endlink out of male/female heim joints.

That’s exactly what they are, solid ADJUSTABLE.

For true ballers only.

I miss mine.

I guess you could say the same thing in regards to men and women.

its on my s14 now samson lol. too bad i can’t test them out.

holy crap can i bring my car on track and get passed by u lol seriously

this thread is relatively lame with the exception of the people recommending sway bars, I will agree with that

and just so you guys remember - the concept of the adjustable sway bars is that you’re able to adjust the leverage applied to twist the bar, so just remember that when you make the bar shorter by using holes further inwards from the end of the bar you are making it stiffer.

another few rules of thumb:

  • to reduce understeer - soften front bar and/or stiffen rear bar
  • to reduce oversteer - soften rear bar and/or stiffen front bar

alternatively you can also think about it like this:

  • to increase oversteer - soften front bar and/or stiffen rear bar
  • to increase understeer - soften rear bar and/or stiffen front bar

This man speaks the word of JEBUS.

Amen

HAHA:)

tell me something though, the length of the endlink itself, should it be the same as the OEM? Since it’s threaded should I keep it the same lenght as the stock one?

I mounted the link with the wheel on but off the ground so when I lowered it back to the ground the links were not straight anymore but sorta pushing forward.

You need to adjust the endlinks with load on them iirc.

ok dont flame me yet for asking, but how would you go about doing this with load and being able to get under the car to do it and to what length?

Put a jack under the control arm and raise it to level height?

Actually, I’m not even sure now. It’s been so long.

I know i’ve had to adjust them quite a few times.

I adjusted them to OEMish length. Depending on how you install them, the length would differ.

Just make sure theres plenty of correction either way for the spheres to move + and -. They can’t be binding.

the length of the endlinks doesn’t matter too much, you can use adjustable endlinks to put pre-load on the bar but that will only affect the bar for cornering in one direction and it will kill the effect of the swaybar in the opposite direction

if you’re racing stock cars and turning left only this might help you :wink:

In our case the end links dont really do anything more than connect the bar to the suspension so just make sure they’re the same on both sides - if you’re having clearance issues with your exhaust or chassis and the swaybar adjustable links might help get you a bit of extra room but other than that, make sure they’re the same on both sides and that’s that.

done and done… thanks guys!!!

BTW the suspension is soo tight, its so strangely awesome.I did not believe you all.